Ways to stop Oil Burning

[Cman46290]

There will always be debate on what is better for the break in period but here is some more details as to why I believe you should run your car hard and not take it easy...

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

^great explanation... rep+

I honestly didnt feel like writing a book for these guys to argue with me though lol...

 

[Samurai_Blue]

There will always be debate on what is better for the break in period but here is some more details as to why I believe you should run your car hard and not take it easy...

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

FAIL

site your source.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[Samurai_Blue]

^great explanation... rep+

I honestly didnt feel like writing a book for these guys to argue with me though lol...

good cause it was copied and pasted.

 

[Cman46290]

Ive read the same article before as well...

Its a great and proven method for engine break ins

 

[Samurai_Blue]

Ive read the same article before as well...

Its a great and proven method for engine break ins

your comment lead me to belive you have not read that article as his "explanation" was taken word for word from the article. plagiarism isnt something we should condone here, we should site sources if we find information, as that article has alot more information to give besides just "run the car hard"

 

[OGstackadoIIa]

Someone literally posted that article on here a few months ago. Even I recognized parts of it. I think it was Paden who posted it

 

[fernando_dc2]

fail

site your source.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

lmao +1

 

[hgocasca]

I read it three months ago when I was breaking in my engine, didn't like it, didn't do it

 

[Samurai_Blue]

I read it three months ago when I was breaking in my engine, didn't like it, didn't do it

its a controversial topic what meathod did you use? the keep it under x rpm for x miles?

 

[hgocasca]

its a controversial topic what meathod did you use? the keep it under x rpm for x miles?

Yup, under 3k for the first thousand miles, and up 1k rpms per 1k miles, but said fuck it after 1500 miles and got it tuned, I now rip on it constantly, I'm a vtec junkie

 

[Cman46290]

Yup, under 3k for the first thousand miles, and up 1k rpms per 1k miles, but said f*** it after 1500 miles and got it tuned, I now rip on it constantly, I'm a vtec junkie

^^ haha.. that will happen after the first "WAHHHHHHHH" VTAK!!!



And i wasnt implying that you had not seated your rings properly... just trying to give a decent explanation as to why you may be burning oil... its obviously possible that the rings still havent seated all the way? not sure....

Cuz ive also heard that if the cylinder walls glaze over before you seat the rings all the way... there will be blow by as well...(but maybe not until high RPMS.... like VTAKK )

 

[hgocasca]

All good.......buuuaaaahhhhhh

 

[fernando_dc2]

im surprised nobody mentioned this as a way to stop burning oil....THICKER OIL...if 10-30 burns go 10-40..if it still burns go 20w-50.... i run 20w-50 vr1 for 8000miles no issues

 

[Prozon]

It has under 8k miles on the rebuild, I literally changed out almost everything, click on my build thread in my sig. The rings take up to 10k to seal all the way, that's why I'm losing so much. Rock rings suck for that reason, but they last forever after they seal. Chrome top rings are a b****.

That seems like a bit much. I heard up to 5k on rings, I stopped burning oil at 4k.

 

[Prozon]

I don't know where you get your info . but all cars burn oil . new or old ...

They aren't supposed to burn a quart or more between oil changes, lol.

So my fully rebuilt motor was rebuilt with bad parts fresh from the package?!

Could have been improperly machined or rebuilt.

I heated up the engine to operating temp, went to a back straight away, and went from 30-50 in third gear and let the engine slow itself back down to 30mph, I repeated this ten times back to back, brought it straight back, and turned it off, and let it cool down and checked for leaks when it was cooling off, then I broke it in slowly for 1500 miles

Good ol' Haynes manual rebuild procedure. Same as what I did for my rebuild.

There will always be debate on what is better for the break in period but here is some more details as to why I believe you should run your car hard and not take it easy...

Next time you copy and paste something you should probably mention you're copy and pasting. I don't agree with the mottoman method- and that's for a motorcycle motor. I'm perfectly happy with the method I used.

I read it three months ago when I was breaking in my engine, didn't like it, didn't do it

I read it after my rebuild, but I still feel that I don't like that method lol.

^great explanation... rep+

I honestly didnt feel like writing a book for these guys to argue with me though lol...

Dylan caught that, PLAGIARIZED! :???:

im surprised nobody mentioned this as a way to stop burning oil....THICKER OIL...if 10-30 burns go 10-40..if it still burns go 20w-50.... i run 20w-50 vr1 for 8000miles no issues

Somebody mentioned it on the second page. But this would be the good method to slow oil consumption. I run 10w-15 in my cars. (Any car, I don't give a damn what it is, lol.)