GSR N/A build need recommendations...

[WhiteGsrBeater]

I know theres alot of all motor heads here. Give me some recomendations for parts and what to do...

What I am trying to achive-

• Daily Driver
• 200-220 whp
• Pump gas of course
• Reliable (thats why Im going all motor, plus beating forced induction cars is sweeter when you N/A)
• Will be able to handle squeeze if I want to, probably only gonna go with a single wet if I end up doing it.
• Probably wont squeeze though to keep the motor fresh, just incase you never know once you go fast you want to go faster, everyone Knows that.
• I can go all the way from top to bottom on the build what I mean by that is full head job vales, springs, cams, PNP etc. etc. to rods/ pistons.

Thanks fellas

 

[mob182]

"Power reside in the head."
Do some head work, you should get some good power out of it.

You can also check artilces on hondatuningmagazine.com. They have some pretty good stuff on there. It could help you decide what would work better for you.

 

[WhiteGsrBeater]

Thanks MOB

 

[JDMxDB8]

Like mob182 said, headwork is the way to go. If you want, you can even throw in some ITR pistons. Make sure to get an ECU and tune.

 

[WhiteGsrBeater]

Correct me if Im wrong. Someone told me that building a B20 VTEC would be a better route then building a straight GSR. Also a cheaper route at that, because its already a 2.0. Someone elaborate on this please

 

[WhiteGsrBeater]

Anyone?

 

[JDMxDB8]

Correct me if Im wrong. Someone told me that building a B20 VTEC would be a better route then building a straight GSR. Also a cheaper route at that, because its already a 2.0. Someone elaborate on this please

B20s are good, but since you already have a B18C1, you might as well stick with what you have. If you had a B18B1, then it'd be a different story.

 

[Winki]

I know theres alot of all motor heads here. Give me some recomendations for parts and what to do...

What I am trying to achive-

• Daily Driver
• 200-220 whp
• Pump gas of course
• Reliable (thats why Im going all motor, plus beating forced induction cars is sweeter when you N/A)
• Will be able to handle squeeze if I want to, probably only gonna go with a single wet if I end up doing it.
• Probably wont squeeze though to keep the motor fresh, just incase you never know once you go fast you want to go faster, everyone Knows that.
• I can go all the way from top to bottom on the build what I mean by that is full head job vales, springs, cams, PNP etc. etc. to rods/ pistons.

Thanks fellas

lol sigh as much as i would love to pick apart all your reasons and tell you to go boost i wont:lol:

but for a daily i would not recomend going higher than 12:1 cr if you wanna use pump again its in the tune but why take the chance and to get in the 200whp range is gonna be about yor max for a b series daily driver. weeks sauce :roll::roll::roll: jk
but you will need some fairly agresive cams and a good supporting head : valve spings, valve job, PNP yada yada. repituble (sp) bolt ons good header exhaust combo good flowing IM. i also recomend forged rods and ITR or maybe CTR pistons would work and there good prices. get a good tuner with a good system. and rev the hell out of it.
just a bunch of rambling but thats my 2 cents.

 

[corona88]

lol sigh as much as i would love to pick apart all your reasons and tell you to go boost i wont:lol:

but for a daily i would not recomend going higher than 12:1 cr if you wanna use pump again its in the tune but why take the chance and to get in the 200whp range is gonna be about yor max for a b series daily driver. weeks sauce :roll::roll::roll: jk
but you will need some fairly agresive cams and a good supporting head : valve spings, valve job, PNP yada yada. repituble (sp) bolt ons good header exhaust combo good flowing IM. i also recomend forged rods and ITR or maybe CTR pistons would work and there good prices. get a good tuner with a good system. and rev the hell out of it.
just a bunch of rambling but thats my 2 cents.

WHAT HE SAID :lol:

......my :twocents:

 

[WhiteGsrBeater]

So you guys think to go boost huh? I take it thats what you guys are running. But pease go ahead and explain though, I would like to know Im very open right. Thanks for the input...

 

[WhiteGsrBeater]

B20s are good, but since you already have a B18C1, you might as well stick with what you have. If you had a B18B1, then it'd be a different story.

Its not on what I have... I am gonna get another set up keep my stocker stock and set aside. With that said is that still your take?

 

[Winki]

So you guys think to go boost huh? I take it thats what you guys are running. But pease go ahead and explain though, I would like to know Im very open right. Thanks for the input...

i didnt want to sound like a boost nazi because i bring it up a lot :lol: i know some people just really prefer all motor

I know theres alot of all motor heads here. Give me some recomendations for parts and what to do...

What I am trying to achive-

• 
  [1*]Daily Driver
  [*2]200-220 whp
  [3*]Pump gas of course
  [4*]Reliable (thats why Im going all motor, plus beating forced induction cars is sweeter when you N/A)
  [5*]Will be able to handle squeeze if I want to, probably only gonna go with a single wet if I end up doing it.
  [6*]Probably wont squeeze though to keep the motor fresh, just incase you never know once you go fast you want to go faster, everyone Knows that.
  [7*]I can go all the way from top to bottom on the build what I mean by that is full head job vales, springs, cams, PNP etc. etc. to rods/ pistons.

Thanks fellas

For starters
A stock LS on pump gas can put down an easy 220 with a very conserative(reliable) 10psi or less depending on your tuner. i believe that takes care of 1-4. also a stock GSR can put down an easy300 on around 10psi still being conserative. i run an LSvtec set up that on only 6psi will put down 267 which would be simular to a GSR on 6psi so say a super conserative BONE stock Gsr on 6-7psi 250whp. i guess what im kinda geting at here for the prices of building an all motor car you can throw a basic dragkit on a stock motor and be just as reliable but faster.
5 and 6 who needs squeez when you can tune your car for more boost with a good waterinjection kit and still be reliable or simple mani and turbo upgrades you will also notice a diff. but if you wanna keep it simple 250whp you will beat 90% of cars yo come across.
7- i you really want to build.. well there is a lot of options there but for your power goals i assume there is not point in building a motor for boost unless you looking for over 330

 

[Winki]

Its not on what I have... I am gonna get another set up keep my stocker stock and set aside. With that said is that still your take?

i have seen some basic put together B20vtecs put down uper 170s

 

[WhiteGsrBeater]

Upper 170's? Man I was thinking that would put down more. What about a B20/vtec high 12.1 compression head work of course. Will I lose alot of top end?

I totally see what your saying about the boost. Cheaper for the same out come.

 

[Winki]

a built b20vtec still be in the lower 200whp not that much diff than a built gsr just more a litle more tq and hp from the extra .2

and yeah uper 170s i think is pretty good for a not tuned motor.
my buddys tuned gsr only put down 162