Search results

If you're looking into a new header as well you can read the review thread. www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=55609 My exhaust had a pretty good tone- but it was not a 'bolt on' deal, it was built when I installed my turbo- so I guess my option doesn't help you much. There are plenty...

Well if you open your harness you should find the wires, there will be no need to splice other wires.

Personally I feel you should. It's more modern, more comfortable, probably cleaner, less components are worn out, it has more power, and more potential. In my opinion.

The redline is different on a GSR. The tach goes higher. It won't make a difference though. Have you checked your fuses? My '93 had a bad "METER SA" fuse ( or something along those lines ) and a few things in my cluster didn't work. I'm not sure if the third gens have any fuses that affect the...

I agree with Dillion. Generally if you're asking if it can be done- you can't do it yourself. Sure it can be done- but it won't just be a bolt on deal. You're better off selling your first gen and buy a second gen.

It looks good and you passed smog. What's the problem? As others mentioned- you could have paid more for a cat. That's not a bad price actually.

255 can be done all day long. Just be sure to not skimp on a good tune or good parts.

I think you need to make a legitimate Facebook account for yourself. (And then add me.) Not that it matters too much, I text you when I need your machine work anyways. :roll:

DAFUQ? You don't need an ITR transmission for a LS/V. The LS transmission "holds up" just as well. The only difference is the gear ratios in the transmissions.. they are pretty much equal as far as strength.

Body kits are only a waste if you don't like it in the end.. who cares what anyone else thinks. This is a very good point. You can download a factory service manual from http://hondahookup.com. You will need to make an account, but it's free and a much better manual then Haynes/ Chilton/...

The harness should be directly above it.. it has to be within reach of it.. so, if you can't find it- it's possibly missing... or you're blind.

Two problems that occur when torquing cam cap bolts: 1.) People misread the torque spec. "81 in/lbs." They think ft/lbs and snap it off. It's roughly 7-8 ft/lbs. 2.) The torque wrench being used can not actually torque that low- therefore they never hear the click and keep going until it...

It sounds like he leaked oil out when he pulled his old radiator and is wondering where to put the new fluid. In which case that would be his automatic transmission.. ...if that is what happened.

That pretty much sums it up though. You can't just "slap it on" as you will have all kinds of issues and probably blow something up in no time whatsoever. Do it right or don't do it at all. Look to spend $1000 or all said and done. (Unless you get a smoking deal on some parts.) It can be done...

Was the ignition ever a problem before this? My guess is that your wires are your issue here.. but it could just be a sticky ignition?

Well the radiator cap should be on when the car is running.. You may have a bent valve, or a bad head gasket- or something to that extent. Any milky oil?

I lurk there as I lurk in this thread, except over there I rarely leave the forced induction/ fabrication forums- and I rarely even log in while doing so haha. I've never had a reason to order from PWJDM.. but I did notice they charge a bit more then other stores.

Yeah, but I don't strip for just anybody. Only your mom. :flipoff:

Here I was all fired up about to troll a noob for making me read that twice. I was about to post that OG had that on FB ages ago. LOL.

I was simply reiterating as he originally was not clear on the point. They simply improved the design by using the valve cover PCV setup. Cleans up the back of the block and does the same thing. :thumbs up