Mirrorimg's build thread

[Jabes]

Numbers look decent, would've expected more tho since its got cams and pistons and all that but still pulls pretty good I bet.

 

[Kyle]

Numbers look decent, would've expected more tho since its got cams and pistons and all that but still pulls pretty good I bet.

If he had the head professionally ported, he would have probably made more cause non-VTEC heads flow like crap. No TB? I looked through your build, didn't see any mentioned. I would have expected a little more power than 155whp but it's still an improvement over stock. How does it drive? Feel good throughout the powerband? Guess I got some deciding to do on my build, VTEC or non-VTEC build.

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

What compression are the pistons? Chances are the p8r head is holding you back with an all motor setup. Most people do not realize that they have 84mm combustion chambers and are the reason that every B20 equipped with one has 8.8:1 compression vs the regular 9.x:1. Nubers on a dyno don't really matter either, track numbers will tell you how fast the car really is

Congrats on having it tuned!! What are the next plans for it if any? Also how aggressive was the tune? That too will play a role in how much power the car makes.

 

[Samurai_Blue]

Jason try a 68mm tb and did you degree the cams and crank with a degree wheel? you may be missing power from that

 

[mirrorimg]

Numbers look decent, would've expected more tho since its got cams and pistons and all that but still pulls pretty good I bet.

Compression ratio is not very high, so that limited some of my power. I had just enough taken off the head and block to get it straight.

If he had the head professionally ported, he would have probably made more cause non-VTEC heads flow like crap. No TB? I looked through your build, didn't see any mentioned. I would have expected a little more power than 155whp but it's still an improvement over stock. How does it drive? Feel good throughout the powerband? Guess I got some deciding to do on my build, VTEC or non-VTEC build.

Keep in mind I have a cylinder head with 33mm intake valves. This isnt the normal P75 or PR4 head. No throttle body. If I was going to upgrade, I would have gone with the ITR TB, but it most likely wouldnt have helped much. CR is the big thing holding me back. It feels pretty good and Im happy with it. Just have to put some more miles in to seat the rings.

What compression are the pistons? Chances are the p8r head is holding you back with an all motor setup. Most people do not realize that they have 84mm combustion chambers and are the reason that every B20 equipped with one has 8.8:1 compression vs the regular 9.x:1. Nubers on a dyno don't really matter either, track numbers will tell you how fast the car really is

Congrats on having it tuned!! What are the next plans for it if any? Also how aggressive was the tune? That too will play a role in how much power the car makes.

Thanks!
The pistons are OEM ITR style pistons from RS Machine, so whatever CR they have. Im certainly higher than 9.0:1, but probably not exceeding 10.2:1. I know the #'s of a dyno should be taken with a grain of salt, as some read higher/lower than others. The numbers on the sheet are from the same dyno, on 2 different tunes so I know for sure I picked up power over last time. Also, I am well aware that my compression ratio is limiting my power output, but Im not planning on shelling out $600 for some forged pistons or redoing the block to get some P30's which were only oversized to 81.5mm.

I wanted it reliable since its my daily, so its not leaned out for more power. It maintains a good enough AF ratio at cruising. He leaned it out a little at the top of the powerband, but thats all.

Jason try a 68mm tb and did you degree the cams and crank with a degree wheel? you may be missing power from that

My tuner told me that on a stock motor (i.e. no excessive milling or decking) the cams performed best when pointed straight up. We adjusted them by retarding and advancing each one 2* and at one point I picked up peak power, but lost midrange. The best over all was with them straight up.

Thanks every one for the comments.

 

[Samurai_Blue]

My tuner told me that on a stock motor (i.e. no excessive milling or decking) the cams performed best when pointed straight up. We adjusted them by retarding and advancing each one 2* and at one point I picked up peak power, but lost midrange. The best over all was with them straight up.

Thanks every one for the comments.

compression as well as other factors may be holding you back. I am suprised they dont need to be degreed in usually a stage 2/3 cam needs to be

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

Hell Pro1's have to be degreed, interesteting none the less. I'm not knocking your tuner or your power so hopefully I don't come off that way. As I said earlier congrats!!

 

[endo617]

I looked through your build, didn't see any mentioned. I would have expected a little more power than 155whp but it's still an improvement over stock.

155whp is really good on the setup his running, IMO. You have to consider the fact that if you go and throw a stock LS on the dyno its not really going to pull out the 140 whp that the factory says on the books

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

Hell my stock B20 (in my old crx) made 114whp (did a 0psi pull for s***s and giggles), so yeah gaining 40+hp is pretty good

 

[Kyle]

155whp is really good on the setup his running, IMO. You have to consider the fact that if you go and throw a stock LS on the dyno its not really going to pull out the 140 whp that the factory says on the books

I'm pretty sure that 140hp is crank, not wheel. If remember correctly, stock B18Bs make about 110-115ish whp depending on condidtion and mileage. 40whp is def an upgrade but I was just expecting more. I've seen untuned B18Bs make 150whp but thats with a good port job. Tuning does matter though.

 

[mirrorimg]

So I have had some bugs lately that have needed attention. The car is down once again for repairs in the garage. On a positive note, I went to the junkyard and picked up a pretty good condition black steering wheel. My tan one was losing a lot of the vinyl on the top. The car was a hatch, so I could have taken the dash and CC, but the door panels would have still needed to be sourced for my interior conversion. I will have to keep on the lookout.

My driver side motor mount started leaking so I had to replace it. The replacement mount I ordered off of RockAuto.com was not identical and the bolt hole in the center of the rubber was 3mm lower than stock. I made a spacer to raise it and installed it.

The leak I got from my condenser rubbing on my radiator never stopped despite my repair. I also gave my radiator another small leak when I reinstalled me engine after the rebuild. I will have to replace it and the koyo will get cleaned up and mounted on my wall in my house as "artwork." I dont know if I want to spend $250 on another full aluminum or just go with an OEM/replacement unit...

Lastly, my heater core is acting up again. I can really smell coolant when I turn the heat on, but it stops when I set the climate control to cool. This points me to the fact that the airbox doors are shutting to the heater core and the air is coming directly from the cowl, so the issue is not burning cooling on my header and pulling in the gas that way. It cant be anything other than the core. I plan on locating the leak by pressurizing the heater core when its out, and trying to resolder the joints that are leaking to try to fix the problem.

 

[mirrorimg]

So fixing the heater core was a bust. The solder joints are so delicate that I created new ones when trying to correct the pinhole. My roommate is pulling his dash and will no longer need his core, but he wont get to that until next week... and I have been patient up until now waiting for him to get on it. Autozone stocks the part for $70, and its available online for $35. I decided to order it online, and overnight it so the total comes to $55.Still saving me 15+tax Install will commence tomorrow.

The radiator is also being salvaged despite my last post. My office mate happened to mention jbweld, which hadn't even crossed my mind. I decided to give it a shot and mixed up a batch. I poured it into the holes and let it settle. It looks like it has filled in the holes entirely, so I will have to wait to see if it holds up. What I'm hoping does not happen is that after the system heats up and the metal expands, the aluminum will separate from the jbweld and a new leak will ensue.

This is the engine side of the radiator, the hole on this side is on the lower right.

And as she sits...

 

[Samurai_Blue]

jason look into Prothane inserts for the mounts. they are like the energy ones but for the driver and tranny mounts. i believe you need to cut out the driver side one for it to work as well

 

[nathan_carmona]

you overlooked JB weld?? thats like option number three for me if duck tape and rtv fail lol

edit: make that option number 4, zip ties are cheaper and thus come before trying JB weld

 

[mirrorimg]

jason look into Prothane inserts for the mounts. they are like the energy ones but for the driver and tranny mounts. i believe you need to cut out the driver side one for it to work as well

Ive already purchased the replacement mount, but I will save my old one in case I do that down the road. I didnt know that there were other bushings that werent designed the same as the torque mounts (fill in the voids rather than replacing the mount entirely.)

you overlooked JB weld?? thats like option number three for me if duck tape and rtv fail lol

edit: make that option number 4, zip ties are cheaper and thus come before trying JB weld

Its funny because I had just used it a couple weeks ago on something else!