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HMMMMMMMMMMM I will keep this in mind.

That ITR is just super clean...I really want to molest it and turn her into a dirty track whore.

I finally got around to swapping an RS roof skin on to the DC2. Finally no more Home Depot sunroof cap and 53 rivets. The RS skin is actually substantially lighter than the GSR roof and cap. Removing a windshield is sort of a pain in the ass. Stripping the donor skin. New OEM trim...

Far from broke. If I wanted it to have 600 hp.. It would. Hell it has sleeves, H-beam rods, forged pistons, oversized valves, ported head and a custom beehive valve train. I didn't exactly skimp. I built it to run at 10k rpm all day long. Not 10 seconds.

I mean I could turbo it anytime. It's built for boost. I just happen to prefer NA. Lol

I am still confused why he posted in this thread instead of my build thread. All his questions would have been answered out the gate, but then again he did miss the dyno graph posted in the very first post and then says I need leather interior, a radio and hopes I dyno tuned it... This car...

What the hell is going on in here? Why is the dude saying he hopes I dyno tuned it when the dyno graph is posted in the very first post? Also mentions race seats and roll cage...I have race seats, harnesses and a roll bar. I also use a a head an neck restrain system for added safety. Oh and I...

Went out to chuckwalla this past weekend for HFF Challenge round 1. The car is a lot better after the fixes. I am still doing the same mistakes of downshifting early and coasting up to braking zones, but getting better each time. The car still has mid corner understeer that I am going to resolve...

Man that subframe was fucked. Lol

Working on it. The understeer that as been plaguing me appears to have been the broken subframe. We shall see if grip improves.

Well, It has been a while since I updated this. I contemplated just letting it die off, but decided to give a quick update. Got new fenders: Raised front spring rates: New Front UCA: Bent a 949 so picked up some FFD: Got some Kingpin Compliance Bearings: Got rid of FFD and got...

I guess I can update this... 2:01.636 (Nick_C78; '95 DC2; Hankook R-S3; B18C1; 233chp, 2275lbs w/o Driver; 1/30/16) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMUt61NKxdQ

You will need to upgrade your valve springs. You will absolutely need a tune. Hondata or chrome will work. Youll need to go to an actual dyno tuner. Don't be cheap. I never understand why people will spend thousands on a build and then street tune it....I mean come on man whats another 350-500...

A lot. Too much to update right now. Ill get around to it. Maybe Sunday

Lol even my app is out dated now.

Never underestimate idiots

Its possible if the rears have 7in and front have 8in. Lol

I work in costa mesa. Ill keep an eye out

Gotta pay to play.

Remove the entire upper control arm and anchors. Anchors are just held on by the 2 nuts at the top of shock tower. Tighten the bolt that goes to the bushings while its outside...then reinstall.