TeggyBear's Official JDM H22A Swap Thread.

acclude

cheap bastard
EVERY QUESTION YOU HAVE ABOUT THE F/H SERIES CAN BE FOUND ON www.cb7tuner.com

Great site, great members and if you spend some time searching, it's all there.

I've owned 7 Accords (listed in my sig) and have had several H22's, H23's, F22B's, and even an H22/H23 frankenstein motor. I know quite a bit about these myself so I'd be happy to answer whatever questions I can.


First of all, you got one helluva steal on that motor. That motor with LSD trans sells for $3500-5000 depending on mileage and condition. If it's a true type-S, it should have a engine block coe of H22A. That's the same for just about all JDM H22's though so you gotta look for other signs to see if it's legit. It should have what appears to ba a typical dual runner H22 intake manifold with butterflys (not the single runner) but is actually a slightly modified manifold which is easiest to identify my measuring the TB opening. The type-S should be 62mm while the regular H22A was 60mm. The type-S IM also looks a little more refined. There's differnt codes stamped in the heads of the type-S, euro-R, and regular H22A, but I don't remember them and had no luck searching quickly. But basically if the intake manifold matches the characteristics of the type-S, then you probably have a type-S and if so, that's about 220hp so that thing is going to fly!!!!

If it's a true type-S then it should have come from a Prelude and should have one of these trans codes. A M2U4 is the true type-s trans with LSD, if it's a M2B4 then it's just a regular LSD JDM trans, and if it's a M2Z4 it's the SiR w/LSD. Anything else and it's either out of an JDM Accord just a stocker with LSD added to it.

The P5P is supposed to be the stock ECU to run that motor, but a P28 chipped will also work.

As for the wire harness, you want to use your current motor harness and transfer it over to the H22. You may have to extend a few wires here and there and you may have to steal some plugs from the original H22 harness, but that's the easiest and quickest way to get the motor wired up and to make sure it plugs into the engine bay harness properly. As for the ECU, I don't know what year your teggy is, so you might be able to plug the P28 right in or you may have to get a OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, but any of the conversion harnesses will work.

Never put one in a teggy before so I don't know off hand what axles to use or any of that, but you will need to figure out something with the shifter since the lude trans uses cables and your car has the rod. Either use an adapter plate and go with the B/D trans as suggested before (which may be the better option), or go to a junkyard and grab the shifter assembly from an accord/lude and rig it up in your car. Exhaust will need some mods, but other than that, it shouldn't be too big of a deal to install.

Good luck. I want to see this done! Feel free to ask more questions as they come up.
 

TeggyBear_Ls

90 EF LS/V 95 DC4
EVERY QUESTION YOU HAVE ABOUT THE F/H SERIES CAN BE FOUND ON www.cb7tuner.com

Great site, great members and if you spend some time searching, it's all there.

I've owned 7 Accords (listed in my sig) and have had several H22's, H23's, F22B's, and even an H22/H23 frankenstein motor. I know quite a bit about these myself so I'd be happy to answer whatever questions I can.


First of all, you got one helluva steal on that motor. That motor with LSD trans sells for $3500-5000 depending on mileage and condition. If it's a true type-S, it should have a engine block coe of H22A. That's the same for just about all JDM H22's though so you gotta look for other signs to see if it's legit. It should have what appears to ba a typical dual runner H22 intake manifold with butterflys (not the single runner) but is actually a slightly modified manifold which is easiest to identify my measuring the TB opening. The type-S should be 62mm while the regular H22A was 60mm. The type-S IM also looks a little more refined. There's differnt codes stamped in the heads of the type-S, euro-R, and regular H22A, but I don't remember them and had no luck searching quickly. But basically if the intake manifold matches the characteristics of the type-S, then you probably have a type-S and if so, that's about 220hp so that thing is going to fly!!!!

If it's a true type-S then it should have come from a Prelude and should have one of these trans codes. A M2U4 is the true type-s trans with LSD, if it's a M2B4 then it's just a regular LSD JDM trans, and if it's a M2Z4 it's the SiR w/LSD. Anything else and it's either out of an JDM Accord just a stocker with LSD added to it.

The P5P is supposed to be the stock ECU to run that motor, but a P28 chipped will also work.

As for the wire harness, you want to use your current motor harness and transfer it over to the H22. You may have to extend a few wires here and there and you may have to steal some plugs from the original H22 harness, but that's the easiest and quickest way to get the motor wired up and to make sure it plugs into the engine bay harness properly. As for the ECU, I don't know what year your teggy is, so you might be able to plug the P28 right in or you may have to get a OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, but any of the conversion harnesses will work.

Never put one in a teggy before so I don't know off hand what axles to use or any of that, but you will need to figure out something with the shifter since the lude trans uses cables and your car has the rod. Either use an adapter plate and go with the B/D trans as suggested before (which may be the better option), or go to a junkyard and grab the shifter assembly from an accord/lude and rig it up in your car. Exhaust will need some mods, but other than that, it shouldn't be too big of a deal to install.

Good luck. I want to see this done! Feel free to ask more questions as they come up.
Thanks a bunch man. That's all great info that I need. I'll definately be checking the motor over really good with all that info you just told me lol. I STILL haven't had a chance to go check it out again. I'm DEFINATELY taking pics of it, so a'll can see it too.

So it's possible to use the Integra's non-VTEC wire harness? I beleive I will need the wires for the VTEC going to the ECU... Our teggy is an OBD1 95....

pretty sure the Accord & Teg axle combo and Accord shift linkage will work.

Thanks


manual trans fluid
Oh. :oops:
 


TeggyBear_Ls

90 EF LS/V 95 DC4
UPDATE:

FINALLY PICTARS!!!!!!

We went over to our buddy's shop and picked up the motor and brought it over to our house. And took some pics.

It's a legit H22A, well so the code says on the engine. The tranny code is an "M2A4" I think.

Soon it'll be time to start a rebuild of it. We'll be ordering some cam gears, crank pulley, water pump & timing belt sometime soon. Along with maybe a nice headgasket also.




Tranny:


It says P13 on the head, and in verious places all over the motor


See, no cam gears! Darn.






I think we need a new crank pulley too. This one is a little cracked as you can see. :(
 
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TeggyBear_Ls

90 EF LS/V 95 DC4
Man you are so lucky...
Yeah, I know.... I've gotta give it up to my buddy with the major hook-ups!
^^^ i agree

good luck with the build
Thanks! Later today, i'll be owning it up with a lot of simple green to freshen up the motor. And do a checking over on it. I might even rip the valve cover off just to check things over.

EDiIT- UPDATES:

Might be ordering some cam gears and a water pump from a guy on PreludePower.com soon.
 
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acclude

cheap bastard
From your pics, you have a regular JDM H22 with the non-LSD trans. IM looks like the stock JDM mani, head has the P13 stamp (ECU code for the non-type-S), and the tranny code of M2A4. It's still a 200HP beast, but not the type-S. For the price you're getting it for, it's still a steal!!!


As for the wiring, yes, use your non-VTEC harness and then run the VTEC solenoid to pin A4 and the VTEC pressure switch to pin D6 at the ECU connections. Any shop manual should have those pinouts if you're not sure where they are. If you have trouble finding them, get back here and I'll post them up.

Some other wires that you may need to wire up:
Knock sensor goes to pin D3 (can be disabled with the P28)
Secondary Intake Solenoid goes to pin A17 (Connect Black/Yellow wire on solenoid to switched ignition, the other to pin A17) This is on the D. Side of the IM and opens the secondary intake runners
and I couldn't tell from your pics, but it looks like you may also have the FPR Solenoid (near the fuel rail close to the IAC). Not all H22's had it but it looks like your might. The FPR Solenoid goes to pin A10 (Connect Black/Yellow on solenoid to switched +12V ignition, the other to pin A10). If you don't have it, just ignore this one.


Sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what you're getting in to. Can't wait to see this thing in action :)
 
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TeggyBear_Ls

90 EF LS/V 95 DC4
From your pics, you have a regular JDM H22 with the non-LSD trans. IM looks like the stock JDM mani, head has the P13 stamp (ECU code for the non-type-S), and the tranny code of M2A4. It's still a 200HP beast, but not the type-S. For the price you're getting it for, it's still a steal!!!


As for the wiring, yes, use your non-VTEC harness and then run the VTEC solenoid to pin A4 and the VTEC pressure switch to pin D6 at the ECU connections. Any shop manual should have those pinouts if you're not sure where they are. If you have trouble finding them, get back here and I'll post them up.

Some other wires that you may need to wire up:
Knock sensor goes to pin D3 (can be disabled with the P28)
Secondary Intake Solenoid goes to pin A17 (Connect Black/Yellow wire on solenoid to switched ignition, the other to pin A17) This is on the D. Side of the IM and opens the secondary intake runners
and I couldn't tell from your pics, but it looks like you may also have the FPR Solenoid (near the fuel rail close to the IAC). Not all H22's had it but it looks like your might. The FPR Solenoid goes to pin A10 (Connect Black/Yellow on solenoid to switched +12V ignition, the other to pin A10). If you don't have it, just ignore this one.


Sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what you're getting in to. Can't wait to see this thing in action :)
Wow, thanks for all the help man!
I'm uploading more pictures now.
The IM does have the dual runner, with the secondary butterfly valves.... Are you sure it's not a TypeS?

It looks like i'm totally missing the FPR also. Which sucks. here's the picture of the Fuel Rail. Also, aren't those the same OBD1 injector plugs like on my OBD1 Integra?
edit- Also, what's the thing in the top right of this picture? It's just hanging off the IM....


Another question I got for ya. What throttle cable will I be able to use? Do you know?

And will BB4 Prelude shift cables work?


UPDATE:




I put on a new un-broken oil cap...


Took off the throttle body, because it was dirty as Hell. And the throttle plate was sticking a little...


Inside the IM


Took off the valve cover to make sure there was stuff under there lol. It all looks in really great condition!



I dropped in some NGk spark plugs


 
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acclude

cheap bastard
The IM does have the dual runner, with the secondary butterfly valves.... Are you sure it's not a TypeS?
So does the regular H22 USDM or JDM. All other signs point to non-type-S so I'm gonna stick with that.

Also, aren't those the same OBD1 injector plugs like on my OBD1 Integra?
Yup! Most sensors and plugs will be the same so you can just swap the harness over (may require some wire lengths to be changed) but you may need to change a few of the plugs on the harness. The injector plugs will work fine ;)

edit- Also, what's the thing in the top right of this picture? It's just hanging off the IM....?
IACV

Another question I got for ya. What throttle cable will I be able to use? Do you know?
As far as I know, your stock throttle cable will work. Might have to get creative with how to mount it, but it should be long enough. If need be, rob one from the 90-97 Accords or 92+ Ludes at a junkyard.

And will BB4 Prelude shift cables work?
Yup! Also 90-97 Accords should work. You might have to get a little creative with the mounting of the shifter assembly and make sure you grab all the washers/clips/bolts/ etc....


As for your FPR, grab one from a 90-97 Accord or 92+ lude from a junkyard or go aftermarket. They all share the same stock 42 PSI FPR's.
 

TeggyBear_Ls

90 EF LS/V 95 DC4
Sweet, my buddy I bought the H22 off of has a couple F22's laying around too. So next time I go over there, i'll just grab an FPR lol.

Okay a couple more question's i've got for the Accord / Lude master Lol.

Can I use the F22 VTEC water pump & distributor? I've already got somebody lined up for a H22 water pump for $20, just want to make sure if I could use a F22 one for free.
 

acclude

cheap bastard
F22Ax Starter - yes

F22Bx Water pump - no

F22Bx distributor - no



I'm not an Accord/Lude master.....but I have used the name acclude for the past 10 years for a reason ;)
 

TeggyBear_Ls

90 EF LS/V 95 DC4
Lol...

Sweet, There's another thing I can rip of my buddy's F22 motor! lol

Okay, a couple more questions to make sure about something I've been getting confused about on Honda-Tech....

Do I need a Lude shifter box along with the linkage? Or will my Integra shifter assembly work?

Do I need a resistor box for the H22A injectors? Somebody told me we would need one. I've actually got one because I've got DSM 450cc Injectors.

Edit- oh and can I use an F22 crank pulley? Mine's cracked and the only aftermarket one's I can find are underdrive pulleys....

UPDATE:

I found an intake for it. It's a 3" aluminum mandrel bent piping. It's actually Injen piping I believe. Next things up are cam gears, a header, new crank pulley, etc.
 
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