sleeper_gsr
New Member
i wanna get my gsr to push a max of at least 22 psi. im going to build the bottom end out and sleeve it.... would i need to build out the head as well or is it possible to run on only a built bottom end?
high boost!
- Thread starter sleeper_gsr
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Alvi84
New Member
From my research but don't quote me because not only am I N/A but I have never put together or owned a turbo but I'm sure with the additional force you will be putting on the components you would see much more reliability if you were to at least upgrade the springs and retainers. Also I'm sure you will benefit more from a more aggressive set of cams and we all know that air flow (port and polish) increases output for boost.
I'm sure some of the turbo'd members can chime in with their experience.
I'm sure some of the turbo'd members can chime in with their experience.
Prozon
Kris
If you start running around saying you want to run 22psi you're going to get flamed.
How much power are you trying to make here? Typically I never see people sleeve the block unless they're trying to make big numbers. (450 minimum.) I've seen up to 600-700 on stock sleeves. With that being said, it never hurts to sleeve the block if you have an extra $1000 sitting around.
Usually people upgrade the valvetrain as a precaution when they build high revving-high horsepower motors.. which is sounds like you want to do. I've actually never seen a horsepower limit put on the valvetrain- it's usually upgraded when people want to rev higher. As a GSR, it's already somewhat better for revving higher then the LS motors, but I guess it all depends on the setup and what RPM's your going to redline at?
Hmm, i've honestly never thought about this. You should be fine with the GSR's stock red line though, assuming your not trying to push 1000hp or something crazy. (Then again you would be doing some head work too lol.)
Post up your build specs and pictures of your car! (Curiosity.)
How much power are you trying to make here? Typically I never see people sleeve the block unless they're trying to make big numbers. (450 minimum.) I've seen up to 600-700 on stock sleeves. With that being said, it never hurts to sleeve the block if you have an extra $1000 sitting around.
Usually people upgrade the valvetrain as a precaution when they build high revving-high horsepower motors.. which is sounds like you want to do. I've actually never seen a horsepower limit put on the valvetrain- it's usually upgraded when people want to rev higher. As a GSR, it's already somewhat better for revving higher then the LS motors, but I guess it all depends on the setup and what RPM's your going to redline at?
Hmm, i've honestly never thought about this. You should be fine with the GSR's stock red line though, assuming your not trying to push 1000hp or something crazy. (Then again you would be doing some head work too lol.)
Post up your build specs and pictures of your car! (Curiosity.)
sleeper_gsr
New Member
ok cool. im trying to push somewere in between 500 and 650...... imstill alil new to the boost game but i do understand that i must build the head somewhat for those kind of results. o and if anyone needs an ls vtec swap im selling one for $700. all its missing is one piston and a valve cover. its a complete head and its also missing a vtec solenoid.
Prozon
Kris
I'm currently planning out a 500hp build, my build sheet is around ten grand right now.. and that's without cams or a turbo.. or a ton of other little stuff.
Think about it, the transmission needs some upgrades to handle that, a limited slip diff is really important- about $700 for an aftermarket one. The CV axles are going to run you about $1,100. The rods, pistons, sleeves, rings, bearings and machine work are probably going to be $3000-4000. Port and polish the head, upgraded cams, valvesprings+retainers- another $1000+
500whp is a big goal, and don't expect that to be a friendly street driven car. I expect you're building it for the drag strip? It's possible to hit 500whp on pump gas, but it's not very fun- running race gas is probably a good idea. Upgraded ignition, fuel system, motor mounts, suspension..
It's a spendy build. Assuming this is your first boost build, I advise you to set your sights a "little" lower if you want to drive this car on the street.
There's a little thing called "Torque Steer" too lol.
If you have any questions about the specifics let us know, but just know 500whp is a HUGE goal, that will cost a lot of money, and requires a great tune.
Think about it, the transmission needs some upgrades to handle that, a limited slip diff is really important- about $700 for an aftermarket one. The CV axles are going to run you about $1,100. The rods, pistons, sleeves, rings, bearings and machine work are probably going to be $3000-4000. Port and polish the head, upgraded cams, valvesprings+retainers- another $1000+
500whp is a big goal, and don't expect that to be a friendly street driven car. I expect you're building it for the drag strip? It's possible to hit 500whp on pump gas, but it's not very fun- running race gas is probably a good idea. Upgraded ignition, fuel system, motor mounts, suspension..
It's a spendy build. Assuming this is your first boost build, I advise you to set your sights a "little" lower if you want to drive this car on the street.
There's a little thing called "Torque Steer" too lol.
If you have any questions about the specifics let us know, but just know 500whp is a HUGE goal, that will cost a lot of money, and requires a great tune.
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sleeper_gsr
New Member
she will end up being my drag car once i get my mk3 supra
DaddyBuiltRacing
Resident Asshole
Hope you got about 20k laying around cause you're gonna end up spending close to that if you choose to do it the right way, ask me how I know 
Top end makes all the power, bottom end just has to hang on for the ride. I would build both and have power and reliability
Top end makes all the power, bottom end just has to hang on for the ride. I would build both and have power and reliability
Prozon
Kris
Josh is right. My build sheet is somewhere around 10-12k, and I think if I keep it under 20k I will be happy, chances are it will cost me more. And that's not paying a shop to do all the work, I do all my own assembly, so if you're planning on paying a shop to do everything.. add at least a few thousand more onto that total.
superhypered
(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
LMK. I dont know if you're selling a partial engine? But I'd like the vtec parts... Possibly. Still trying to research it more one day.. But I dont know what vtec is like...
stillhere153
HondEducated
$10k...?... thats wat spent on 2.0liter b18b/b16 head track motor aloneHope you got about 20k laying around cause you're gonna end up spending close to that if you choose to do it the right way, ask me how I know
WERD
Top end makes all the power, bottom end just has to hang on for the ride. I would build both and have power and reliability
bottom end to hold that power $3500-4000
top to make power throughout power band $3000
turbo mani $600-800 (ramhorn or topmount)
turbo $1000
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DaddyBuiltRacing
Resident Asshole
Yeah exactly you haven't figured in a built transmission, fuel system, tuning, fuel management, all your turbo parts, suspension to help get the power to the pavement, wheels/tires, odds and ends that you'll forget to put on your list and then say oh shit I forgot I needed those or that lol.