Thats all fine for you guys who daily and thats it. This car will be doing 9k+ rpm for 20 minutes at a time. Not going to trust that to autozone dizzy. They work, never said they didnt, but the fail fast, especially when you track.
lol bro I beat my car like a redheaded step child daily at 24psi and 9k+, daily it to and from work, and the whole nine. Say what you will, but I can assure you my motor goes through way more hell regularly than yours does. I didn't say to use an Autozone dizzy, just the internal parts from reputable companies. To each their own!
Finally got around to posting my video from the event on the 9th. I only got 1 session before the GoPro started saying "NO SD". Still trying to fix that issue..
Here some more footage from that first session. Notice how it sounds like I am barely on the gas..in reality I was flooring it, but it just didn't do anything. And of course I go off at the end.
What we ended up doing was putting in +1mm oversize intake valves. We also upgraded the exhaust valves to stainless steel though to better handle the heat, because the OEM ones were getting rocked by the heat. After we decided on what valves to use, Phil worked his magic.
Phil was actually able to get the oversize valves to be lighter than my old valves. My old valves were dished out(lightened) OEM valves, which makes it amazing. He did this by actually making his own valves from blanks made by SI valves. He then dished them out as well and balanced them all as well. Then he backcut the valves and radiased the seats.
The bog was happening before all of the changes. Also, it was pinpointed already. My distributor had been going out and it finally died. I didn't suspect dizzy at first though, because I just got it last year from HMO.
Question though, why would you think oversize valves would cause a bog?
The car is tuned properly. I assure you. It ran really well on the dyno as well, but for some reason at the track the dizzy would mess up, until it finally died.
The car is running well, but I have a china dizzy on. Going to rebuild the OEM one with new OEM parts.
I installed the brand new OEM coil today and the car started right up! The old coil actually had burn marks all over it. I was all happy...until I went to back it out of the driveway. The tach started going bananas again. Swapped back to china dizzy and tach is fine. So it looks like the igniter is bad as well officially. I didn't know it was possible to kill both the coil and the igniter in the same day. Awesome! Hopefully with a new igniter it will run a lot better and no longer have the power cut/hesitation/wild tach issues. I wonder why the dizzy didn't act up during the tune though. It probably had something to do with the heat generated during a track session, because it rarely had the issues outside of a track day. They did have trouble setting the timing to where they wanted during tune though, because it was kind of jumping around...
After installing the new OEM coil the car started and I thought I might get lucky, but it was not meant to be. Ended up having to open the dizzy back up and swap out the ignitor. Thanks to Tom Attack and his collection of random parts for saving me a lot of money on an ignitor! Threw in one he had and the car runs solid again. The idle issue is fixed and the power cut appears to be gone. However, I will not call it confirmed until I do a track day without the power issues. It is looking good so far though.
Finally got around to swapping out the breather box as well. The one that was on the car was off an unknown block, but after having it off the car it looks like the B16 one.
Here are some pictures with a comparison of the P72 breather and the unknown assumingly B16 can. The one with all the caked on RTV sealer is the old one.
There really doesn't appear to be that much of a difference with the two. The main issue is the grommets on the top of the box. The GSR has 1 larger grommet to fit the PCV directly on the box.
This meant a PCV had to be drilled out in order for it to work as a fitting.
It was impossible to tell how different the cans were on the inside, but I am guessing that they have the same baffles. This is also still untested to see if it fixed the catch can overflow issue, but it is doubtful. For the mean time I will be sticking with the dual catch can set up. The smaller vented one will stay attached to the valve cover. The breather box is ran to a 1 quart oil bottle and mounted as high as possible roughly 3 feet away from the block. I am hoping the added height and distance of the bottle will help too. It was just too much oil coming out to have been blowby. If this does not work it will be time to try porting and baffling the valve cover.
In other news a situation presented itself to me that could not be passed up that enabled me to offset the cost of buying these:
I had been wanting the ASR LCA since I first saw them on the market. They are ideal because of how the swaybar endlinks mount to it. They have a lower mounting point which allows the swaybar to achieve a more ideal geometry. More will be posted after they are installed.
The ASR LCA have not been put on yet. It was tight on time trying to the car ready for Spring Mountain this weekend. The DC2 is ready to rock it in Vegas this weekend though.
I took the transmission off and gave it to Tom Attack to get rebuilt, because finding a 96 spec ITR trans proved harder then was initially planned. Tom came through better than I could have possibly imagined. Guys like him are why this hobby is so awesome. Thanks man!
The only thing that was kept from the old trans was the case basically. The new set up is as follows:
Fresh ITR Gear stack and other internals
LS 2nd Gear to make second more usable
B17 5th Gear
Synchrotech Carbon Syncros
GearX Helical 4.9 Final Drive
Quaife LSD
Huge thanks to Tom and the guys over at synchrotech for a speedy turn around and an awesome transmission. I could not have asked for a better experience. And to show my support I slapped their logo on the car.
To go along with the new transmission it was time to get some new engine mounts.
Tom hooked it up with some black Hasports with U88A Extreme Race inserts. No more motor slop.
The rear brakes also had to be changed. Hawk HPS rear pads were chosen, because the rears do not need to be too insane. Even my old OE Monroe ceramics held up fine for a long time. The ATE super blue brake fluid was also flushed out and Motul RBF 600 was put in.
