More power for my 94 LS

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Yea you need to listen to TegSox, there's really no point in buying alot of those parts you listed, and if anything you'll lose power with those cams if you don't touch the bottom end.
 

94tegaz

New Member
Your not going to get the power you expect out of those cams unless you raise your compression substantially. The only way to do that is with some aftermarket pistons. Do you have any plans on building the bottom end? If no, I can lead you on a better path as far as which parts to buy than what you have planned right now.
Well my first and major problem is
I dont know what to buy for this car its my first Honda/Acura
and the first car Im really getting into performance stuff with
my other 5 cars where all for show and sh!t nothing really done to the engine besides intakes

Like when it comes to body work,suspension,systems,rims, INT',EXT' stuff
Im all good with that I know sh!t about that stuff
but when it comes to engine stuff I'm like ................wow turbo cool......lol
I mean i know some sh!t about the basic engine but not alot to the point of what
can I change to make it better
its sad i been reading alot about this stuff and want to learn more
about the engine performance but some what clueless you know?

Yeah Thats what I want to do is build up the whole engine,
Just I'm not sure about how to go about it like what parts to
buy and what really works compare to whats just out there to buy you know?
so what are the parts I need to build my bottom-end?

also which way can you lead me into helping me to make my car better?

also I think going NA on a DD is better and if I can get around 140-160 HP to the wheels I should be fine
and it should be somewhat-easy on a Integra right?



id go with the b16 head....ls-v can be very reliable if done right....heres the best write up i found>>>

http://b20vtec.com/forums/b-series-tech/56400-how-build-reliable-lsvtec-b20vtec-guide.html

weight reduction is a huge plus no matter how people say its pointless cuz a couple of pounds here and there add up, u can lose some weight while maintaining daily comforts, for example cruise control(who actually uses that shit?) sound deadining tar in trunk floor is a good 15lbs(i like to hear my car), metal sheet in glove box door (2 pounds for something useless)
Well I was thinking about the LS-V but I dont know yet
I think I rather stay LS then once my motors goes do a GSR swap
my motor only has 60-70,000 on it
so thats going to be a grip before I even have to worry about a new engine

I'm glad you're going NA. I met this guy who has a LS with a JRSC. He dynoed it and came up with 140-ishwhp. I felt bad cuz he spent over $2000 and my DB8 still has more power. All in all, I don't care about the 1/4 mile. I'm all about corners.
Yeah I was all about the corners in my mazda 6 I had bomb ass suspention set up in that car some basic performance parts plus alot of susp' but it felt so good hitting corners in it.

whats done to your DB8?
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Well imo to hit 160 in an LS your going to have to raise the compression with some pistons, and then you'll need some cams to go along with them. I would assume you should also upgrade your valve springs. Me personally, I wouldn't mess with making an N/A LS, you need to pass emmisions and I think you could do it with a turbo kit. If you were to pick up a small turbo kit, set it up so it recirculates, have an internal wastegate, and get it tuned with a hondata or whatever, also run a good new cat that does it's job, you should be able to pull close to 200whp and it will be more reliable then it would be with the pistons and cams and you'll be able to pass emmisions easy.

See I can build a nice quiet turbo setup and have it all painted black and even cover the turbo up when you go in for emmisions. I mean all they're going to do is a visual inspection and a gas cap check, those are pretty easy to pass. If you put new pistons and cams in you'll have to rip your motor apart and you'll still need to get it tuned and then who knows if it will pass emmisions. At least this way big deal, you unbolt the manifold, a couple pipes, an oil line, and return it to normal, then go back down and have it pass. Also after it does pass you can just bolt the turbo kit back up again and have fun for another year, and imo that's alot easier then ripping your motor apart because it wouldn't pass.
 


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jason.az1

I'm lost!
cant log into my accoun 94tegaz because it says my email/password is wrong so I took over my brothers username so this is my new user name so yeah
 

jason.az1

I'm lost!
Hey guys so far I havent bought any performance parts yet,
been shopping around for the cheapest prices
""FUJITA CAI-$125.00
skunk2 coil-overs- sleeve overs 220.00 full 525.00
Skunk2 camber kit
front $140.00
rear$135.00
Skunk2 Pro Series intake manifold $200.00
Braincrower cams $300
Skunk2 Pro Series cam gears $180.00
SKunk2 Pro Series valve springs $180.00
Skunk2 Pro series titanium retainers $140.00
Skunk2 68mm throttle body $210.00
Skunk2 short shifter $90.00
skunk2 knob $30.00
skunk2 strut bars and rear tiebar- STRUT BAR'S $110.00 TIE BAR $90.00
""

but I was wondering do Throttle Body Spacer do anything for the integra?
my firend just put one on his new charger with a I/H/E and it seems to help
but then again its a v8 hemi compared to the LS

what you guys think? also do the TBS for a gsrb18c1 work on the b18b1? I cant find any TBS for the LS

thx
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Usually no, i've never really heard of any gains from spacers, they're usually for helping with torque (I might be wrong) so I believe if anything they would kill some topend in the process. I wouldn't bother. About the sensor, not sure if they're the same but I have a few LS ones laying around if you need one.
 

jason.az1

I'm lost!
A CAI will help more during launch and low RPM's vs. a SRI, because it'll be sucking in cooler air than a SRI when the car isn't moving. Also, CAI tubing is of a smaller diameter than SRI's, which helps speed up the flow of air at these lower RPM's vs. the short ram.....but on the other hand, the SRI has the advantage at the higher RPM's because of it's larger diameter tubing, it can supply the engine with more air than the thinner tubing of the CAI can.
Now if I got that AEM v2 doesnt that intake have the best of both worlds?
Or does v2 work just like any other intake just like the FUJITA CAI.

A high flow cat. Get at least a 2.25 inch,
Now since my pipes are 2.36 inches and Im not sure
if I have a high flow cat will one really make a difference?
is there a way I can tell?

___________________________________________________________________________
Okay here's where I am at right now I can buy any of these parts
but not sure what to get first also how hard is it to install them
Also are these good prices they are the cheapest I've found.

FUJITA CAI-$125.00<- easy I know how to install.
Skunk2 Pro Series intake manifold $200.00 <- how hard is it to install?
Skunk2 68mm throttle body $210.00<- is that to big also how hard to install?
Skunk2 short shifter $90.00<- seems easy my friend owns a tranny shop and they can help.
skunk2 knob $30.00<- easy to install.

I'm really leaning on buying the Intake manifold, throttle body and the CAI
but not sure how hard it is to install. I've search and stuff most of them are for GSR
not LS is there anything I need to buy besides the IM,TB? i saw somewhere about a tbcable kit or something
also should I notice any difference after installing them? and will the CAI fit in the skunk2?

thanks alot
 

DeaconWagers

car in progress
i wouldn't worry with the im and the tb, if i remember correctly, you don't see much gain with these until you're really making some power. the easiest way to make your goal of 160whp is a gsr swap. you could do it with the ls, but engine work is a pain in the ass, where as 160whp is attainable with a bolt-on equipped gsr. someone correct me if i'm wrong.
 

jason.az1

I'm lost!
i wouldn't worry with the im and the tb, if i remember correctly, you don't see much gain with these until you're really making some power. the easiest way to make your goal of 160whp is a gsr swap. you could do it with the ls, but engine work is a pain in the ass, where as 160whp is attainable with a bolt-on equipped gsr. someone correct me if i'm wrong.
I dont want to do a swap or turbo or SC' or n02 well maybe but not at the moment

also i dont really care about the 160whp goal anymore I just want a nice/quick DD thats quicker then what i have now...

so the IM/TB doesnt do much? wont it allow me to bring in more air?
then with the i/h/e/im/tb my car inhaling/exhaling enough to make somewhat good power right or am I wrong?
lol need help confuss :???:
 

jason.az1

I'm lost!
so guys how hard would you say its a easy job to install like a intake/header or should i have a shop do it
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
Intake and a header are easy to so install. I wouldn't bother with paying someone to do it.
 
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