95B18BTurbo
New Member
I always make sure the block is perfectly straight and stupid clean and the head always will be milled to ensure flatness for a proper seal if it comes off. I am anal retentive as a mofo though!
Nick_C78
New Member
Every time you mill the head you change the timing ever so slightly. Thus the accuracy of the timing marks goes down each time. Being anal is good, but there is a such thing as too much machining. Resurfacing the head and decking the block should be done as little as possible.
Kurt, Something went wrong with the seal if you see THAT much leaking down the side that it pools off. Take it apart ASAP. Also, if the oil and coolant are mixing, Do not start the motor again. You are going to wreck your bearings if you keep starting it like that.
95B18BTurbo
New Member
Thus the reason the head doesn't come off after it's put on! I do it right the first time! I realize the importance of the timing, P2V, and V2V clearances. The only reason my head would come off is if something hard broke, and OEM Honda gaskets/ARP headstuds is the only way to go in my book.
OP, definitely rip that head back off and check it all out. Did you reinstall the head dowels upon reassembly?
R13
The other asshole
Hello captain stubing how are gopher and doc.
Oh! Is that liquefaction I see?
Well, It would seem, when introduced to heat the substance turned to liquid *Record needle drop* What? Fuck this I'm going home.
Now I wonder why there was so much sludge in cylinder 1, I cleaned those pistons before putting the head back on, Not to mention, That seems like an excessive amount of carbon build up for only a total of 20 minutes of run time since I put it together.
And also get this shit... There is no oil in the coolant or vice versa but there's oil in the cylinders, The machine shop was given the oem valve seals and were to handle that, I checked the head and block with a straight edge they're both good but something's fucked here, The headgasket didn't seal but that leave another question, How the fuck is there oil in the cylinder and not in the coolant and what did that shop f*** up?
Oh! Is that liquefaction I see?
Well, It would seem, when introduced to heat the substance turned to liquid *Record needle drop* What? Fuck this I'm going home.
Now I wonder why there was so much sludge in cylinder 1, I cleaned those pistons before putting the head back on, Not to mention, That seems like an excessive amount of carbon build up for only a total of 20 minutes of run time since I put it together.
And also get this shit... There is no oil in the coolant or vice versa but there's oil in the cylinders, The machine shop was given the oem valve seals and were to handle that, I checked the head and block with a straight edge they're both good but something's fucked here, The headgasket didn't seal but that leave another question, How the fuck is there oil in the cylinder and not in the coolant and what did that shop f*** up?
95B18BTurbo
New Member
It's possible they could have messed up one of the seals while installing them, and it doesn't take long for carbon to build up when oil is burning like it was. I'm wondering also if your rings are cracked on the number 1 now too. Also what did you use to bolt the head down?
Is that RTV sealant or more copper shit on top where the valvecover meets too?
Is that RTV sealant or more copper shit on top where the valvecover meets too?
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R13
The other asshole
Another quote from vip.
Honestly from the looks it seems like it could be a simple as the head gasket but things don't add up, The exhaust port on #3 had oil in it, Add that with everything else something is off, The head gasket didn't seal at all but i never ran it long enough for the thermostat to open and it was about 3 liters low on coolant (It didn't over heat don't worry) so maybe that's why the oil isn't milky, I haven't checked the head out fully as I just took the night off since I got it torn down so I'll find out if anythings wrong over the next couple days
Edit: Rtv, I know honda bond is recommended but I replaced my oil pan gasket and used that last year and it held up good so I trust it, It's just... Messy.
I did a compression test and it came up 190 across all 4 give or take 2psi, Would it be that close if the rings were cracked?
Honestly from the looks it seems like it could be a simple as the head gasket but things don't add up, The exhaust port on #3 had oil in it, Add that with everything else something is off, The head gasket didn't seal at all but i never ran it long enough for the thermostat to open and it was about 3 liters low on coolant (It didn't over heat don't worry) so maybe that's why the oil isn't milky, I haven't checked the head out fully as I just took the night off since I got it torn down so I'll find out if anythings wrong over the next couple days
Edit: Rtv, I know honda bond is recommended but I replaced my oil pan gasket and used that last year and it held up good so I trust it, It's just... Messy.
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R13
The other asshole
I'll be checking the head out thoroughly over the next few days, If it is a valve I hope the machine shop is willing to correct their mistake.
It certainly doesn't look good for the valves that's for sure.