na gsr? boosted gsr or kswap??

jdmda2388

New Member
Wanna know should I build my gsr a nasty all motor or should I boost my gsr?? My buddies are sayin do a k swap idk what do ya guys think??
 

KiNGKAOS

New Member
What are your power goals? Whats your budget? Is the build for the strip, autoX, street, or just for "braggin' rights?" With your questions, your gonna get "mixed" answers... You really should ask "yourself" those questions in my opinon... What DO YOU want to do with your GSR?
 

jdmda2388

New Member
Id like to have a fast reliable daily though it won't be drivin in the winter so id like to just build a nasty all motor gsr.. was thinkin supertech valvtrain b16 pistons would bump up compresion to 11 or use ctr pistons and some nice cams
 


Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
what are your power goals
what do you want to build the car for
whats your budget

any "fully built" car will have problems as a reliable dd
 

Alvi84

New Member
Boost. Its expensive to get good whp out of a n/a b series. You would need to invest in some really good cams to get over 225 whp on n/a from my research. You can build your bottom end for boost with forged internals and a block guard and then boost and go with a "safe tune" for daily driving. It's what i've been leaning towards doing more. Initially had thoughts of putting together a n/a build.
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
Boost. Its expensive to get good whp out of a n/a b series. You would need to invest in some really good cams to get over 225 whp on n/a from my research. You can build your bottom end for boost with forged internals and a block guard and then boost and go with a "safe tune" for daily driving. It's what i've been leaning towards doing more. Initially had thoughts of putting together a n/a build.
Not Necisarily its just a skunk2 stage 2 or a Blox B cam will get you around 220 with a good tune and a decently built bottom end like errr....11.5 CR and thats JDM ITR pistons or PR3 pistons NA becomes un drivable for daily duties after a certain point and to get hella HP you need to bore the block and do a lot of head work, but boost as you said is easier however, you dont need forged stuff etc thats if you go big big big. 300whp is acheivable on a stock ls on 7psi
 


Prozon

Kris
I wish I had the thousands upon thousands upon thousands of dollars to put into a K swap or fully built GSR motor.

300whp is acheivable on a stock ls on 7psi
It really depends on your setup. I'm running 10psi on a T3/T4 57 trim and I really doubt I will be making anything over 250hp. Not to mention it won't be all that reliable at 300hp, the stock rods don't like to hang on at that much power. I think that if you're aiming for 300hp+ you should build the bottom.
 
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Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
I wish I had the thousands upon thousands upon thousands of dollars to put into a K swap or fully built GSR motor.


It really depends on your setup. I'm running 10psi on a T3/T4 57 trim and I really doubt I will be making anything over 250hp. Not to mention it won't be all that reliable at 300hp, the stock rods don't like to hang on at that much power. I think that if you're aiming for 300hp+ you should build the bottom.
depends i would expect over 250 minimum if i was to do a T3/T4 like i was going to do for shits and giggles. I rather supercharge :]
 

jdmda2388

New Member
I'd like to keep my gsr motor and just making it a nice all motor in the HP range of 225 to 240 and I heard with nice cams, CTR Pistons. And nice valve train and tune the shit outa it will make nice numbers
 

Alvi84

New Member
I'd like to keep my gsr motor and just making it a nice all motor in the HP range of 225 to 240 and I heard with nice cams, CTR Pistons. And nice valve train and tune the s*** outa it will make nice numbers
Be careful with your oil clearances when using the CTR Pistons... their dome shape helps boost compression but I've heard of clearance issues.
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
I heard thethey are better for all motor but then ppl tell me to use itr pistons
The P72 head is good for boost, the PR3 head is good for NA. Use ITR pistons as they will give you enough compression. To acheive those numbers i suggest boring to 84mm as bigger cams like displacement. Ive done research on the Pro2+ cam etc and have concluded that with the P72 head its easier to bore out the motor rather than gambling on the CTR piston as you can not adjust your dizzy much
 

AlexD

J13 sooo mad
The P72 head is good for boost, the PR3 head is good for NA. Use ITR pistons as they will give you enough compression. To acheive those numbers i suggest boring to 84mm as bigger cams like displacement. Ive done research on the Pro2+ cam etc and have concluded that with the P72 head its easier to bore out the motor rather than gambling on the CTR piston as you can not adjust your dizzy much

I absolutely do not recommend boring your stock cylinders out to 84mm. If you go 84, do it right and go sleeved 84mm. and then put in an LS crank for a true 2L setup.

But other than that I think this thread deserves a nice face palm. These choices are even apples to apples.
 

AlexD

J13 sooo mad
depends i would expect over 250 minimum if i was to do a T3/T4 like i was going to do for s***s and giggles. I rather supercharge :]
You do realize T3/T4 is simply housing type right? It in no way refers to the characteristics of the turbo other than what type of flange the housing has.

And I know plenty of people running less than 10 psi making less than 250whp on a B series. Its all in the size and characteristics of the turbo.
 
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