Noob here with a few audio questions

[5150KDC2]

It's better to have an amp that can put out more power than the speakers can handle, it's gives the speakers headroom and redeces the chances of clipping the speakers. If you setup an amp correctly you'll get maximum power out of the amp, and maximum volume from the speakers, and no distortion, no matter how far apart the RMS ratings of the amp and speakers are. Sound quality will depend on the quality of the speaker, of the amp, the stregnth/quality of the signal from the source unit, and a good install.

Not to be a dick or anything man, but how many installs have you done? I really am curiouse, just cause I would like to know how you figured this out.. Every stereo person I have talk with, and from personal experience, its better to go with the RMS rating. the amp will still put out more power than the RMS rating, but not enough to blow the speakers. If you push more RMS than that speaker can handle, it will blow if pushed to hard.,

 

[hgocasca]

Not to be a dick or anything man, but how many installs have you done? I really am curiouse, just cause I would like to know how you figured this out.. Every stereo person I have talk with, and from personal experience, its better to go with the RMS rating. the amp will still put out more power than the RMS rating, but not enough to blow the speakers. If you push more RMS than that speaker can handle, it will blow if pushed to hard.,

This is what I've gathered too. Mainly sourced from my neighbor, who is a master installer for car toys and has been for 5+ years, and does the sound systems personally for quite a few of the pro athletes here in Colorado. Carmello, tebow, Rockies players, etc.

 

[TegSox]

If it's a quality brand true, the amp will probably put out more power than it's rated at (but we shouldn't expect that from a "Walmart" amp). That's why I say if the amp puts out more power (rated power or otherwise) then the speakers can handle, if the amp is set correctly, you won't be pushing the speakers too hard, you won't have to worry about the amp putting too much power to the speakers. You know, pick a max volume spot on the deck (mine's 30 on my Alpine in my Civic, 25 in the Teg, though they go to 35), turn up the gains on the amp until you hear distortion then dial back the gain a touch, that's it.
I'm not saying give a speaker more power than it can handle, I'm just saying that its better for the amp to not be pushed to it's max limits of power production, and headroom is also good to have because not all musical recordings output at the same volume. Some play louder than others, I'm sure you guys have noticed that, why can't that industry fix that? lol

My Civic system, and some Integra system pics too.
I installed for a living for 3 years, and I've had big systems in every car I've owned since I was 18, and that was 18 years ago, lol.

Sorry, I've just never heard in all my years about matching RMS ratings of the amp and speakers as closly as possible or SQ suffers. Many things can effect SQ, but I've never heard of that one.

 

[hgocasca]

My sub is rated at 275,peak is 1100, my amp is rated at 250, peak is 1000. Perfect setup for me

 

[5150KDC2]

If it's a quality brand true, the amp will probably put out more power than it's rated at (but we shouldn't expect that from a "Walmart" amp). That's why I say if the amp puts out more power (rated power or otherwise) then the speakers can handle, if the amp is set correctly, you won't be pushing the speakers too hard, you won't have to worry about the amp putting too much power to the speakers. You know, pick a max volume spot on the deck (mine's 30 on my Alpine in my Civic, 25 in the Teg, though they go to 35), turn up the gains on the amp until you hear distortion then dial back the gain a touch, that's it.
I'm not saying give a speaker more power than it can handle, I'm just saying that its better for the amp to not be pushed to it's max limits of power production, and headroom is also good to have because not all musical recordings output at the same volume. Some play louder than others, I'm sure you guys have noticed that, why can't that industry fix that? lol

My Civic system, and some Integra system pics too.
I installed for a living for 3 years, and I've had big systems in every car I've owned since I was 18, and that was 18 years ago, lol.

Sorry, I've just never heard in all my years about matching RMS ratings of the amp and speakers as closly as possible or SQ suffers. Many things can effect SQ, but I've never heard of that one.

I kinda figured we werent talkin walmart here lol, anyone can put something on box and say its something its not. Gotta love the sales market these days. Quality of the product has everything to do with it.
As far as the RMS matching, you make sence on that part (i prolly read your last post wrong if thats what you were meaning to say). On the other hand, I can see that for subs and amp matching (dealing with that issue currently lol). I dont think its as important with door speakers.

Like you I have done installs for many years (not pro), and all my advice was from pros that went to school for it and this is the first I have heard of going over the RMS. And since you have the experience, I will belive it lol.. Nice to learn new things.

 

[facechubb]

Wounded up getting a cheap sub (Type-E Alpine 10"...I know its not too great, but I'm just going for better than my blown factory speakers from 93 haha). I'm attempting to get a hold of one of my friend's other amps as well as the one he already gave me, as they weren't working with his system. Looks like I may be powering my speakers and my sub with 2 different amps. If I can't make a deal with my buddy for two amps, I'll just power the speakers through my head unit and power the sub through one of his mono amps.
I know I'm going pretty low end here with my equipment compared to alot of the stuff I've seen, but I gotta say I'm looking forward to pumping some gnarly death metal in a town that listens to only country and pop...

On the topic of subs if I may bring it up, how easy is it to build your own box? I got a buddy who works at a home improvement store who can pretty much hook me up with materials, but I've read a few things about soundproofing the inside, etc. etc. Anything I should know before attempting to build a box for a sub?

Thanks guys for all the help and for all of the insight. Its making this project alot simpler.

 

[5150KDC2]

My sub is rated at 275,peak is 1100, my amp is rated at 250, peak is 1000. Perfect setup for me

If your sub's RMS (rated) is 275 watts, there is no way that the peak is 1100. Either your peak or RMS is wrong. Its a selling point. Most companies will round up, but not that much. The most your peak will be for your sub (assuming the RMS is correct), and I mean absolute most is 777.93 watts. Also this is going off of it being a 4Ohm sub. Majority of them are. As for the amp, I dont have enough info to tell you if thats correct or not. To many variables there.

Wounded up getting a cheap sub (Type-E Alpine 10"...I know its not too great, but I'm just going for better than my blown factory speakers from 93 haha). I'm attempting to get a hold of one of my friend's other amps as well as the one he already gave me, as they weren't working with his system. Looks like I may be powering my speakers and my sub with 2 different amps. If I can't make a deal with my buddy for two amps, I'll just power the speakers through my head unit and power the sub through one of his mono amps.
I know I'm going pretty low end here with my equipment compared to alot of the stuff I've seen, but I gotta say I'm looking forward to pumping some gnarly death metal in a town that listens to only country and pop...

On the topic of subs if I may bring it up, how easy is it to build your own box? I got a buddy who works at a home improvement store who can pretty much hook me up with materials, but I've read a few things about soundproofing the inside, etc. etc. Anything I should know before attempting to build a box for a sub?

Thanks guys for all the help and for all of the insight. Its making this project alot simpler.

The Type E is a good one still, its a good brand name and they dont B.S. like a lot of the others do. Running Two amps is the way to go, Its better to run a 4 channel for the speakers, and a mono for a single sub. You lose a lot of power if you run it all off of one amp. Unless its built for it, and those amps get pricey and huge in size lol.
As for your box, try and get as close to the air volume numbers as you can, and from experience, a sealed box sounds best with Alpine. Insulating the box isnt neccesary, just use a good wood. No plywood or pressboard. There is better stuff out there, I just cant remember what its called off the top of my head. You can ask a stereo store and they should tell you. It looks like pressboard, but it isnt and its way heavier. Building it isnt hard though, Good wood glue and finishing nails to hold it togeather. Length x width x hight should get you your air volume if I remember correctly. Good luck

 

[hgocasca]

I'll bring the box on Sunday, you can see for yourself

 

[facechubb]

In your guys experience, where is a good place to put the sub in the hatchback? I've heard of guys putting where the spare tire is, but I would rather not...
also, is there any pre-existing templates for a 10" enclosure that could work for my car? At this point I'm waiting for all of my wiring to come in the mail so I've got a week or so to build a box.

 

[5150KDC2]

I dont think there are any templates out there. Unless you talking about a template to cut the circle out of the box, then most of the subs come with them in the box when you buy them. If your talking about the whole box, the closest thing ive seen is the glue your own stuff. Its already built, and carpeted, just have to glue it togeather.

As far as positioning, up against the back seat facing backward is good, or anywhere along one side of the car would be good also.

 

[facechubb]

When you say facing backward, do you mean having the sub facing toward the inside of the car, or facing toward the hatch opening?
Also, does it matter if the box isn't flush against the back of the seats? The seats are slanted and it will be much more difficult to build a box that would work that way wouldn't it?

Sorry this thread has kind of turned into a "car audio 101 for Integra's thread," but I seriously wouldn't be able to do any of this stuff if it wasn't for other people who are willing to help.

So, I actually had another few questions aside from the above haha

1) What is normal procedure in a 2nd generation Integra for running speaker wire, power wire, grounding etc.? I mostly need some info on running speaker wire from the 4 channel to the doors and back speakers. Sub wiring is easy in that respect.
Is it very difficult?

2) Where is an ideal spot to put the two amps I plan on running? Back of the back seats in the hatch? Under seats?

3) Wiring placement in general for this car is basically my question haha. I know how to wire the amps together, etc., but its the placement and the little tricks that you guys probably know that will help me the most in getting this thing set up nice and clean!

Thanks so much again for any help!

 

[Jackmldog]

There are two people on eBay who offer prebuilt boxes specifically for integras and they look really good.. Though it's not about looks for me. It's about maximum output and smallest size. The box I built is a simple 1.34 cf ported box tuned to 34hz. It's louder than my buddies 2 12s and I only have a single ten. Plus it's really controlled bass. Mounting amps is best done IMO on the back of the seats because of moisture and cool air can get to them. For the 3rd gen you have to can run the wires to the doors by either through the molex or drilling a whole new hole. I went through the molex. As far as which way the box is turned, towards the hatch is the way most people do it. But if you want it to be as loud and crisp as possible lay down the seats and face it towards the front. But I wouldn't do that because it's easy for people to see it

 

[facechubb]

You wouldn't happen to have the eBay names for those guys would you?

I think I'll go ahead and mount the amps on the seats like you're saying Jackmldog.

I actually have a 2nd generation (93...not sure if you meant to write 3rd generation), is the speaker wiring any different with a 93?

Would you mind me asking the rest of your dimensions for your box? From what you're saying it sounds like a really great enclosure.

Thanks again!

 

[5150KDC2]

When you say facing backward, do you mean having the sub facing toward the inside of the car, or facing toward the hatch opening?
Also, does it matter if the box isn't flush against the back of the seats? The seats are slanted and it will be much more difficult to build a box that would work that way wouldn't it?

Sorry this thread has kind of turned into a "car audio 101 for Integra's thread," but I seriously wouldn't be able to do any of this stuff if it wasn't for other people who are willing to help.

So, I actually had another few questions aside from the above haha

1) What is normal procedure in a 2nd generation Integra for running speaker wire, power wire, grounding etc.? I mostly need some info on running speaker wire from the 4 channel to the doors and back speakers. Sub wiring is easy in that respect.
Is it very difficult?

2) Where is an ideal spot to put the two amps I plan on running? Back of the back seats in the hatch? Under seats?

3) Wiring placement in general for this car is basically my question haha. I know how to wire the amps together, etc., but its the placement and the little tricks that you guys probably know that will help me the most in getting this thing set up nice and clean!

Thanks so much again for any help!

Point the sub face toword the back of the car. That way the sound will hit the back of the car and reflect back to you. The box can be flush with the back seat, but doesnt have to. If you put your amps on the back of the seat than you want a gap so they dont over heat. As for running the wires, I would just run all new wire (14 guage) from the amp to the speakers. This way you will get a crisp sound, most wires are marked with either a positive side or a negative, either way just make sure they match when hooked up to the amp and speaker. Most amps when multi-channeled will say + and -, also should say front and rear on the output leads. I have all my wires ran under either trim or carpet. Run the door speaker wire through the factory hole, this way you wont have to drill anything. Also use as few connectors as possible, you should have a maximum of 4 per speaker (try and only use two,( the speaker side)).

And dont worry bout this turning into Car audio 101. lol.. Im happy to help, and I am sure every one else is too. I just want to see how it turns out.

 

[5150KDC2]

if anything else comes up, feel free to ask.