If you're going to boost, and going to tear down the bottom end anyway, do yourself a favor - get some forged rods and pistons with ARP rod bolts and new bearing. Promise. You'll need to use GSR head studs, water pump, and timing belt on you build.Thanks mike61096. Last question i think lol. I want to rebuild the motor when i swap the head to boost it, if i get a master rebuild kit for the b18a1 all the gaskets, main rod bearings, and all the other stuff that comes in the master rebuild kit be the same? I know the head gasket will be different
Rods are definitely something that should be upgraded when doing an lsv build. LS rods aren't strong enough and are frequently the weak link in these kind of builds. I suggest either shot peening the ls rods or going with crower or eagle rods.Ok so after much research here is what i came up with for my ls vtec part list.
I already have a complete b16a1 head.
B16 skunk 2 titanium valve springs & retainers
P73 oil pump
B18a1 rods
P28 ecu or maybe p72 im not sure
B16 acl bearings
Cometic 81mm ls vtec conversion head gasket
Golden eagle ls vtec conversiin kit (dowels, oil line, etc.)
B16 blox adjustable cam gears
B16 supertech valve seals
Hastings piston rings
B18a arp rod bolts
P73 intake manifold & throttle body
Now im not sure which timing kit to use p73 or b16?
Also here's some questions i have.
Should I get new valves and lifters?
What compression should the pistons be since I plan to boost?
Do I need the eagle rods? Or will stock ls rods be fine?
What size injectors?
And lastly did i miss any parts?
i might shot peen them cuz eagle rods are a bit pricey. I am buying parts as i can. But besides the rods how is my list? Am i missing anything? I plan on doing this rightRods are definitely something that should be upgraded when doing an lsv build. LS rods aren't strong enough and are frequently the weak link in these kind of builds. I suggest either shot peening the ls rods or going with crower or eagle rods.
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Looks pretty good. Are you using B16 cams? Or, do you plan on upgrading to something like GS-R cams?i might shot peen them cuz eagle rods are a bit pricey. I am buying parts as i can. But besides the rods how is my list? Am i missing anything? I plan on doing this right
Good question. I think if i do gsr cams id have to do the pistons n cam gears to match right? But the way it is now b16 cams. I plan on boosting this set-up so are the pr3 piston low enough compression?Looks pretty good. Are you using B16 cams? Or, do you plan on upgrading to something like GS-R cams?
Rods are definitely something that should be upgraded when doing an lsv build. LS rods aren't strong enough and are frequently the weak link in these kind of builds. I suggest either shot peening the ls rods or going with crower or eagle rods.
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It's not the rods that are the issue on LS/B20 bottom ends, it's the rod bolts. Just get some ARP rod bolts, you'll be great. The LS/B20 has a 1.54:1 rod-to-stroke ratio, the GSR/ITR has a 1.58:1. Not a massive difference.i might shot peen them cuz eagle rods are a bit pricey. I am buying parts as i can. But besides the rods how is my list? Am i missing anything? I plan on doing this right
That makes sense, now the pr3 pistons would be ok for holding boost?It's not the rods that are the issue on LS/B20 bottom ends, it's the rod bolts. Just get some ARP rod bolts, you'll be great. The LS/B20 has a 1.54:1 rod-to-stroke ratio, the GSR/ITR has a 1.58:1. Not a massive difference.
Also, I highly suggest AGAINST shot-peening rods - it makes theme stronger but they lose quite a bit of tensil strength - AKA they get brittle! Just run ARP rod bolts, they are more than sufficient for mild LS/V builds.
That makes sense, now the pr3 pistons would be ok for holding boost?
So it's not a good idea to boost ls/v? And no i dont want to do high comp boost build like muckman, i will get piston that have lower compression. My stock ls has a good amount of love/ miles so i would rebuild it before i boosted it. I was originallylooking into just boosting my ls but then i was hearing it's not worth it, and to get decent power it have to be at like 25psi. Everywhere i looked people were saying do a sawp ir go ls/v then boost.Not in the LS. TBH I'm not even sure that you'll have valve clearance with that much dome on those things if you're using stock length rods. Also, you're static compression is gonna be like ~11.9:1. I wouldn't boost on compression that high without forged pistons. Muckman on here has a nice high comp boost build, you should look at his thread if that's what you're interested in. However, in general it is safer/easier to tune boost on a lower compression motor. If you want proof of that theory, use Google because there's plenty of science behind it.
Let me ask you an question. If you want a basic boost setup, why not just boost the stock LS? They're great for mild boost setups. Lots of guys run GT25's, 28's, and T3/T4 hybrids and make 200+ whp reliable on the stock motor. I'm working on building an LS motor right now (not for my car) and it should be around 400whp on a Holset HX35 with just a forged - stock compression ratio - bottom end and a few things up top to help it flow better (stock cams). You have options. Don't force yourself into doing an LS/V - which is mechanically an inferior setup in my humble opinion. The only time it is worth it is if you run a B20/VTEC and build the bottom end properly IMO.