I believe itll be done by the end of the month. Maybe the end of the week if I get the motor tomorrow and were expecting rain so I wont be able to go to work. Darn ill have to work on my car!!!
Here ya go folks it another update on the progress of my big shot nitrous set up. It was pretty tough to come up with a clean way to set it all up.
Heres the Purge and Nitrous Silanoids mounted where the Abs used to be. I ran all the wires through the fender cavity and into the cabin near the wires going into the door. If you look hard at your teggy there is tons of room to hide wires and stuff.
And heres the fuel silanoid mounted right next to the fuel filter mounted nicely to a factory hole.
Here we go again with assembling the ls vtec. I had a local machine shop that specializes in Hondas fix the bottom end after my lack of oil pressure on the last build. The Eagle crank had to be turned. The New head and block got machined. I had them install all the new internals this time. Just FYI Im running the lightned balanced eagle crank and rods w/Arias pistons and rings, and clevite bearrings.
Heres the bottom end all assembled with new GSR oil pump. Im not taking any chances.
heres my head and makeshift work area.
Bolted up the flywheel after checking all the tourqe specks on the rear main seal
No I didnt have it resurfaced maybe I should have I dunno no one said it was nessasary but I mase sure to clean it and the pressure plate.
using the clutch alignment tool to line up the clutch
and bolting up the pressure plate
now its time for the oil pick up and sheild. I made sure to clean the heck out of them after spinning a bearing and replaced the pick up gasket
now I set the oil pan gasket into place and dropped on the pan after cleaning the heck out of it
Heres it all bolted down
Now its time to pick that bugger up and set it on the ground to line up the transmission. I used the 2X4 to level the motor for the trans to slide in place easier
Once the trans is bolted on its all pretty easy from here like bolting the new water pump and thermostat on
heres the golden eagle conversion adapter and that weird box that I dont know what its called.
so far thats it im gonna go back outside in a min and get it ready to drop in place. Il update later if anyone sees anyhthing they would have done different or that I missed feel free to comment.
After you torque all your accesories on and then torque the head on, you should loosen the main bearings and re-torque them. Because torquing all those accsesories and head on will distort the block a little. Or something like that. All I know is thats the procedure. Just an FYI
heres the slightly modified tensioner and alt bracket etc
alright this is the part I like droppin her in
transmission side goes in first I put in the mount bolt and let the motor pivot down
and lower the driver side mount into its cradle it takes a little twisting to get the bolts to thread
heres the biggest pain in my rear I hate this bracket it can be a bear but in my case with no head or intake manifold it was pretty easy
here it is in place it takes rocking the motor a bit but it went in fine
heres the alternator rebuilt and painted like the starter and my valve cover. I also switched to a wiks oil filter. The guys at Eagle sugested against a fram filter. This one is black so im gonna try it
Ok so ill do some more tomorrow and update it some more. Comments welcome
heres the ac compressor going back in. It gets hot in Fl so I opted to keep it
And the lower motor mounts
if your keping your ac like me dont forget to put the ac belt around the driver side lower mount
ok time to reinstall the axles
the driver side it a bit harder due to it being longer and has this braket its still not hard just heavier
for some reason I allways wait to put the flywheel inspection plate and transmission to block bracket till after the motors in the car I dunno why.
Ok now to reattach the shift linkage. This pin can be insanely hard to remove without the right tools
Heres what I found works for getting that pin out. I didnt want to go out and buy a punch so I found a bolt in my box thats just a hair smaller than the pin. Then get the old hammer out and tap that bugger out. I can take some stout tapping.
once the pin is back in put the retainer thingy back in place and rotate it so the pin is captured
alright as usual comments are welcome Ill go back out after lunch
ok so heres some more progress. I kinda got lazy with the pics cause all this stuff should be pretty easy and self explanitory.
Heres the intake mani gettin tourqued down. I already transferred all the misc components like V tec silanoid and oil fittings.
heres the head gasket copper coated with the dowel pins in place
gotta snug up the new gsr head bolts and tourqe them down in the proper order. My wife suprised me this morning with a brand new crafstman torque wrench and speed wrench
getting the wiring harness in place
my freshly painted valve cover ready for some artwork
gettin the cams and cam caps set in place
I know it sounds silly bit this took hours to get ran just right. It started its life as a LS Cold air intake. Then I used it as a gsr short ram and now its this. Im still not sure if I like it whaddya think?
here it is almost finished with my old black valve cover. ANd the header bolted in place. Thanx Ashley for bolting it on.
Well its up and running. I finnaly got the balls to crank it up this morning. It started right up and runs great. I have what I think is a tap comming from the head closest to the Distributor. Im not sure if its the way it should sound or if something is a little out of adjustment? Other than that it idles perfectly and is holding oil pressure
As for the dyno question... Yeah I will sooner or later. For now im going to take it to be tuned. I have a Chrome chipped P72 ecu that I want tuned perfectly. After the tuning I might take it to a Dyno day that is suposed to be close by in April. The only problem is that its 60 dollars just for 2 or 3 pulls no tuning. I think id rather wait a while till I can pay for some real tuning time on the dyno.