RIP "blue" v.2.0 (MASSIVE BUILD TO COME)

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
Won't start...

tried two different starters (the LS which is KNOWN to work fine). Took both off, jumped them using a battery, and both worked. though, when I turn the key, the starter barely clicks. on either one. sometimes it does. sometimes it doesn't. I'm stumped. Ideas?

The LS starter seems to spin better than the GS-R starter, too. It spins faster and with more velocity behind it. The GS-R seems kind of weak, but it does physically work.
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
IT'S ALIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIVE!!!!!!!!!!!

Added an additional ground from the battery to the transmission (didn't have one in the first place. that's what happens when I'm rushing and working on just 2.5 hours of sleep).

Started up fine. It hesitated a little bit. The first start up was a little slow, but when it finally started running, it was running great.

I DO have a CEL. not sure what it's for, as it was too dark to try and diagnose. I'm almost positive that it's the knock sensor that I broke. Will try and confirm tomorrow.

Here is the BIGGEST killer for me, though. I have no VTEC :(

A quick diagnosis and first impressions while driving, the throttle felt kind of loose, and upon visual inspection, the throttle cable has a LOT of slack in it. So, it seems (and sounds) like its not going full throttle. No full throttle = no vtec. Gonna try to tighten up the cable a bit (slowly but surely), and see if that does it. If not, I'll break out the multimeter and start diagnosing stuff right away. Will the IABs only open at wide open throttle, too? Because it doesn't sound like they're opening up either.
 


8urcivic

ONLY couches pull out!!!!
you dont need to be full throttle to engage vtec. you have to have enough oil pressure to triiger the solenoid.


id check all your wiring
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
check my facebook status :(

hard for the ECU to send a signal to the solenoid when the wire isn't plugged in all the way.



...


owned.

resetting ECU as we speak. *fingers crossed*
 


imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
no VTEC.

did a pull, hit 6500 rpm and it hit a rev limiter...

brought home, checked codes...

now, its throwing a code 22 (VTEC Oil Pressure Switch) and Code 20. No longer throwing code 21, so THAT'S taken care of. For whatever reason, its not throwing a CEL for knock, though.. (Code 23)

ideas?
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
Well, I have it wired up, per the diagram with the Rywire harness, so I know all the wiring is correct. I just get no activity from them. Wondering if its vacuum related, though I'm not getting any issues from the MAP sensor. hmmm...

I'll work on it another time. Got the MAIN thing I was worried about taken care of. Will try and figure out the IABs on my next day off of work.

Mine is also OBD1, so the wiring from the IAB solenoid was (if I recall) a one wire affair. Only a 12 volt with no ground. i could be mistaken. I just know that I wired it up exactly the way the instructions on Rywire's site said to for OBD1 swaps.
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
nope.

I hear the VTEC at 4300-4400, but no sound at 5500. I read that the IABs are OPEN if the engine is off, but as soon as the motor is running and vacuum is provided, that they close. Then, at the right RPM, the ECU sends a signal to the solenoid, vacuum is killed to the IAB valve and they reopen. On or off, the lever on the valve (which is mounted on the drivers side of the engine bay) doesn't move at all.

Engine off - lever is sitting still
Engine on - lever doesn't move
rev to 6000+ (just to make sure I cross the RPM threshold) - lever still doesn't move.

I'm wondering if the IAB solenoid is bad, or if the IAB valve is bad/not getting the right amount of vacuum...
 
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