I'm redoing my stereo setup *July Update*
- Thread starter TegSox
- Start date
TegSox
Super Duper Moderator
All done
Stinger cooling fan.
I put these cool little 1/4 inch tall spacers under the amp to lift it up off the panel so the fan can blow across the bottom of it. I used to use soft rubber grommets before I found these, they were a pain in the butt cuz they flexed, these solid spacers are so much easier to work with.
I'll have pics of everything in the car soon. I've had it all in once already to check fitment, and it all drops in awesome! Everythings coming together as planned, last step is to just wire it all up. Of course, all the wire is already run in the car from the previous setup, so the hard part is done already....just the fun part left :headbang:
Stinger cooling fan.
I put these cool little 1/4 inch tall spacers under the amp to lift it up off the panel so the fan can blow across the bottom of it. I used to use soft rubber grommets before I found these, they were a pain in the butt cuz they flexed, these solid spacers are so much easier to work with.
I'll have pics of everything in the car soon. I've had it all in once already to check fitment, and it all drops in awesome! Everythings coming together as planned, last step is to just wire it all up. Of course, all the wire is already run in the car from the previous setup, so the hard part is done already....just the fun part left :headbang:
JDMB18civic
New Member
thats going to be tight when its done
DailyDB8
>>>Honda Enthusiast<<<
VERY NICE :thumbs up... looks like imma have to steal your idea with the fan and using the spacers. the panels looks professionally done and lots of thought and custom work went into it. and do i have to mention the fatty wires? :lol:
i'm also curious on what the distribution blocks do exactly? distrubtes the power evenly?
also, i have a question.... i have my 300/4 JL hooked up to infinity reference components up front and reference 3-ways in the rear... the amp gets really hot... and kinda sucks up a lot of power... and i'm suprised my lights actually dim @ a cerntain point and thats w/o the sub hooked up... the question is.... should i be worried? should i re-tune the amp? kinda thinkin about using your fan idea to help it cool down. iono... one time i "bumped" too loud and my 500/1 JL shutoff.... freaked me out cause i thought it blew... i jus don't want my JL's to blow.
i'm also curious on what the distribution blocks do exactly? distrubtes the power evenly?
also, i have a question.... i have my 300/4 JL hooked up to infinity reference components up front and reference 3-ways in the rear... the amp gets really hot... and kinda sucks up a lot of power... and i'm suprised my lights actually dim @ a cerntain point and thats w/o the sub hooked up... the question is.... should i be worried? should i re-tune the amp? kinda thinkin about using your fan idea to help it cool down. iono... one time i "bumped" too loud and my 500/1 JL shutoff.... freaked me out cause i thought it blew... i jus don't want my JL's to blow.
RedIntegraGSR
New Member
Cant wait to see it complete
TegSox
Super Duper Moderator
Yeah, this setup doesn't really need 0 guage, but fuck it. It's already run through the car, these dirstibution blocks are made for 0 guage, and their really nice expensive blocks too. Distribution blocks are good to use for multi amp systems because you want to ground all the amps at the same point. And to have all the grounds meet at the block, then send a single wire out of the block to the car, you use a little less ground wire. Plus they just look good.SilverDB8 said:
About your JL 300/4, I'm assuming those component set speakers are all 4 ohm right? If their less than 4 ohm, the amp will run hotter and its normal. Or maybe the amp has a poor ground. Does it have adequate ventilation, is there space around the amp for heat to dissipate? Does the amp have an internal fan(s)?
You 500/1 probably went into protection when it shut off. Most decent amps nowadays have "protection circuitry" that can sense when a speaker is clipping, and it cuts off the signal temporarily to protect the speakers from blowing. A speaker will clip when you try and play it louder than the amp has the power to make it play. Turn down your gain a bit, or if the amp has bass boost, try turning that down first. Just keep turning things down little by little until the amp stops going into protection. Going into protection is a hint from the amp to "lay off the volume knob, buddy!"
TegSox
Super Duper Moderator
I snapped off a few pics before my camera died.
I'll get some better ones soon.
I needed to cut some new plates for my front mids.
The old ones got wet and expanded, one of them was even growing mold, it was nasty. I coated these new ones with this stuff called Kilz to keep that from happening again.
I'll get some better ones soon.
I needed to cut some new plates for my front mids.
The old ones got wet and expanded, one of them was even growing mold, it was nasty. I coated these new ones with this stuff called Kilz to keep that from happening again.
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DailyDB8
>>>Honda Enthusiast<<<
looks good :thumbs up... i thought you made them panels to lay them flat... almost like a display.
and oh yea... i really do need to lay low with my vol. knob too... the mono block been shuttin down on my a couple times this week... i guess i really like the tweets and clairity too much.... might even remove the sub or retune my settings. iono its just when you hear the right track... you gotta put it on blast!... lol
and oh yea... i really do need to lay low with my vol. knob too... the mono block been shuttin down on my a couple times this week... i guess i really like the tweets and clairity too much.... might even remove the sub or retune my settings. iono its just when you hear the right track... you gotta put it on blast!... lol
TegSox
Super Duper Moderator
Got the mids back in with their new plates now.
Done a little Dynamat action:
I still haven't even tuned everything yet, it's gonna take like an hour and it's been too damn hot and humid out, plus I don't wanna hear any shit from my miserable asshole of a neighbor (who happens to be the landlord's brother) about the loud music. I can't even tell when he's not home because he owns like 5 vehicles (all Ford's, dumbfuck redneck).
But everything's sounding great, I just need to set the gains exactly right so all the speakers play at the same volume and max out together. Then do a little crossover manipulation on the sub, it's playing the upper bass a bit too loud for my taste, and turn up the lower end bass with the cool Q-Bass feature the amp has. And adjust the Phoenix Gold EQ for the highs. I'ma do all that on Thursday when I'm up at my mom's house, going up there for a yummy pork chop birthday dinner (that's right Brent, I dig on swine!).
Done a little Dynamat action:
I still haven't even tuned everything yet, it's gonna take like an hour and it's been too damn hot and humid out, plus I don't wanna hear any shit from my miserable asshole of a neighbor (who happens to be the landlord's brother) about the loud music. I can't even tell when he's not home because he owns like 5 vehicles (all Ford's, dumbfuck redneck).
But everything's sounding great, I just need to set the gains exactly right so all the speakers play at the same volume and max out together. Then do a little crossover manipulation on the sub, it's playing the upper bass a bit too loud for my taste, and turn up the lower end bass with the cool Q-Bass feature the amp has. And adjust the Phoenix Gold EQ for the highs. I'ma do all that on Thursday when I'm up at my mom's house, going up there for a yummy pork chop birthday dinner (that's right Brent, I dig on swine!).
TegSox
Super Duper Moderator
Nope, haven't covered that.
The bigger panel (facing the rear seats) is braced to the big bracket that the 2 seat backs attach to in the middle of the car. I bought just a generic metal brace at Home Depot for 50 cents and bent it to the shape needed to go from the amp panel to that bracket. I wanted to brace things in a way that put as few holes in the car as possible, especially in the floor of the car, don't wanna do that at all. So using that bracket was perfect.
Then of course, the sides of the amp panels contour to the side panels in the car, so that eliminates side to side movement.
The sub box is attatched to that panel with a single long sheet rock screw, you can see it in the 4th pic down 2 of my posts ago. I also am still trying to figure out the best way to attatch the smaller panel to the sub box to make things even more secure. I wanna do it in a way that puts as few new holes in the box as possible. I also need to attatch it in a way that allows some twisting/swivel movement at the bottom of the small panel but no straight forward or straight back movement, so I can pull the top of the panel forward and reach down behind it and make the lower attatchment, then put the top back up against the bigger panel and screw it down lastly. You can see the 2 sheet rock screws I used to attatch the top of the smaller panel to the top of the larger panel in that pic you quoted.
So, things are secure enough so that it stays in place, the box won't fall over or anything, but I want to eliminate weight from shifting as much as possible, because shifting weight essentially adds weight to the car when taking off or turning hard.
The bigger panel (facing the rear seats) is braced to the big bracket that the 2 seat backs attach to in the middle of the car. I bought just a generic metal brace at Home Depot for 50 cents and bent it to the shape needed to go from the amp panel to that bracket. I wanted to brace things in a way that put as few holes in the car as possible, especially in the floor of the car, don't wanna do that at all. So using that bracket was perfect.
Then of course, the sides of the amp panels contour to the side panels in the car, so that eliminates side to side movement.
The sub box is attatched to that panel with a single long sheet rock screw, you can see it in the 4th pic down 2 of my posts ago. I also am still trying to figure out the best way to attatch the smaller panel to the sub box to make things even more secure. I wanna do it in a way that puts as few new holes in the box as possible. I also need to attatch it in a way that allows some twisting/swivel movement at the bottom of the small panel but no straight forward or straight back movement, so I can pull the top of the panel forward and reach down behind it and make the lower attatchment, then put the top back up against the bigger panel and screw it down lastly. You can see the 2 sheet rock screws I used to attatch the top of the smaller panel to the top of the larger panel in that pic you quoted.
So, things are secure enough so that it stays in place, the box won't fall over or anything, but I want to eliminate weight from shifting as much as possible, because shifting weight essentially adds weight to the car when taking off or turning hard.
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