I have Benson sleeves, they are good to 55psi, much better then a block gaurd. My motor was built by Mike Laskey, do a fucking google search on Mike Laskey or Earl Laskey. Do I own a machine shop? Nope, so why the fuck would I put my bottom end together? I would much rather have a professional do it, have it balanced and blue printed and backed by a warranty. Have I put engines together on my own, sure have. Your comment comes off as if someone is building my car for me, when in fact that holds 0 truth, just look at the build thread for fucks sake, im a pic whore lol. You can clearly see that all the work has been done in my garage, not at some shop. I don't fuck with shops outside of machine shops. Even then I only go to the best of the best. I had a bad expierence with local shop at a young age on a z6 build and learned then and there that you get what you pay for.
Im not here to piss anyone off or hurt feelings, just saying your being took if you have over 3k in the bottom end you listed. Also you do know that .040 isn't 84mm right? Its actually 82mm. Also the link I sent you to the Eagle rods are in fact H beams which are the same ones listed on Eagle for 70 dollars more. I'm telling you, if you search the internet you will find much better deals on every part you have listed.
Block gaurds are a thing from the late 90s to early 2000's, before people started re-sleeving blocks. They are an old technology that needs to be left alone. They are known to distort cylinder walls due to improper cooling. I don't care how many holes you drill in them, they are a waste. For the record I had a z6 with a block gaurd in it
Golden Eagle has stated in threads "we sell them, because people still buy them", thats not a real thing of confidence lol.
Idk what your power goals are, if its under 400 I would stick to stock sleeves, if its above 400 I would look into having a block sleeved. The old saying "you get what you pay for" is so damn true when it comes to engine builds.
I know several Honda mecanics that know nothing about D, H, or even B series. The reason being is its outdated technology by Honda's standards. Most cars that go into Honda for service have J, K, R, or F attatched to the front of the engine block. I don't know everything, but I do know more then most typical internet posters you will meet. My intention was never to knock your setup, just to show you ways to save money and still end up with the same parts you have already planned on using.