B-series coil on plug

TheMyth

Member
This where having the cop would have solved my problem with this tune session. We had to stop tuning due to the distributor ignition couldn't keep up with this particular setup. And the plugs where gapped .028.


This was from my D16Z6 sohc vtec that I built while being bored. Stock z6 cam, 57trim t3/t4 Garrett w/.63ar hotside, Arias 9:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Supertech v/s/r's, port/polish by me, etc......
 
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TheMyth

Member
If you are running Hondata s300, you can run their CPR coil on plug setup.. If AEM can't get my ems fixed where the a/c works, then I'll be moving to the CPR setup. Check that out if you are already using the s300. Doesn't matter if you have version 1 or 2.
 

96LSteg

Jemel
I'm not running s300 or anything like that right now. I have my stock ass b18a1 lol but I am doing an all motor setup and would like to incorporate this into my build. Plus from what I've read so far you get a way better spark with these COPs


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TheMyth

Member
I understand. And yes, you will get a better spark repeatedly with "coil on plugs" than having a single coil.
 

96LSteg

Jemel
just read up on the hondata CPR...so it just hooks unto the dizzy vs replacing it with the AEM component like you did?
 

TheMyth

Member
Oh no. You can't use the AEM epm with Hondata...
 


96LSteg

Jemel
i mean the piece that replaces the dizzy with the AEM kit

edit: just found out what the EPM was
 
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TheMyth

Member
Lol. OK. Look on hondata.com and check out s300 accessories. Then CPR should be in that listing. And there is instructions in there..
Like modding some of the connections in the distributor, taking the coil and rotor button out, etc.....
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
TheMyth said:
This where having the cop would have solved my problem with this tune session. We had to stop tuning due to the distributor ignition couldn't keep up with this particular setup. And the plugs where gapped .028.
Click to expand...
What was the outcome with this turbo D series? I dont agree with that assessment. When spark energy is insufficient you will see it as RPM increases not in the middle like that. As engine speed increases the charge time of the coil decreases while the cylinder pressure is increasing demanding too much from the ignition system. Usually when I see something goofy like that in the middle of the RPM band its a timing signal issue or interference/wiring issue.
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
I wouldn't mind running those with mine, I bet I'd get some good gains but I don't think I can run them with Hondata?

EDIT: So I just read this page and saw all the shit about the cpr or whatever. :lol:
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
I dont think youd see any gains NA. Not unless you are running absurd compression or alternative fuels.
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
13+:1 IDK either but my timing does get a little erratic at real high rpms, I thought maybe it was the distributor.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Yes it’s probably the distributor but not the spark side of it, it’s the timing side. Magnetic pickups stink at high rpm. They are also very susceptible to RF interference which increases with RPM too. Timing wanders so much that stock ECU rom editors have built in compensation tables for it.

You can try a different distributor (OEM only!), sometimes you get lucky with different sensors. Also make sure you are running resistor plugs. Spark plugs are a big cause of RF interference which is why we need to run resistor plugs when using the stock distributor.

The ultimate setup is a hall effect cam trigger or the AEM EPM which uses an optical trigger wheel. You have to go digital to get a clean timing signal at high rpm.
 
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