ok heres an update
Ok so tonight I went outside in my flippies and socks to finish up the ABS delete. I picked up the 2 RS front brake lines from honda that cost about fifty bucks. As it turned out all I really neded to buy was the passenger side line, I could have reused the driver side by just cutting it shorter and putting a bend in it. Ohh well. It was only like six dollars so it was worth it. Other than the one thats all I had to buy. A friend gave me the Prop valve, Thanx Joey, and I used the stock booster and MC from my LS. Heres the pics.
start with bleeding the system
pulling the ABS
heres the lines and prop valve from a CRX
heres the passenger line its the easy one
heres the driver side its kinda tough to run just right
heres the prop valve in place
heres me making the lines with the flaring tool
heres how I made my bends
here it is a hooked up
ok so thats it for tonight ill bleed it all tomorrow and see if it worked.
I think itll look alot better when the motor is back in. Itll look alot cleaner without that big black wart on the firewwall. WE bled the system last night and it worked great/
Uhhh I didnt even think about it. I mounted all the lines and then mounted the prop valve then hooked them all up. I just had to make sure not to cross thread them. I had to get the angle just right of course to thread them in. It was real easy. The hardest part of the whole project was getting the lines through the wheel well and threaded onto the brakes. Even that part wasnt real tough.
If you wanted to be real cheap you dont have to buy any lines. Just reuse the old ones. The only one youll have to make from scracth is the passenger front line even then there is a line that runs right by the hole going into the wheel well. Its pretty easy just not as factory looking. What Prop valve you using?
Ok so heres an update. Im trying to get everything in the engine bay squared away before the motor cames back.
time to get the nitrous set up. Here we go.
setting up the Silanoid location
the lines ran in the fender and wiper area
and a test purge it works w no leaks
now its time to do the wiring and set the fuel silanoid in place