90 da9 ls vtec build. first time doing it.

[yetti]

So i have a 90 da9 and i decided I'm going to do the ls vtec. Now please don't flame me this will be the first time doing this build and i have a few questions that may seem silly. Now when i get the head put on i was wondering will the timing kit, water & oil pump, & radiator still be the same? If not what do i replace it with? And i currently have a/c and p/s and those are things id like to keep, will doing this effect any of that? Thanks

 

[Mike61096]

timing belt, water pump, oil pump, and rad are still all the same. It is, however, a suggestion that you replace all of them (except the radiator) so you don't run into future problems. Plus you might as well do it while the head is off. P/S and A/C still have the same components as well, however, you may need to drain your A/C system and remove some of the lines temporarily so you will have the clearance you need to fit the head on properly.

 

[yetti]

Thanks mike61096. Last question i think lol. I want to rebuild the motor when i swap the head to boost it, if i get a master rebuild kit for the b18a1 all the gaskets, main rod bearings, and all the other stuff that comes in the master rebuild kit be the same? I know the head gasket will be different

 

[BigMac88]

Thanks mike61096. Last question i think lol. I want to rebuild the motor when i swap the head to boost it, if i get a master rebuild kit for the b18a1 all the gaskets, main rod bearings, and all the other stuff that comes in the master rebuild kit be the same? I know the head gasket will be different

If you're going to boost, and going to tear down the bottom end anyway, do yourself a favor - get some forged rods and pistons with ARP rod bolts and new bearing. Promise. You'll need to use GSR head studs, water pump, and timing belt on you build.

Also next time, search. This topic has been covered a lot. http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1676914

 

[yetti]

Yea bigmac88 thanks for that link awesome write up but 1 i have searched and didn't find anything pertaining to my questions, & 2 notice how that's a different site lol. But thanks it did clear up my questions, only one new one came to mind. I see that the B16a are 1.6 litre & the ls is 1.8 does that matter?

 

[yetti]

Also is this something one can do by yourself?

 

[yetti]

Ok so after much research here is what i came up with for my ls vtec part list.
I already have a complete b16a1 head.
B16 skunk 2 titanium valve springs & retainers
P73 oil pump
B18a1 rods
P28 ecu or maybe p72 im not sure
B16 acl bearings
Cometic 81mm ls vtec conversion head gasket
Golden eagle ls vtec conversiin kit (dowels, oil line, etc.)
B16 blox adjustable cam gears
B16 supertech valve seals
Hastings piston rings
B18a arp rod bolts
P73 intake manifold & throttle body
Now im not sure which timing kit to use p73 or b16?
Also here's some questions i have.
Should I get new valves and lifters?
What compression should the pistons be since I plan to boost?
Do I need the eagle rods? Or will stock ls rods be fine?
What size injectors?
And lastly did i miss any parts?

 

[Mike61096]

Ok so after much research here is what i came up with for my ls vtec part list.
I already have a complete b16a1 head.
B16 skunk 2 titanium valve springs & retainers
P73 oil pump
B18a1 rods
P28 ecu or maybe p72 im not sure
B16 acl bearings
Cometic 81mm ls vtec conversion head gasket
Golden eagle ls vtec conversiin kit (dowels, oil line, etc.)
B16 blox adjustable cam gears
B16 supertech valve seals
Hastings piston rings
B18a arp rod bolts
P73 intake manifold & throttle body
Now im not sure which timing kit to use p73 or b16?
Also here's some questions i have.
Should I get new valves and lifters?
What compression should the pistons be since I plan to boost?
Do I need the eagle rods? Or will stock ls rods be fine?
What size injectors?
And lastly did i miss any parts?

Rods are definitely something that should be upgraded when doing an lsv build. LS rods aren't strong enough and are frequently the weak link in these kind of builds. I suggest either shot peening the ls rods or going with crower or eagle rods.

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[yetti]

Rods are definitely something that should be upgraded when doing an lsv build. LS rods aren't strong enough and are frequently the weak link in these kind of builds. I suggest either shot peening the ls rods or going with crower or eagle rods.

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i might shot peen them cuz eagle rods are a bit pricey. I am buying parts as i can. But besides the rods how is my list? Am i missing anything? I plan on doing this right

 

[Mike61096]

i might shot peen them cuz eagle rods are a bit pricey. I am buying parts as i can. But besides the rods how is my list? Am i missing anything? I plan on doing this right

Looks pretty good. Are you using B16 cams? Or, do you plan on upgrading to something like GS-R cams?

 

[yetti]

Looks pretty good. Are you using B16 cams? Or, do you plan on upgrading to something like GS-R cams?

Good question. I think if i do gsr cams id have to do the pistons n cam gears to match right? But the way it is now b16 cams. I plan on boosting this set-up so are the pr3 piston low enough compression?

 

[BigMac88]

Rods are definitely something that should be upgraded when doing an lsv build. LS rods aren't strong enough and are frequently the weak link in these kind of builds. I suggest either shot peening the ls rods or going with crower or eagle rods.

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i might shot peen them cuz eagle rods are a bit pricey. I am buying parts as i can. But besides the rods how is my list? Am i missing anything? I plan on doing this right

It's not the rods that are the issue on LS/B20 bottom ends, it's the rod bolts. Just get some ARP rod bolts, you'll be great. The LS/B20 has a 1.54:1 rod-to-stroke ratio, the GSR/ITR has a 1.58:1. Not a massive difference.

Also, I highly suggest AGAINST shot-peening rods - it makes theme stronger but they lose quite a bit of tensil strength - AKA they get brittle! Just run ARP rod bolts, they are more than sufficient for mild LS/V builds.

 

[yetti]

It's not the rods that are the issue on LS/B20 bottom ends, it's the rod bolts. Just get some ARP rod bolts, you'll be great. The LS/B20 has a 1.54:1 rod-to-stroke ratio, the GSR/ITR has a 1.58:1. Not a massive difference.

Also, I highly suggest AGAINST shot-peening rods - it makes theme stronger but they lose quite a bit of tensil strength - AKA they get brittle! Just run ARP rod bolts, they are more than sufficient for mild LS/V builds.

That makes sense, now the pr3 pistons would be ok for holding boost?

 

[BigMac88]

That makes sense, now the pr3 pistons would be ok for holding boost?

Not in the LS. TBH I'm not even sure that you'll have valve clearance with that much dome on those things if you're using stock length rods. Also, you're static compression is gonna be like ~11.9:1. I wouldn't boost on compression that high without forged pistons. Muckman on here has a nice high comp boost build, you should look at his thread if that's what you're interested in. However, in general it is safer/easier to tune boost on a lower compression motor. If you want proof of that theory, use Google because there's plenty of science behind it.

Let me ask you an question. If you want a basic boost setup, why not just boost the stock LS? They're great for mild boost setups. Lots of guys run GT25's, 28's, and T3/T4 hybrids and make 200+ whp reliable on the stock motor. I'm working on building an LS motor right now (not for my car) and it should be around 400whp on a Holset HX35 with just a forged - stock compression ratio - bottom end and a few things up top to help it flow better (stock cams). You have options. Don't force yourself into doing an LS/V - which is mechanically an inferior setup in my humble opinion. The only time it is worth it is if you run a B20/VTEC and build the bottom end properly IMO.

 

[yetti]

Not in the LS. TBH I'm not even sure that you'll have valve clearance with that much dome on those things if you're using stock length rods. Also, you're static compression is gonna be like ~11.9:1. I wouldn't boost on compression that high without forged pistons. Muckman on here has a nice high comp boost build, you should look at his thread if that's what you're interested in. However, in general it is safer/easier to tune boost on a lower compression motor. If you want proof of that theory, use Google because there's plenty of science behind it.

Let me ask you an question. If you want a basic boost setup, why not just boost the stock LS? They're great for mild boost setups. Lots of guys run GT25's, 28's, and T3/T4 hybrids and make 200+ whp reliable on the stock motor. I'm working on building an LS motor right now (not for my car) and it should be around 400whp on a Holset HX35 with just a forged - stock compression ratio - bottom end and a few things up top to help it flow better (stock cams). You have options. Don't force yourself into doing an LS/V - which is mechanically an inferior setup in my humble opinion. The only time it is worth it is if you run a B20/VTEC and build the bottom end properly IMO.

So it's not a good idea to boost ls/v? And no i dont want to do high comp boost build like muckman, i will get piston that have lower compression. My stock ls has a good amount of love/ miles so i would rebuild it before i boosted it. I was originallylooking into just boosting my ls but then i was hearing it's not worth it, and to get decent power it have to be at like 25psi. Everywhere i looked people were saying do a sawp ir go ls/v then boost.