NemesisCBR
Boredest Member
Kits arent hard to adjust. Im just trying to provide additional info on kit usage. There may be stuff i didnt explain.
^.^Anything Goes Chat for Noobies!^.^
- Thread starter G3GirL
- Start date
NemesisCBR
Boredest Member
Let me see if you understand correctly what people usually refer to when stanced. At least, imo its low offset and/or wide wheels. You cant really 'stance' regular or normal sized wheels. The reason that car can sit like that is because he has low offset and probably wider wheels that if not cambered in more, would sit/stick out beyond the fender at the top. Stockish wheels cant do this. If you try to flush the top of the wheel with the fender your wheel wont look like that because the bottom isnt pivoting out. It will appear more straight up and down. If you camber it anyway you will have the top of the wheel sit well inside the fender to get the bottom to come out. Technically the term stance itself could refer to how it sits in any form, be it stock or modded but in all the days ive seen shit evolve in the car communities, it was mostly referred to how a car that usually sat with low offset/wide wheels. Feel free to inject opinions here but this is how ive seen things evolve and when you use the term it confuses me a little in your sentences. I just want to get on the same page.
Whats the spec on those 15's?
Whats the spec on those 15's?
NemesisCBR
Boredest Member
The offset for the wheel will affect the aggressiveness of the stance first. Rim width affects your inner and outer edge clearances more. 16x8 normal offset (40ish, stock is 45) is morelike to rub inside wheel well with steering wheel fully clocked. The lower offset you go shifts the whole wheel outwards on the vehicle so picture that in your head. Im running 16x8 +25et. If i were not lowered they would be straight vertically but basically poke out from the wheel wells. The negative camber from lowering brings the top of the wheel back in. People who run more aggressive offsets or slam their cars even more bring the camber in farther for clearance and flush appearance. Also 8" wide wheel you will be running a stretched tire to fit. You could just run a 16x7 with a small wheel spacer if you just want to widen the wheel stance a bit.
If you want an appearance like that accord or any car that appears like that, you need low offset wheels, zero offset. This is appearances only and doesnt really offer any driving benefits. +25 or higher if you want less aggressive. Do some looking around before you go through with anything.
If you want an appearance like that accord or any car that appears like that, you need low offset wheels, zero offset. This is appearances only and doesnt really offer any driving benefits. +25 or higher if you want less aggressive. Do some looking around before you go through with anything.
OneFastGSR
Member
Nemesis or R13 forgot who I was talking to about pc stuff awhile ago. Seem to be in a conversation with both of you at same time pretty often lol. I ordered same cpu I had (Phenom II X4 965 3.4Ghz. and some G skill 16GB DDR3 2x8GB 1600 ram. Didn't want to cut into my car saving funds to upgrade. Lol 
NemesisCBR
Boredest Member
It was him and someone else. I think Goofy.
R13
The other asshole
Can't say I blame you, I stopped my build once I hit the $900 mark because I realized there weren't any games I wanted to play.Nemesis or R13 forgot who I was talking to about pc stuff awhile ago. Seem to be in a conversation with both of you at same time pretty often lol. I ordered same cpu I had (Phenom II X4 965 3.4Ghz. and some G skill 16GB DDR3 2x8GB 1600 ram. Didn't want to cut into my car saving funds to upgrade. Lol
If I were to order a GTX670 ftw though I would have setup capable of running skyrim on ultra with dual monitors while maintaining 60-80+ fps.
OneFastGSR
Member
I still havn't figured out how people can say you can build a pc cheaper than buying one. Cyberpower you can get i7 3770k amd radeon 7970 etc for $800-900 and just the i7 with good motherboard and good full size case is freaking $800.
superhypered
(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
R13 & NemesisCBR
I got my Pulser Coil for my broken bike yesterday. Haven't ran this bike since October. Installed a new C.D.I. Unit also, thinking it'd fix my issue. Nope. New ignition coil? Nope. Pulled the case off to install the Pulser Coil, discovered that installing my new part will also probably not work, considering the discovery I made.
So, how bad is this in your experience with bikes and magnets?
I got my Pulser Coil for my broken bike yesterday. Haven't ran this bike since October. Installed a new C.D.I. Unit also, thinking it'd fix my issue. Nope. New ignition coil? Nope. Pulled the case off to install the Pulser Coil, discovered that installing my new part will also probably not work, considering the discovery I made.
So, how bad is this in your experience with bikes and magnets?
NemesisCBR
Boredest Member
lol dammmn.. never worked on bikes mechanically but thats not goona be good in any form
superhypered
(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
It's not ran in the oil or anything... But I don't want any fragments in my oil :/
It seems like the OEM replacement part for the generator is a sealed part, not open like these magnets were. The site I'm going to order it from shows the picture being a sealed ring, so we'll see.
It seems like the OEM replacement part for the generator is a sealed part, not open like these magnets were. The site I'm going to order it from shows the picture being a sealed ring, so we'll see.