Ty's '07 Cobalt SS/SC

[R13]

The saab part is the good part [emoji23]

My mustang looks like hell, it’s so freckled from making the 36 mile trip to my gf’s once a week.

 

[LsTeg97]

looks impressive

 

[94RS]

The saab part is the good part [emoji23]

My mustang looks like hell, it’s so freckled from making the 36 mile trip to my gf’s once a week.

Majority of the car is Saab [emoji23]


Your car is freckled because Ford uses that top quality paint. Doesn’t matter how well you take care of it, it’s shit [emoji23]

looks impressive

Thanks buddy [emoji1303]

 

[94RS]

Let’s hope this fixes the problem. I reeeeaaaalllly don’t wanna spend $200 on an actuator [emoji23]

 

[94RS]

Well... wasn’t the boost gauge. That’s $60 wasted.

Only thing that’s left is either the boost actuator and bypass valve. Might as well replace them both

This is exactly what I mean when people ask me what’s so special about ford’s over chevy’s [emoji23] Every fucking Chevrolet or GM I’ve ever touched has cheap ass brittle rubber and plastics... meanwhile the ‘71 f100 in the back yard still has a fully intact original windshield washer reservoir and lines

Look at this shit. Brand fucking new hose.

 

[R13]

Doesn’t even look dry rotted, just looks like there’s more plastic in it than rubber.

Fuckin’ GM, inb4 the wiring starts falling apart.

 

[94RS]

Doesn’t even look dry rotted, just looks like there’s more plastic in it than rubber.

Fuckin’ GM, inb4 the wiring starts falling apart.

Oh, it’s not dry rotted at all. I pulled it off the barb on the supercharger and it tore in half.



Hopefully the wiring holds out. Everything electrical on this car is made by Bosch in Germany, so I think I’m good. It’s the Mexican made AC Delco shit I’d worry about.

 

[LsTeg97]

Did this fix your issue?

 

[94RS]

Did this fix your issue?

[emoji23] nope.


The actuator is most likely what’s wrong. Apparently there’s a spring inside that wears out and causes a vacuum leak, which leads to low boost.

 

[R13]

What about deleting and upgrading it?

 

[94RS]

Rather just fix it and not worry about if my shit is gonna fall apart [emoji23]


It’s fucked up though, the actuator for Cobalts and Ions is 160ish, yet the one for the 3800, which is somehow the same one for blown Ford Modulars, is like $45.

 

[R13]

Lower quality, higher price... sounds about right [emoji23]

Actually the ford one probably isn’t great itself.

 

[94RS]

Lower quality, higher price... sounds about right [emoji23]

Actually the ford one probably isn’t great itself.

They’re all made by Eaton, not Ford or GM [emoji1744]‍[emoji3603]

 

[94RS]

So... new boost actuator and bypass valve on, and now it’s running 3psi max. And it’s slow as shit [emoji1750]‍[emoji3603]


My supercharger still sounds healthy, like it’s whining up to full boost, no belt slippage, and I’m not throwing any codes or a check engine light. So my last guess is the PCM... [emoji1744]‍[emoji3603]

 

[R13]

What in the hell...

It’s just that time of the year... the ceo of gm is just up there smashing his “give all the old cars bizarre ass problems” button. Grandfather’s 97 S10 has ran great for years, the second I get in it last week, MAF and two EGR codes, which indicates a clogged cat, but you can clearly hear and feel the exhaust flow to know damn well the cat’s fine.

It also won’t get warmer than 130 degrees according to the ecu/pcm, and the engine is always touchable after you drive it...

But you can’t drive it because the damn thing will randomly just shut off. Fuckin chevy’s.