B18b or B20...What would Jesus do?

Zenmachine

New Member
No replacment for hip displacment..

Ok so...

Firstly, you're saying that if I do the b20 I AM going to have some wiring issues ya? (OBD0 vs OBD2)
Are they hard to overcome? (Aprox. shop time?)

Secondly I cant get B20z's yet at my JDM dealer unfortunately. (I checked) And the best price I got on a USDM B20z was like 1100. So Im talkin about a JDMB20b. (Its the same exact price as the B18b - $550)

I live in Vancouver BC so Cali emissions are not a problem. We dont care about our air here. :p

AS for VTEC heads, cams and yada yada. Its good that those are options in the future but right now Im tryna keep the costs as low as I can while getting a trouble-free running motor. So as OminousG2 is saying, just a Intake, DC header, and exhaust. Oh and of course my ECU is chipped. Will that be a prob with the OBD thing? Hell, either JDM motor and the headers alone are going to give me almost 20 more horses than my stock 90 B18a. (Lets say 10 for the B18b, 5 for JDM and 5 for headers)

One more Q for all those fellas talkin about top end power...Isnt Horsepower just a mathmatical calculation based on torque, bore and stroke or sumthin? Doesnt that mean no matter what the top end is i would STILL get there quicker with more torque at lower rpms?

*Goes to see if Moses is any good at math*

Thanks for the info kids...
 

ltrain

New Member
im sure u might have some luck with the b20z at some junkyards... yards dont usually advertise those because there unaware of the swaps people do to them
 

Kuchtaboy

Unregistered User
You will have to do some wiring, but to obd-1, not obd-2 (I think)

There are how-to's online for what you need to do, and you could do everything yourself if you wanted, but as for shop time, they might charge you a bit..

You were right about the horsepower thing, but they're just saying where the engine will pull. 4-bangers "like" it better up top, so pulling from below isn't normally what our little motors do. Yes, you'll feel more in the lower rpms, but you might be disapointed with what the upper end has to offer when you get up there, know what I mean?

as for 20 hp out of bolt-ons, you might be aiming alittle too high with that.. lol
 


Ominous G2

┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
All you will need to do is buy the jumper harness and run wires to your O2 sensor. They make the distributor jumper harness, so it shouldnt be that bad.
 

mattrt09

Senior Member
Kuchtaboy said:
You will have to do some wiring, but to obd-1, not obd-2 (I think)

There are how-to's online for what you need to do, and you could do everything yourself if you wanted, but as for shop time, they might charge you a bit..

You were right about the horsepower thing, but they're just saying where the engine will pull. 4-bangers "like" it better up top, so pulling from below isn't normally what our little motors do. Yes, you'll feel more in the lower rpms, but you might be disapointed with what the upper end has to offer when you get up there, know what I mean?

as for 20 hp out of bolt-ons, you might be aiming alittle too high with that.. lol
Click to expand...
true

my old DA with a b18 had amazing top end and walked any b2o in the top end



if want a realy cheap alternative why not just buy another 18a?? then run pretty dang good
 

Zenmachine

New Member
JDM means more horses true or false?

Well the b18a's are only a hundred bucks cheaper than a b18b. (gonna check tht again) As well the JDM dealer near me doesnt sell b18a. Just b18b. So Im going to forego the b20, and stick with the b18b. That was I have no wiring probs..and i get to keep the top end.

As for the horsepower gains..I meant the 90 b18a only puts out 130HP. So i will gain 10 JUST by switching to the b20b. (Or the 92 b18a) And I hear the JDM's have more horsepower than the USDA's. Is that true? I have heard 10 more so I said 5 for that..And then 5 exta HP for all the boltons...Chip, exhaust, header and intake. Thats reasonable no?

To be honet my stock 18a with only a chip, exhaust, intake and no cat was beating my mechanics gsr through 2 full gears and most of the third. He always shook his head and said.."thats a really good chip you have" lol
 


Ominous G2

┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
All B18Bs are obd1, so you will have to some wiring. Unless you convert the motor to OBD0, I personally would convert the car to OBD1
 

thedb63

New Member
would there be no wiring if you took all the parts off your b18a and ran it on a b18b......?
 

Zenmachine

New Member
Ok now im confused :p

Ok lets say im going with a b18b, cuz Im pretty sure I am. I'd do the b20 but only th z not the b. (6lbs/feet of low end torque hardly seems worth it.)

Is any of this OBD 0-1 stuff going to effect my current chipped ecu? I dunno...The guys at the JDM place seem to think its a straight easy swap no wiring diff.

Thanks again guys for all the help
 

Zenmachine

New Member
Ecu

Yunno...Unfortunately i have no idea. I had someone do the chip almost 5 years ago when i bought the car. All I know is it improved top end power like a MoFo and made me guzzle gas if I drive in high rpm's all the time. Couldn't be happier with it lol

Any chance I can remove that chip and put it in the new ECU?
 
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mattrt09

Senior Member
Zenmachine said:
As for the horsepower gains..I meant the 90 b18a only puts out 130HP. So i will gain 10 JUST by switching to the b20b.
Click to expand...
Stock my old 18 made 110 to the wheels. With header, intake, cat back, plugs, plug wires, new cap and rotor, and port matched throttle body. it made 135

it was an auto and i could take si's and hang well with gsr's

i would go with the 18 to i think its a good choice.

but i do think your correct, i think the JDM motors make more power but arent legal in some states because they emit to much of somethin.....im not really sure
 
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