teggy still not fast enough for me!

[DopenessFool]

okay so i replaced the o2 and spark plugs and that made a difference in my speed and shaky idle.
but the acceleration problem is still there when its cold.

when the engine is cold the car boggs a hell of a alot.take like 10 seconds to get off 10mph
for the few seconds it start to shake and feels like its gna die on you .

when you warm it up for at least 10 minutes it still boggs but it accelerates much better
in simple text cold=small acceleration warm=some acceleration

what could be wrong?

also does cold air coming out the exhaust make a difference. [i dont have a cold air intake]

could it be spark wires?fuel filter?

 

[JGvtec]

So basically your saying your car feels sluggish?

When was the last time you had a tune up done.

 

[BrokenTalon27]

Change the cap, rotor, wires, and fuel filter as well. Then clean the IACV and the FITV.

 

[DopenessFool]

Change the cap, rotor, wires, and fuel filter as well. Then clean the IACV and the FITV.

i also heard to clean the MAP ?

i mean cause im wondering why does it run like this when on a cold engine i?

 

[BrokenTalon27]

i also heard to clean the MAP ?

i mean cause im wondering why does it run like this when on a cold engine i?

You could check it, Also might want to check the TPS.

 

[DopenessFool]

okay will do. does it take longg?!

on my other question.
why does cold air come out the exhaust?isnt suppose to be warm?

 

[Md426]

Is it throwing any codes? Cold exhaust huh? Depending on how cold it is it could cool down by the time it comes out the tail pipe, especially if it's a thin aftermarket/aluminum exhaust. Cold air is actually better for the car to go "faster" as it's more dense. Check that your getting fuel pressure, spark, and check your timing.

okay will do. does it take longg?!

on my other question.
why does cold air come out the exhaust?isnt suppose to be warm?

Checking the TPS is easy, unplug the connector and use a volt meter to check that the voltage goes up when the throttle body is opened. When its fully closed it shouldn't be 0 though, just above 0.

 

[WAR 178]

is there any extra slack in your throttle cable? also swap/change the coolant along with the cap/rotor/iacv/fitv...then look for some sort of leak in your vacc lines maybe

 

[DopenessFool]

yeah the exhaust is aftermarket .

and do you guys really think changing the cap,rotor will make a diffference?

does this relate to the car "buckling" when you step on the pedal to fast when your driving?

 

[Cripton805]

Coolant temp sensor or thermostat can give u probs too. Also, fitv

 

[DopenessFool]

do you think adjusting the idle could calm down the vibrations?
i feel the vibrations coming from underneath?

 

[gmni03]

hows the idle? does the tac bounce around? u might have a vacc leak.

 

[3Axis]

Check all your vacuum lines. make sure they have no cracks or holes. Also the intake duct you should check. The FITV mounted under the throttle body has a collar in it that loosens over time. It should be tightened up.

does this relate to the car "buckling" when you step on the pedal to fast when your driving?

My car does that every now and then. Usually it stumbles between 2000 and 3200 RPM. I still haven't figured out what it is. The distributor cap is supposedly new, but with a crappy gasket. I am replacing the O2 sensor next. My mechanic thinks it's something to do with the intake manifold, however that's possible. It stumbled ever since I had it (Which is about 8 months now).

 

[DopenessFool]

no.thats the thing i dont want people to get confused with.
the idle is finee. theres just alot of vibrations in park and at a stoplight.

 

[3Axis]

A misfire? Bad engine mounts? Flywheel?