well i've decided

ls_gsr

New Member
btw i've learned today that my friend is going turbo on his gsr and wants to sell his itb's.and as much i want boost i love itb's.so i might be going all motor now lol :) wow that was a great discussion though.thanks to all the people that gave their opinion thats what i can always count on here at club integra . good people with good opinions .even though some of us disagree thats fine as long as we love our hobby(life for most of us) and our integras
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
I'm late but I want to comment on this

ls_gsr said:
well i read all the pages and it seems that people who actually have the kits LOVE them and its the people that have just "heard" about the kits say they are crap.
My friend bought one of those manifolds. Still has it. Brand new. As soon as we saw it he went and bought a good manifold. Never even put it on the car. I'll get some pics of it this week so you can see it. I can weld better than it. It is trash. The weld on downpipe flange cracked as well and he never hit it on the ground

ls_gsr said:
also if i have a 7 lbs spring in my waste gate does that mean the system can't boost over 7 psi?
No. The boost controller goes before the wastegate actuator. It holds the boost to whatever you set it at before it ever reaches the wastegates actuator. Then once the boost controller gets to its setting it releases the pressure to wastegate and blows it open. You just won't be able to run less than 7psi without a lighter spring.......or a boost leak lol

As for the cheap EBAY kits, I say NO. They truely are crap. You can make them decent if you get a new manifold, wastegate, and turbo. But for that price, you could just piece you own kit together with quality parts. Save about $1500 and you can build a quality kit and get Hondata. Their FMIC aren't a bad deal though. Just get some T-bolt clamps instead of worm gear clamps

As for AFC's..........this is my thoughts
dc2GS-R said:
Remember that AFC controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU. The primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is very important on a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying more fuel.

The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used.

But wait, the Map Sensor is used for determining ignition requirements too! When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you also advanced ignition timing. When you "richen" a car with a AFC, you will have retarded timing. If looking at the trends horizontally (as MAP changes) on an ignition table, and you can clearly see why this happens and to what extent. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.

The bottom line: SAFC's and VAFC's suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and uncontrolled ignition timing is NOT good at all
 
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Sirfallsalot243

New Member
ls_gsr said:
btw i've learned today that my friend is going turbo on his gsr and wants to sell his itb's.and as much i want boost i love itb's.so i might be going all motor now lol :) wow that was a great discussion though.thanks to all the people that gave their opinion thats what i can always count on here at club integra . good people with good opinions .even though some of us disagree thats fine as long as we love our hobby(life for most of us) and our integras
1. GSR ITB's will not work on your B18B.
2. You can make better, more useable power with a properly sized throttle body and intake manifold combination that has been port matched and bored to fit your needs. Added to the fact that ITB's are fuckin impossible to tune. An ITB tune will easily cost more than a basic turbo tune.
 


Sirfallsalot243

New Member
Alright. But id still recommend a nice 64mm TB and a Blox IM thats been opened and port matched to your head and TB than ITB's. After the 1100-3000 spent on the ITB's and the $500+ spent to tune them, you could have just as nice of a setup, just with slightly less bling.
 

ls_gsr

New Member
yeah tell me about it he wants 1000 bucks for the itb's.would itr cams be a good upgrade still using the stock head work.also what about b16 cams?
 


Sirfallsalot243

New Member
B16 cams are smaller than GSR cams. Youll lose power there. If you want to get some ITR cams, youll pick up a couple ponies there, it will make a noticeable difference. Id highly recommend using dual valvesprings with them, or at least stock ITR valvetrain. You can pick up ITR valvetrain for around 100bucks. Some adjustable cam gears and cam gear tuning wouldnt hurt either. Without an increase in compression, i wouldnt get any cams much bigger than ITR's. Crower 2's MAX. If you want to do a serious all motor build, ill sell you my Crower Stage 3's for $350. Im thinking about swapping them out for Skunk2 Pro1's.
 

ls_gsr

New Member
well i didn't want to change my valve train so i think i'm gonna get itr's and some cam gears.how much do itr's go for?
 

Sirfallsalot243

New Member
You really SHOULD change your valvetrain with ITR cams. At least the valvesprings. You can use your stock retainers. But if you value your motor (since I know youll want to rev the piss out of it with the new cams), I really recommend you upgrade the springs to at least OEM ITR's to keep the valves from floating at high RPM.

ITR's go for $300-350. If you find them for $300 or lower, buy it. Theres plenty of them around- no need to pay what everyone else is paying. Just wait for a deal. Cam gears will run you about $150.
 

ls_gsr

New Member
no i just want more mid range i don't care about revving higher ,8k is fine for me :) so what do you guys think would be nice mods for mid range power boosts
 
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