R13's 97 Gs-r Build thread

95B18BTurbo

New Member
Basically here is how a quick down and dirty for ARP headstuds install without issues. Clean threads in block. Coat the part of the stud threads that goes into the block with regular10w-30. Tighten the studs into the block to 10 ft.lbs., not hand tight. Then clean the blocks deck, install the clean gasket, and clean head. Coat the washers with ARP moly lube and put those in, followed by coating the nuts and putting them on. Torque the nuts down to 20 ftlbs in sequence, then 40, then 60, and finally 80 ft.lbs. If you do this every time as I have, you should have no issues what so ever even at 24psi my head has yet to lift after 11K+ miles of abuse and daily boost.

DO NOT REUSE OEM's head bolts! They are torque to yield bolts which means they can only be used once! After that they are garbage!
 
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R13

The other asshole
Ladies and Gentlemen, It is alive! and running smooth as a kitten.

Two small issues though, I think one of my cam gears got loose because it was making a ticking noise, Not like valve ticking though it was a little clunkier but I didn't drive it so no need to s*** yourselves about jumping time or anything.

And the top rad hose was sucking itself shut, However it was only about half or less full of coolant because it was 30~ degrees, I wanted it to warm up faster so the headgasket would set in well, hopefully once I fill it up that stops.

No pics as I barely finished in time to go pick up my gf but I will get some soon as well as make a video with the before and after idle.
 
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R13

The other asshole
Yeah hah, It wouldn't have taken near as long if not for being busy with work and what not, Probably would've taken around 20 days with the gasket failure, Delivery times and all that.
 

95B18BTurbo

New Member
Congrats! Definitely double check the torque on the cam gear bolts and get that coolant topped off!
 


MiketheDyke

My job is clean toilets
Nice work! I remember the first time I drive my teg after 6 months. It's a good feeling haha

Sent from my phone
 

Nick_C78

New Member
When you fill it up with coolant I recommend bleeding it. The way I do it is I put the front of the car on jack stands, remove rad cap, and let the car run until it stops bubbling(This has taken 30 minutes before. So be Patient). Top it off as needed and then you should be good to go. And what did you torque the cam gears too?
 

R13

The other asshole
Thanks will do.

Specs say 27ft lbs so That's what I went with, May not have been tight enough idk, I gotta take the vc back off to source it, As is I'm not even sure it is the cam gear but I'm hoping it's that simple.
 

R13

The other asshole
Lol, Probably the issue right there, I looked it up on HT and then called the honda dealership and that's what they said but I have seen a few people say 40 as well, Reason I went with 27 was because I snapped the cam gear bolt on my old civic with a standard 3/8 ratched so I assumed the bolts weren't tough enough for anything much higher, I may test the waters on 40 unless anyone can find proof it's 27, My service manual doesn't have cam gear specs listed.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
I have all of the specs I use written down in my garage...but my garage is 100 miles away. But 27 seems rather low to me. Hell isn't the oil drain plug like 30? lol

Wish I had the exact specs for you...it could be 27, but that just seems low.
 

dlo253

Active Member
I will try to remember to take a look in my books when I get home. I don't recall the numbers for that..
 
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