CV Axle Install

jcrabb13

Registered Abuser
Alright, this has been a stressful few days trying to do what only should have taken a few hours. so heres a complete full walkthrough with a few helpful hints from the experts (being the people i asked, not myself)

I'm stealing pictures from these threads (don't hate me):
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2848528
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=382416

EXPERT TIP #1
Before you remove your wheel, it might be worthwhile to take a breaker bar to the axle nut if you dont have center caps. that thing is a pain in the ass and having it on the ground will obviously prevent the rotors from rotating.

Anyways, take off your wheels and get the car on jack stands/lift (I wouldn't suggest that order :thumbs up)

If you haven't already, get the axle nut off.

Now remove these:




Now you can remove the cotter pin and 17mm castle nut holding the LCA to the lower ball joint:


Now it's time to break the LCA free of that ball join bolt (first pain in the ass for me)
EXPERT TIP #2
DO WHAT THIS VIDEO DOES

Use a hammer to knock the axle out of the wheel hub assembly:


Now pry the old axle out of the transmission:


NOT-SO-EXPERT TIP #3
this was also tough for me, so i crammed the crowbar up in there and beat at the other end with a mallet till it popped three. Coy also told me to have a friend wiggle the axle in all directions while trying to pry it free. NOTE: DO NOT pull on the axle, you will just pull it out of the inner boot and grease goes everywhere. gross

Push the new axle in (compress the boots and hammer it in till it sets in place (you should be able to tell)

REASSEMBLE! order shouldnt be too important, but dont forget that cotter pin!


oh and most suggest to purchase a new axle nut instead of risking the threads on your new axle. dont forget to hammer a notch into the new one!



EXPERT TIP #4
If you lost a lot of tranny fluid, its probably not a bad idea to replace that at this time.
 

Kinta94

Member
awesome write up pictures are great wish I would of had this a few years back when I was first learning about things like this.
Good Job! :thumbs up:
 

ixcocoyxi

RS owner
here was my idea if you dont remove the axle nut due to having center caps

stick a screwdriver in the fins of the rotor brake and let the screw driver lean up against the caliper. use a rag if you painted your calipers or have brake upgrades.



exploded view of pinching the axle nut to keep it from backing out

 

nuenjin

Professional Ametuer
Good explanation man. I don't think I've ever had to remove the support fork you described in the first pictures but it probably would have been easier to do so.

I just did similar work on my car and the following picture is what happens when a shop installs the axle nut with an impact gun instead of a torque wrench and I have to remove it with my hammer and cold chisel.

 
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jcrabb13

Registered Abuser
nuenjin said:
Good explanation man. I don't think I've ever had to remove the support fork you described in the first pictures but it probably would have been easier to do so.
Click to expand...
you are correct, you dont have to remove that fork, but i found it much easier to control the axle with it removed (only one of the 2 write-ups i wrote had that removed) but since its only one more bolt i figured id put it in there and let people do it the easier way :)
 

slowtec

Internet Tough Guy
nuenjin said:
...I have to remove it with my hammer and cold chisel.
Click to expand...
Expert level Axle Nut removal right there. My dad used to do this to remove axle nuts back before I was even a twinkle in his eye. He tried to explain it to me over the phone when I was stuck a few months ago... I never thought I'd come across it out in the wild. You sir, have my respect.
 
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