s2000 cluster project

orthello

The Dutch Guy
4MHZ is more the enough.

It's able to proces up to 300km/h (max reading of the S2000 cluster)
Problem with higher speed |X|, is timer1 running sooo fast that measuring of input pulse ends up in timer overflow.

Currently with a 1:8 prescaler I'm able to measure a minimum speed of 10 km/h (because of timer1overflow)

Source is now linked in previous post.
 
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yeahsirb16

New Member
hey guys im new to this fourm!
but i have 2000 civic si i put my s2000 cluster in and well it worked except for the MPH... do i need a convertor? if needed i can pay especially if someone makes them for a reasonable price.

here is my newest problem the cluster turned off im thinking bad wiring? well anyways now i have no power going to my cluster wires? and now my car is toatly messed up turning off radio dose not work a/c toatly messes up everything makes the muffler pop.

one of my smarter honda friends who told me i was an idiot for putting it in with out him lol told me that bad relay but most likely grounded out a wire!
please help guys you seem like you know what you talking bout!
 

konerri

New Member
hey guys im new to this fourm!
but i have 2000 civic si i put my s2000 cluster in and well it worked except for the MPH... do i need a convertor? if needed i can pay especially if someone makes them for a reasonable price.

here is my newest problem the cluster turned off im thinking bad wiring? well anyways now i have no power going to my cluster wires? and now my car is toatly messed up turning off radio dose not work a/c toatly messes up everything makes the muffler pop.

one of my smarter honda friends who told me i was an idiot for putting it in with out him lol told me that bad relay but most likely grounded out a wire!
please help guys you seem like you know what you talking bout!
that a problem where you'll have to figure outself. Most likely a fuse has gone bad or during wiring you cut something that wasn't suppose to be cut. As for a converter, i am still in the mist of everything. Still have some bugs to work out and still developing it.
 


yeahsirb16

New Member
alright my friend is going to look at it tomorrow and maybe we will find an answer i hope so!
ill keep yall posted
and as for convertor work them bugs out so i dont have to buy this stupid expensive convertor and wait for who knows how long to get!
 

orthello

The Dutch Guy
Did a road test again this morning. No changes to the hardware or software.
Drove about 25 kilometers when readings became nervous again.
At that point a turned on the fan at full power and at its coolest, blowing over the converter hardware.
Guess what....... readings became more and more stable again.

This is a themperature vs. noise issue for sure.
There is a noise at the input which is very very very close to the upper schmitt trigger treshold.

I received tips and tricks from some people to put capacitors here and there. (I knew I had to play with caps)
Especially at the input to debounce the reed type VSS and elliminate other types of noise.
Although I'm almost sure I don't have bounce issues. If the nervous behavour is a bounce issues it would be a constant problem and wouldn't be temp dependant. Right?

I'll add some capacitors tonight, or tomorrow night at least.
 

yeahsirb16

New Member
ok guys fixed it
alternator fuse blew so messed with everything and blew the cluster fuse but everything works BUT the convertor so i need a convertor what shall i do and Tepmperatur convertor too!
 


orthello

The Dutch Guy
Damn dude.
Look ONE page BACK and you'll find a basic converter including it's software.
Konerri and I are not totally ready yet.

You have Three remaining options.
1) buy a waaaayyy to expencive converter (speedohealer V4 for example)
2) play with the first bits I posted on the previous page of this thread
3) wait till we are ready and we have finisched our write up!

But stop pushing us. You seem to be in such a hurry that I get a bit annoyed, Sorry.
 

konerri

New Member
switch bounce issues...i remember them from a the embeded class. It can be solved with software for some applications maybe even this one. let me look that this issue and try to find some old code for U.
 

orthello

The Dutch Guy
Made a recording of the input signal. There is bounce, but in my opinion not much. What do think.
There are 2ms of bounce.
Signal is a 50Hz signal generated by the old school reed style VSS :D

 

orthello

The Dutch Guy
WATER WATER WATER!!!
Man it was so #^@^@$%^hot in the car! DAMN!

But it was worth it. The VSS converter is working without any form of strange behaviour.
Cold, warm, HOT.... no issue anymore.
Other forms of noise, like turning on/off lights, high beam, rear window defogger, window whipers, no issue. Just perfect. (still have to set the multiplier to 39 though)

I added same caps and resistors to debounce the VSS and filter other forms of noise. And it works!

So... next step.... extencive road testing

And working out the ECT stuff.
konerri you got the ECT working right? Can you create scope readings like I did in my previous post?
I'd like to see the signal the ECT bar is receiving when engine is warm. (so just a few bars are lit)

I've been playing wit a 50% 5v square signal @ 60Hz to 4kHz without ant result (only a full or empty ECT bar) Also tried with PWM. But with just one base frequency. And with PWM signals not only the duty cycle but also the base frequency is important.

Next week I'll do a drive-by at the Honda dealer around the corner to ask if I can do some measurments on an S2000 in their showroom.
 
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konerri

New Member
i shold of written down the specs for the ect module. i remember the high pulse width having the same time but the low was the one that was extendind back andforth. but let me see later
 

orthello

The Dutch Guy
Working through the official S2000 WorkShop Manual.

You were looking for an RC network in the gauge for VSS, right? (Somewhere back in January 2008)
You didn't find that because it is in the S2000 VSS itself. According to the official Honda docs.

And this is what the doc states about ECT and VSS signals:

At ECU
Terminal: A1
Wire: YEL/GRN
Name: MTRTW
Desc: Sends ECT signal to ECT gauge
Signal: With ignition switch ON (II): duty controlled

Terminal: A9
Wire: BLU/WHT
Name: VSS
Desc: Vehicle speed sensor signal
Signal: Depending on vehicle speed: pulses


BTW.... I had contact with the dealer near my work. Thay have an AP1 in the showroom. They are willing to let me measure the ECT signal from ECU to gauge. YEHAAAA
I'm going to make a recording of the signal with my laptop, so I can review it when I'm home.
 
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