Maybe but I plan on doing motor too lol... plus ud all still be gay so its kind of a win win for me
Yea I thought it looked like good quality and what all else would I need? I got a pretty good list go n but if you wanna make one so I know what I'm missing that'd be cool :rocker:
Well heres what I had, I pieced together my kit but heres all what you want to do to properly turbo a car, and not run into any bumps down the road
(prior to doing this about 5,000 miles before I had put on a timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and all seals around the timing belt.)
-Since I had a little single cam I bought a Used turbo off an evo
-Log manifold
-Adapter plate for evo to t3 manifold
-vacuum lines
-Oil lines (feed and return)
-Oil line T fitting adapter
-440cc RC fuel injectors
-Hondata/Omni map sensor (4bar)
-Hondata S300 installed in a obd1 p28 ECU (I was OBD2 so you have to go down in order to use hondata)
-Intercooler and piping kit
-ARP headstuds
-Had a custom downpipe made (only did this because I pieced together my kit and an evo turbo flange isnt very common
-tial 38mm wastegate
-Greddy Type RS blow off valve
-air filter
-ARP headstuds
-OEM honda Headgasket (works just fine with head studs, some people get the cometic 3 layer headgasket but OEM, works on mild applications)
-Dyno tuning time (mine only took around 2-3 Hours since it was just jumping from 130 WHP - 240HP)
-Oil pan/oil pan gasket (you only need a new oil pan if you want to have a oil pan that already has a oil return line bung welded into it, or you can just buy the bung for like $5 and weld it onto your oem pan)
-I already had 2.5" exhaust, which is small for a B series boosted engine, but I only had a 1.6L d series
-Competition Clutch (your stock clutch, or a brand new stock clutch will begin slipping relatively quickly after being boosted... Yes even at only 200 WHP a stock clutch will slip.) save yourself some time, and install it before you boost your car, so you dont have to be uninstalling your whole turbo kit when you need to drop the tranny out for a clutch.
-And you cant forget 5 quarts of oil and an OEM filter lol
***** I highly recommend against tuning with and piggyback products such as Apexi VAFC etc. Just spend the money on a Hondata s300 unit, or have hondata s300 installed into your ecu if you're already OBD1.
Heres a link w/ pics to my old boosted coupe:
http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2387436
THE 3 main things people forget when thinking about boosting their car is:
-DYNO tuning which can be relatively pricey (usually a $90+/hour... But not sure Haven't had a car tuned in a while)
-Hondata/engine management which is around $725 installed already in a ECU so you can keep your stock ecu, or sell it.
-Fuel injectors
(also I trailered my car to get it tuned and didn't even turn it on until the shop was tuning it on a dyno. The reason for this is so I didnt melt pistons on the way to the shop because I was running so lean). Some people just drive their car, and do go into boost, but idk I would rather not take any chances and just trailer the car or tow it
I bought everything brand new except the turbo, but once I bought the turbo, I had it rebuilt by a turbo rebuilder.
Some people might ask why I didnt build the internals like rods, pistons, studs etc. But I researched the amount of horspower a stock D series single cam motor can hold reliably and it was around 250-260 HP. So with that being the case, I told the shop that tuned my car to tune to around 240HP, which ended up being around 11PSI on the little evo turbo, and the car was very reliable. I drove it for 30,000+ miles boosted, and only did oil changes....
