RIP "blue" v.2.0 (MASSIVE BUILD TO COME)

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
So, I started working on the car today :)

Now, the swap I picked up comes complete with its original engine harness, etc. I need to know what these wires are for:


.
Eh... Jake...

Those wires look like they would go to the sensor seen in the picture, with the snipped wires. Thats what Endo was talking about. Its there on the left intake runner.
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
yeah, i confirmed it last week :)

now, I'm curious if there are any other pics of the Innovative Cable-to-Hydro kit installed out there.
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
So, I got to work on the car today

Managed to get this much done...


came out without a hitch :)

DIRTY bay (it's been about 3 years since I've cleaned it, let alone detailed it)


Got the cross-member notched for the 4-1 header, and the old bracket for the front engine mount was cut out, too. Don't need it anymore ;) (no pics of this, sorry)

Next up, tomorrow, will be hitting the bay with some Simple Green (thanks for the idea, DAve) and cleaning the hell out of it. after the bay is cleaned extensively, I'd like to get a mild tuck done, to include the headlight harnesses, etc. Weather might not be on my side this week, so its looking like its gonna be a 50/50 shot of that getting done (I have to work outside, I don't have a garage to work in at the moment) I'm gonna hit the cross-members with some fresh black paint to make them look nice. Once everything is cleaned up (should only be a day's work to get it where I want it, then the B18C will be on it's way in.

I still need to prep the motor to go in. Need to grab the driver's side motor mount bracket from the LS, I also need to remove the power steering pump and AC setup from the B18C, as I no longer use either. Then, It'll be ready to go in. All of the aforementioned parts, including the LS will be posted up for sale, soon. So, keep a lookout for the thread in the classified section.

Now, what can I eliminate from the bay before the B18C goes in. Can I eliminate the map sensor and the related vacuum lines on the firewall, or no? It doesn't look like B18C has provisions for all those vacuum lines.

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ninja edit
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btw, the infamous "b1tch pin" on the shift linkage, was VERY easy to get out, thank goodness. Had a small punch, that was just about the right size, took a hammer and some persuasion, and out she popped. Whole affair was less than 5 minutes :) hardest part was finding the right size bit to use to tap it out, lol.
 


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imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
will do. still wanna try to come up this way? there's food in it for ya ;) you and Paden are both invited to help. I don't go back to work until the 6th of April :)
 

8urcivic

ONLY couches pull out!!!!
my new job has me working graveyard and weekend. gonna be difficult for me to even leave Richmond.
 


8urcivic

ONLY couches pull out!!!!
havent even had time to install danas fogs, camber kit or short shifter.


being an adult sucks.
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
So, today, I:
*Pulled the JDM engine harness, in it's entirety (thanks, Glynn *BLKACK1* for the telephone support)
*Removed the power steering pump and AC system from the motor.
*Removed the entire Hydraulic setup (kept the dust cover, though)
*Cleaned up the motor a bit.
*Removed what was left of the power steering lines that were attached to the rear cross member that I couldn't get off when I did the power steering delete.
*Pulled LS throttle cable.
*Deleted firewall MAP sensor.
*Deleted the hard lines that connected the valve cover to intake tube, as well as the lines that run coolant from the upper radiator hose to the one under the IM.
*Took out the rear motor mount (which I left after I pulled the motor, just focused on other stuff after it came out, and I initially forgot it.) The rear bolt was ridiculous :(
*Replaced the vacuum line that went from the fuel pressure regulator that T'd into the IAB vacuum source.

Question, though. The speedometer cable from the LS is cable/mechanical. The setup on the B18C's transmission is electrical. How can I get the factory speedometer cable to work with this transmission? I NEED this to work correctly, and I don't have the time/funds/resources to swap in a GS-R cluster to make the electrical conversion, so that is OUT OF THE QUESTION.
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EDIT
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Also, not sure what it's called, but the lever that operates the clutch on the transmission (that protrudes out of the case) is doing something weird. When I removed the hydraulic setup, I checked the play on the lever, and when I push the lever back (as if I was depressing the clutch), it goes back fine, but doesn't automatically retract back to the original position. Is this normal? I'd hate to be driving, push in the clutch, and when I let the clutch out, the clutch not engage due to the lever not coming back to its natural "resting" position.
Make sense? is this normal because the car isn't under load or being driven? or is it faulty?
 
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imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
So, today, I spent the majority of the day cleaning the engine bay. The driver's side of the bay had a lot of built up axle grease from when an old axle busted the boot and sprayed it everywhere.

I had some extra paint so I did some touch up spots in the engine bay. I thought I had ran out of paint, but then I remember that I still had about half a pint of paint left over. So, weather permitting, I'll be mixing the rest of the paint, and finishing the rest of the bay :)

Also, I wired up the Rywire VTEC sub-harness to the P72 ECU. So, the wiring is done. Just need to hook everything back up, and put the B18C in :) Can't wait. It'll be done in no time.
 

imcnblu

Resident G2 Guru of C-I
lol. phone is taking horrible pics at the moment, heading to the Verizon store to see if they will replace the phone, or at least figure out what's wrong. and my oldest daughter lost our REAL camera. A $500 Nikon... 4 year olds. LOVE 'EM!
 
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