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A compression test won't actually tell you the compression ratio of a motor. It will however tell you the health of your compression rings- which gives you an idea of the health of the whole motor. Assuming it was assembled properly and tuned for the setup it should be fine having only 3000...

:thumbs up

In all honesty- turbocharging a Honda is NOT hard work. You bolt on the manifold, attach a few oil lines, install some new piping and it's on. The hardest part is probably changing the injectors and towing it to the tuner, lol. My conservative estimate is $5000. I can, and have, spent a lot...

I like to take pictures whenever i'm working on my own stuff. It's nice to flip through them and look at where it started and what i've broke through the years. :P

Rockauto.com. I bought the cheapest axle they would sell me and it handles all the abuse I want to throw at it. Lol.

No, actually it's not. There is nothing in the operation of a B18a1 motor that when in good health it should burn a quart of oil in 1,000 miles. It's tired and you have bad oil control rings or valve stem seals if you're burning that much oil. It's probably smoke from all the burning oil. :roll:

It sounds like your current motor could handle that power without issues, assuming it's healthy. Anything 10.5:1 compression or less would probably be ideal. The motor actually sounds like it was built for a low-buck boost build. If you were determined to swap it I would suggest throwing at...

Jackel has been kind enough to make and send me How-To's over the months my activity has slowed down. Hopefully more people chime in besides just you! We need more How-To's. :) There aren't a whole lot of "official" How-To's with step by step and pictures. That's why the How-To list was...

Really? I have no issues when them whatsoever. In fact, I've had them find and fix leaks for free multiple times lol.

Yep. I don't know why you would be "getting on it" when your CV axle is thumping in the first place. Fix your damn axle, lol.

Here, do some research. http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=9553

Pretty much any tire shop on Earth could find the leak for you. Do as TheCrimsonStar suggested or take it to a tire shop.

The horn itself could be bad.. you could check it by running a power wire straight to it. The horn button could be bad. (In the steering wheel.) The wiring somewhere along the line could be bad.

Well shit. Apparently I skimmed past 99% of those posts. Fuckin' noob, what do you think you're doing!?

Unless the valves were really tight- they would be noisey as all hell being loose enough to be causing these issues. Are you 100% positive your spark plugs are in the correct order..? Lol. This is probably a no-brainer, but is it throwing any CEL's? They typically lead you to the cause of...

Hahah. I really don't have a problem with threads being revived to be answered. When someone searches for "brake lights won't turn off" this thread will likely pop up. No one will have an answer- they'll start a new thread and then get trolled for doing so. It's a harsh circle. Oh well. :P

Don't get me wrong, i'm not trying to steer you away. You may be the first one asking about it that has prior knowledge on the topic. It's not often you see people who join saying they want 1000hp- who's done research. Lol. Spawne and Muckman probably have more information on the subject...

I don't log in enough to properly keep up with this discussion- so I will throw some food for thought out there as far as the goals go. What experience do you have with high horsepower cars? A stock Integra goes anywhere from 110-160whp. 300hp is a whole new beast- which is probably faster than...

^ You drive an automatic? Potentially the could be a problem. I've heard of the key being issues in starting on autos before. Luckily five speeds do not have any key-safety features.

One has to admit- you can't argue with that logic. :roll: