randomhobo
automagic user
I'm in for this one,
Anyone else ever thought of trying to fit the awd into a teg
Anyone else ever thought of trying to fit the awd into a teg
My Current Side Project - 1998 Honda CRV - V-Sauce inside
- Thread starter Integraguy04
- Start date
Charly[horse]
Name = John
^I think I have seen actual kits that bolt onto the teg to fit the rear diff. Super pricey though.
xZachTheRipper8
New Member
looks badass! uh for the head studs that striped out, did you think about trying to drill the holes out and helocoil it? Its a lot stronger then trying to just rethread it, I had to do it on my exhaust studs because they striped out. its easy to do
uh for the head studs that striped out, did you think about trying to drill the holes out and helocoil it? Its a lot stronger then trying to just rethread it, I had to do it on my exhaust studs because they striped out. its easy to doIntegraguy04
CORNER CARVER
looks badass!
I did think about it but after calling a few shops they said that won't hold the pressure of head studs
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xZachTheRipper8
New Member
well hey at least you thought about it ahah! but makes sense.
randomhobo
automagic user
JB weld that shit son
JKJKJKJK, that sucks though, I can't remember the other option to helicoil, it's essentially the same thing but somehow different and works better/it's stronger
JKJKJKJK, that sucks though, I can't remember the other option to helicoil, it's essentially the same thing but somehow different and works better/it's stronger
Integraguy04
CORNER CARVER
Yeah I don't remember it either - but whatever it won't be that bad if we have to replace the block - this crv has 320.000 miles on it lol
The block still holds compression but based on the numbers you can tell it has lost a little over time
Think the numbers were around 150-160 psi
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Integraguy04
CORNER CARVER
Well... We attempted to re-thread the block and we think it worked - out of the 10 holes, Atleast half were really screwed up.
We screwed in all the head studs and they all held in so later on this week we are going to try and tighten it down.
I'll post some pics once the head is on.
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We screwed in all the head studs and they all held in so later on this week we are going to try and tighten it down.
I'll post some pics once the head is on.
Sent from my iPhone 4S
Integraguy04
CORNER CARVER
Sooooo this car has been a huge PITA....
We re-threaded the block and everything seemed to work fine, until we tried to tighten down the head studs..
For some reason when we tightened down the nut for the head studs it would just back the stud out of the block - not really sure why but it did. So after all of this me and my buddy just said F*ck it and we put a used b20 block that he had lying around in it to match it with a B20 head he had as well.
It has taken us a few weeks to get everything done but there is light at the end of the tunnel for now - most of it is assembled and it runs...just have a few minor things to do and it will be driving.
We have added a new torque converter to it (he is keeping it auto for now), Blox IM with hondata IM gasket, new thermostat, water pump, Gates Timing Belt.
My friend is going to be doing new brakes, ball joints as well in the front as the current ones look pretty bad.
We also have a check engine light for crank position sensor - since this B20 block does not have one we have to bypass it and have that run off of the cylinder position sensor.
Here is the motor in the engine bay.
We re-threaded the block and everything seemed to work fine, until we tried to tighten down the head studs..
For some reason when we tightened down the nut for the head studs it would just back the stud out of the block - not really sure why but it did. So after all of this me and my buddy just said F*ck it and we put a used b20 block that he had lying around in it to match it with a B20 head he had as well.
It has taken us a few weeks to get everything done but there is light at the end of the tunnel for now - most of it is assembled and it runs...just have a few minor things to do and it will be driving.
We have added a new torque converter to it (he is keeping it auto for now), Blox IM with hondata IM gasket, new thermostat, water pump, Gates Timing Belt.
My friend is going to be doing new brakes, ball joints as well in the front as the current ones look pretty bad.
We also have a check engine light for crank position sensor - since this B20 block does not have one we have to bypass it and have that run off of the cylinder position sensor.
Here is the motor in the engine bay.
Integraguy04
CORNER CARVER
Integraguy04
CORNER CARVER
Thanks! We started it and drove it today only issue is we used a b20 block without a crank position sensor so it runs like dog shit
Most likely we are going to have to switch the oil pumps out from the old block so we can mount the CFS.
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endo617
Rattle Can Technician
Jump it to the distributor from the ecu
Integraguy04
CORNER CARVER
Already tried that lol - we jumped the cylinder position sensor to it thinking that it would work but it does not.
I found a how to on the internet and apparently it works some times and doesn't sometimes.
Prolly better we do it the right way any wase
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