The Forced Induction Thread - Boost Whores Get In Here!

Tam4511

CI BOOST FIEND
It has nothing to do with psi, it's hp that kills motors. Different turbos put out different horsepower. In general a healthy motor can reliably handle up to 300hp. On most setup when people run 10psi on a .50-.60 t3/t4 they make from 250-280hp.
 

AlexD

J13 sooo mad
Accel.speed said:
Ok i dont want to argue, just asking questions.. lol Havent boosted yet but I plan on it hopefully when i get back from basic and AIT.

But so why have I heard that its safe for a stock engine to run 6 to 8 lbs all day long. And that if you go higher to say 15 or 20, some parts on your engine might blow? Say im running 8 lbs and only drive it up to 4k rpms daily. (so saying im not beating the s*** out of it). And then i turn it up to 16 lbs. Im trying to understand this but wouldnt parts on you engine blow or give out if you turn up the boost even if you dont drive it hard?

Ok wait, (remembering other part of thread lol) so its not the air that may break the motor, its the pressure of the engine? no i dont think so.... ah help lol.
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PSI doesnt matter because it is not universal in terms of how much power each pound per square inch of pressure each turbo creates.

If you take a bone stock D15 and add a turbocharger system on it, why is it ok to say 6-8lbs is ok to run all day long when you have this turbo



and this turbo



would you believe for a second that these two turbochargers at "6-8lbs" will both make the same type of horsepower and torque?


Im going to say that the second turbo at 8lbs will probably be more prone to making the engine blow up than the first one wouldnt you say? Because the power @ 8lbs vs the 14b turbo is much greater because the second turbo flows more cfm than the first.

hope I cleared it up a little more.
 

Str8Boostin

Sleeper
The guys above covered your question regarding different PSI/turbo's and such.

One thing I'll throw in is you can't just go out and turn up boost and expect it to NOT blow up because guess what? You haven't tuned your vehicle at all for that amount of boost (the higher #).

If your A/F ratios are at 11.2 (or whatever is 'perfect' for you guys) @7psi on a T3/T4 and you suddenly turn up your boost (on that same turbo) to 11psi or more, you're going to severely lean out your car's A/F ratio. Going too lean will blow your motor.
 

AlexD

J13 sooo mad
11.8 is the ideal AFR for pump gas
 


Str8Boostin

Sleeper
AlexD said:
11.8 is the ideal AFR for pump gas
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Yeah, 11.8-12.0 here. I only gave 11.2 as an example cause that's what a local said maybe a few months back about an EG Hatch.

Anyway, that guy needs a tune. Don't just slap on a turbo and call it a day. Do some homework as well.
 

Accel.speed

basically, i like fast!
Hmm so im trying to figure out what exactly blows the engine or whe\atever part gives... Is it like theres too much friction? Parts are moving too fast with the new power? Parts cant handle the more pressure? Thats really my question.

So how did you guys learn all this stuff? Im almost 18 and really want to go boost but i know i need to learn more...
 


AlexD

J13 sooo mad
The resulting power from your setup blows your motor. Your sleeves cant handle the stress, or stock rods, pistons etc.

You have to remember these engines were not designed for an FI application.
 

90tegwhite

Keep Droolin' Im Spoolin'
VERY good information here.... planning on boosting the ol 90 teg... owned an 89 boosted civic dx... d16y7 PROPERLY tuned to run at 8psi .. crome tuning.. STOCK everything had no problems what so ever!! car would dangle too i don't advise this at all but i had that car up to 245km/h on the street racing an srt8 challenger and out ran him... atleast now i know the tuners here when i need information! are these ebay kits worth the time? something like this?? http://cgi.ebay.ca/90-93-Integra-1-8L-B18-B16-Cast-Iron-T3-T3-T4-Turbo-Kit-/180585887199?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0bc1f5df
 
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Tam4511

CI BOOST FIEND
the way i see ebay kits are as a short cut, or a temporary thing. They will work, but not for long. Its really just better to save your money and piece together a kit. you can get used good turbos for a decent price (<$500), they only thing worth a shit in that kit is the downpipe and maybe the manifold.

I sold my Ebay turbo and am buying a garret from my friend.

Don't get me wrong, if you do it right and get a good tune, and use a oil restrictor, you can run it for a while. Its just why buy something that you know you'll need to replace eventually?
 

90tegwhite

Keep Droolin' Im Spoolin'
i pretty much figured as much.... and i pretty much want to build the engine get the turbo set up tune it and be set... so im not doing huge f*ck arounds only minor stuff... upkeep and maintence... id like to be able the hit a red light and have a challenger or a vette or something looking at me when i revv her out a bit and just laugh then when the light hits green i can smoke him... pretty much all im looking for... 350 whp would be sick... my civic started spooling at about 3000 rpm which was nice only had 8psi.. so question... whats better cast manifold or stainless something like ramshorn? ALSO just got a garrett TO4E lined up for 250... good deal? good turbo? another question... internal wastegate or external?
 
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Tam4511

CI BOOST FIEND
90tegwhite said:
i pretty much figured as much.... and i pretty much want to build the engine get the turbo set up tune it and be set... so im not doing huge f*ck arounds only minor stuff... upkeep and maintence... id like to be able the hit a red light and have a challenger or a vette or something looking at me when i revv her out a bit and just laugh then when the light hits green i can smoke him... pretty much all im looking for... 350 whp would be sick... my civic started spooling at about 3000 rpm which was nice only had 8psi.. so question... whats better cast manifold or stainless something like ramshorn? ALSO just got a garrett TO4E lined up for 250... good deal? good turbo? another question... internal wastegate or external?
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what trim is the garret? .50 trim t3/t4 is the best for that range (which is what im getting) and my power goal is 350 for now but i fully built my block.

if you do it right you could make that much on a stock motor if its healthy. I suggest getting a compression and leakdown test done to see what you have to work with.
 

90tegwhite

Keep Droolin' Im Spoolin'
.70 trim and my engine is definatly tired... burns a little oil... so im gonna fully build the engine... due to reliability i want the car to not have problems in the future and being FORCED to build it when i dont have the money... so im gonna stockpile the parts and when its all there ill tear down the engine... is 2.5 exhaust good for turbo or do i have to go 3?
 
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