Ty's '07 Cobalt SS/SC

[R13]

I was just thinking about “hot spots” from the bulb being too close to the film

The 5th gen is cheaper too, but only by $2.

 

[94RS]

2mm difference [emoji23]

“Only” $2 cheaper still equals 10 bulbs for $11 vs $49.50, not including shipping.

 

[R13]

Sometimes that .08 inches is all it takes [emoji23]

 

[94RS]

Guessing that might be the cause of my problems [emoji23]

 

[R13]

Battery?

I’ve been recommending the Walmart EverStart batteries to everyone and they’re doing great

The battery on my mustang is from 2012, it’s been drained all the way down over a dozen times and it still works great.

 

[94RS]

Yup, check the date sticker.


I checked Walmart first, but every fucking every one of them near me were out of the oddball size the Cobalt uses. I ended up finding a 25% off coupon for Advance in my email, so I went with their AutoCraft Gold. It worked out to the same price as the EverStart Maxx

 

[R13]

I’ve got an autocraft silver battery I switch between mine and my brother’s cars to keep them healthy. I wanna say it’s like a 2012 or 2011.

Fucking thing was $144 though and it didn’t even come with a carry handle...

 

[94RS]

Yeah, that fixed it. Quicker startup, a/c blows much harder, no more idle surge... but my stupid ass forgot to pull off the old vent elbow, so yay [emoji23]

 

[94RS]

So I notice the other my boost gauge wouldn’t go past 4-5psi at WOT, even though I can hear the blower giving the full whine. Look under the hood, notice the two vacuum lines going to the bypass valve are completely dry rotted

$72 later, still won’t read past 4psi. I’ve read that the boost gauges sometimes go to shit, so I’ve got one of those in order. Surprisingly an OEM Chevy/ Autometer boost gauge from a dealer was damn near half the cost ($59) of an Autometer Sport Comp.

Hoping that fixes it, if not it’s either the bypass valve, which is like $40, or the actuator (thing the hoses connect to), which I can’t find for under $200... yay for boosted life [emoji23]

 

[94RS]

One of my canter caps popped off at some point.... Rather than pay $18 for a single center cap, I decided to spend $22 to replace the stock brushes caps with chrome ones that come on Impalas and Malibu’s.

Stock left, new right

I actually think they work a bit better than the ones that came on the car.

Stock

 

[R13]

Agreed [emoji108]

That’s fucking shitty that a car that new had dry-rotted hoses, must’ve used some 30 year old stock they found when they built that bastard [emoji23]

 

[94RS]

Agreed [emoji108]

That’s fucking shitty that a car that new had dry-rotted hoses, must’ve used some 30 year old stock they found when they built that bastard [emoji23]

Idk if it’s because it’s a Florida car or from the engine heat, but the hoses they used on this car are just trash [emoji23]


For instance, I had to replace the washer nozzle line (that runs across the firewall) about a year ago because nothing was coming out, but I could smell the fluid.... Turns out the shit was snapped in half and leaking onto the header, and the rest of the line so hard and brittle that it snapped into another 8 pieces when I tried pulling it off.

 

[R13]

This is exactly what I mean when people ask me what’s so special about ford’s over chevy’s [emoji23] Every fucking Chevrolet or GM I’ve ever touched has cheap ass brittle rubber and plastics... meanwhile the ‘71 f100 in the back yard still has a fully intact original windshield washer reservoir and lines

 

[94RS]

Hoses are easily replaced though. The car itself has been damn good to me so far, ya know... besides stupid little shit.

Hasn’t left me stranded though, and sadly, I’ve put more miles on the SS since I got it last June than I have my Integra that I bought on my 19th birthday.


Only thing I’ll have to do eventually is get it repainted. Rock chips on the hood and front bumper, and a tiny spot on the lip is starting to fade.

 

[94RS]