Ways to stop Oil Burning

04caliwrx

New Member
use a thicker oil like 10/30, and if you drive any car hard it will burn a small amount of oil. I use about 1/4 every 3500 miles. Also if you are low on oil the oil light comes on and not the check engine light. you might have a big problem
 

SOMD_GSR_STi

Flatout Performance
Well the check engine code is Vtec malfunction (which in turn can be anything from solenoid all the way to oil pressure) where as low oil pressure = low/no oil and thats what VTEC runs off of, is oil pressure.
 

OGstackadoIIa

TEAM LlGHTSPEED RACING
Our cars burn oil in VTEC due to age and deterioration of the rings...and other engine components.. A PERFECTLY healthy motor with perfectly sealing rings wont burn oil...

But in almost ALL cases in any older honda these days.. they dont have brand new rings....and have been driven for 150k-200k miles.. with 17 different owners... and punk kids driving the piss out of them...

therefore if he is worried about oil consumption... stop hitting vtec so much... and this may help from burning so much.... especially if he doesnt have the money to do a rebuild.

-Corey
You're not doing it right, lol. I get what you're saying but I don't have the urge to explain it
 

gugiey

New Member
Our cars burn oil in VTEC due to age and deterioration of the rings...and other engine components.. A PERFECTLY healthy motor with perfectly sealing rings wont burn oil...

But in almost ALL cases in any older honda these days.. they dont have brand new rings....and have been driven for 150k-200k miles.. with 17 different owners... and punk kids driving the piss out of them...

therefore if he is worried about oil consumption... stop hitting vtec so much... and this may help from burning so much.... especially if he doesnt have the money to do a rebuild.

-Corey
I don't know where you get your info . but all cars burn oil . new or old ...
 


Cman46290

New Member
I don't know where you get your info . but all cars burn oil . new or old ...
^^ where did this tool come from? apparently we got BILL NYE THE CAR GUY HERE!

get yourfacts straight my friend. A healthy engine doesnt burn oil... My Accord V6 doesnt burn up a drop between LOF's.... please explain your theory.

likely reasons you could be "burning oil"....

1) Bad valve seals

2) Worn valve guides

3) Pressurized crankcase (oil pan) due to a clogged PCV valve or breather system

4) Blow-by from worn piston rings
 
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hgocasca

level 77 troll
^^ where did this tool come from? apparently we got BILL NYE THE CAR GUY HERE!

get yourfacts straight my friend. A healthy engine doesnt burn oil... My Accord V6 doesnt burn up a drop between LOF's.... please explain your theory.

likely reasons you could be "burning oil"....

1) Bad valve seals

2) Worn valve guides

3) Pressurized crankcase (oil pan) due to a clogged PCV valve or breather system

4) Blow-by from worn piston rings
So my fully rebuilt motor was rebuilt with bad parts fresh from the package?!
 

Cman46290

New Member
So my fully rebuilt motor was rebuilt with bad parts fresh from the package?!
Not necessarily... but you did say that you did the "light brake in procedure"... when you broke in and seated the rings after your rebuild correct??

Ive heard that if the rings arent seated properly after break in (not heated up enough during break in).... then the rings can cause blow-by from day one.

Ive heard the best way to break an engine in... is by multiole high revving runs after the engine is completely warmed up... allowing the car to decelerate in gear.... through gears 2,3,4.... then after a while of heating up the motor and seating the rings.... let the car cool down... and sit for a bit... and re-do this a few times to properly seat the rings.... they need to be heated up a fair amount to expand properly and seal properly.
 

hgocasca

level 77 troll
I heated up the engine to operating temp, went to a back straight away, and went from 30-50 in third gear and let the engine slow itself back down to 30mph, I repeated this ten times back to back, brought it straight back, and turned it off, and let it cool down and checked for leaks when it was cooling off, then I broke it in slowly for 1500 miles
 

klutchDb7

ლ(ಠ益ಠლ)
I heated up the engine to operating temp, went to a back straight away, and went from 30-50 in third gear and let the engine slow itself back down to 30mph, I repeated this ten times back to back, brought it straight back, and turned it off, and let it cool down and checked for leaks when it was cooling off, then I broke it in slowly for 1500 miles
I can vouch, he drove slow as hell :p
 

Alvi84

New Member
There will always be debate on what is better for the break in period but here is some more details as to why I believe you should run your car hard and not take it easy...

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
 

gugiey

New Member
^^ where did this tool come from? apparently we got BILL NYE THE CAR GUY HERE!

get yourfacts straight my friend. A healthy engine doesnt burn oil... My Accord V6 doesnt burn up a drop between LOF's.... please explain your theory.

likely reasons you could be "burning oil"....

1) Bad valve seals

2) Worn valve guides

3) Pressurized crankcase (oil pan) due to a clogged PCV valve or breather system

4) Blow-by from worn piston rings
buddy you may not notice any oil burning . because its very little to o most nothing but under high heat and high load your gonna burn a bit of oil .
 
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