Boost Questions

[Brandon]

Hey guys, I just bought a turbo kit for my 1999 Integra LS. Consists of a Greddy TD05 18g turbo, front mount intercooler, all necessary piping, hks bov, 450cc injectors, new oem fuel pump, boost controller, and turbo timer. When I get it installed, I plan on me and a couple buddies doing it. I want to install it and keep it on around 3psi until I can take it to get it tuned on the dyno. My goal is 250-275whp and to be used as a daily driver. All internals are stock right now, what do I need to do to be able to daily drive it at around 10psi? I was wanting to keep stock internals, just get a 70mm throttle body, skunk2 intake manifold, and do a 3in turbo back exhaust and get a hondata s300 with a good tune. Will I be able to reach my goal with just that and be able to daily drive it? If not, what will I need to do internally to get it to run reliably and safe at 250-275whp?
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Jugallette

 

[Tam4511]

stock internals can hold up too 300hp,
10psi is the highest u want to go with stock internals though

 

[mirrorimg]

Hey guys, I just bought a turbo kit for my 1999 Integra LS. Consists of a Greddy TD05 18g turbo, front mount intercooler, all necessary piping, hks bov, 450cc injectors, new oem fuel pump, boost controller, and turbo timer. When I get it installed, I plan on me and a couple buddies doing it. I want to install it and keep it on around 3psi until I can take it to get it tuned on the dyno. My goal is 250-275whp and to be used as a daily driver. All internals are stock right now, what do I need to do to be able to daily drive it at around 10psi? I was wanting to keep stock internals, just get a 70mm throttle body, skunk2 intake manifold, and do a 3in turbo back exhaust and get a hondata s300 with a good tune. Will I be able to reach my goal with just that and be able to daily drive it? If not, what will I need to do internally to get it to run reliably and safe at 250-275whp?

Get it tuned RIGHT AWAY. You can limp it to your tuner, but do not go into boost.

 

[eaz_e]

To my understanding I don't believe your able to push that much HP on just 10psi with out modifications to the turbo. Due to the kit having a 2inch or 2.25inch DP that restricts a-lot of power, therefore making you either turn up the boost or making a custom DP (or find a dp online) also the internal wastegate is known to boost creep so be very careful when you decide to run it at 10psi. I would also recommend that you do upgrade your fuel pump to a 255lph.

 

[BigMac88]

275-300whp DD is absolutely feasible; that turbo maxes out around 330-340whp. The first favor you can do for yourself is to get a good tune. The second favor you can do for yourself is to get some forged pistons and rods, and some ARP head studs. Yes, SOME people can get away with 300whp on stock internals for a while. However if you want a truly reliable DD you won't skimp on the weak link - in this case the bottom end. You may have to run more than 10psi, but that's totally fine! Power, not PSI is the determining factor here.

stock internals can hold up too 300hp,
10psi is the highest u want to go with stock internals though

PSI is irrelevant to safety because the PSI/power ratio is relevant to the turbo. Stick to judging by power numbers :thumbs up

 

[heykosal]

Get it tuned RIGHT AWAY. You can limp it to your tuner, but do not go into boost.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^very..no not just very..MOST important!!!!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I had mine towed to TurboXS..was planning on getting it tuned by Evans but as most of you guys know, it was brutally ripped(stolen) away from me.

But 300whp is relatively easily obtainable on that turbine, with a few supporting mods. It'll spool quick too. Like mentioned above, it's a good idea to upgrade to higher tensile strength headstuds, although not 100% necessary. But I'd do it if I were you, in order to increase reliability. Boost increases cylinder pressures dramatically, and with the extra clamping force of ARP studs, you won't worry one bit about the head lifting. Plus,when torqued correctly, they're reusable(unlike stockers). Make certain you invest in quality parts. All components of a well and thoroughly engineered turbo system are uber important. I had Synapse Engineering wastegate and blow-off-valve(because of their unique designs); they cost a little more, are well engineered, and IMHO, are superior pieces. But well R&D'ed makes(HKS, Greddy, TiAL) will serve you just as well. If you couldn't tell already by what I'm saying/recommending, I just liked having that peace of mind of that Synapse, what I'd consider, superior WG/BOV combo. You can spend a little extra and buy a component once, or cheap out and probably end up having to buy a part twice, which will cost a LOT more because you'll shell out for the cheapo part to begin with, then when it breaks you'll really lighten your wallet paying for the better piece, you'll be smacking yourself then:smackself:
Also, if it were me, I'd invest in forged pistons while you've got the head off. Go with lower compression so you can up the boost and still have a safety margin. And if you REALLY want to have zero worries, two words..Darton MIDs:thumbs up Well while you've got everything apart, go ahead and hot tank the block, have the stock crank micropolished and balanced(with the crankshaft pulley in place), and P&P the head(sort of a must with a non-VTEC head). With these supporting modifications, 300+whp will be a cinch, with a conservative tune and non-stressed components.

But all these parts will be for naught if it's not tuned properly..so most importantly: make sure your motor is healthy enough for boost(tune-up, compression & leak-down testing) and Hondata.

If you generally do what I said, you'll hit 300+ reliable whp with NO worries.

OH btw, you've got a VTEC motor right?
EDIT: I just re-read the OP, with an LS you might have to up the boost a little higher than 10psi on that snail to make 300+whp. And another MUST HAVE to hit the magic 300 number is a 3inch turbo back(downpipe & exhaust), and make sure that at least the turbo flange on the DP is CNC machined, it would be nice if all the flanges were, but at the least the flange where it meets the snail..but what do I know? Kyle(dc2GS-R), Mark(speedin), Greg(Aussie), Paden(BrokenTalon27) and a few other members will be able to answer any question you have and give you sound advice with painstaking details.

 

[BigMac88]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^very..no not just very..MOST important!!!!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I had mine towed to TurboXS..was planning on getting it tuned by Evans but as most of you guys know, it was brutally ripped(stolen) away from me.

But 300whp is relatively easily obtainable on that turbine, with a few supporting mods. It'll spool quick too. Like mentioned above, it's a good idea to upgrade to higher tensile strength headstuds, although not 100% necessary. But I'd do it if I were you, in order to increase reliability. Boost increases cylinder pressures dramatically, and with the extra clamping force of ARP studs, you won't worry one bit about the head lifting. Plus,when torqued correctly, they're reusable(unlike stockers). Make certain you invest in quality parts. All components of a well and thoroughly engineered turbo system are uber important. I had Synapse Engineering wastegate and blow-off-valve(because of their unique designs); they cost a little more, are well engineered, and IMHO, are superior pieces. But well R&D'ed makes(HKS, Greddy, TiAL) will serve you just as well. If you couldn't tell already by what I'm saying/recommending, I just liked having that peace of mind of that Synapse, what I'd consider, superior WG/BOV combo. You can spend a little extra and buy a component once, or cheap out and probably end up having to buy a part twice, which will cost a LOT more because you'll shell out for the cheapo part to begin with, then when it breaks you'll really lighten your wallet paying for the better piece, you'll be smacking yourself then:smackself:
Also, if it were me, I'd invest in forged pistons while you've got the head off. Go with lower compression so you can up the boost and still have a safety margin. And if you REALLY want to have zero worries, two words..Darton MIDs:thumbs up Well while you've got everything apart, go ahead and hot tank the block, have the stock crank micropolished and balanced(with the crankshaft pulley in place), and P&P the head(sort of a must with a non-VTEC head). With these supporting modifications, 300+whp will be a cinch, with a conservative tune and non-stressed components.

But all these parts will be for naught if it's not tuned properly..so most importantly: make sure your motor is healthy enough for boost(tune-up, compression & leak-down testing) and Hondata.

If you generally do what I said, you'll hit 300+ reliable whp with NO worries.

OH btw, you've got a VTEC motor right?
EDIT: I just re-read the OP, with an LS you might have to up the boost a little higher than 10psi on that snail to make 300+whp. And another MUST HAVE to hit the magic 300 number is a 3inch turbo back(downpipe & exhaust), and make sure that at least the turbo flange on the DP is CNC machined, it would be nice if all the flanges were, but at the least the flange where it meets the snail..but what do I know? Kyle(dc2GS-R), Mark(speedin), Greg(Aussie), Paden(BrokenTalon27) and a few other members will be able to answer any question you have and give you sound advice with painstaking details.

This too :lol:

 

[Brandon]

what about installing my turbo kit and having it towed to get tuned and get it tuned at like 5psi. Then could I daily drive it safely until I could afford to buy some lower compression pistons, arp head studs, and do everything else in order to build the motor to hold 300whp? Or will it still not be safe?
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VAPIR ONE VAPORIZER

 

[dc2GS-R]

You will not be able to only run 3 or 5 psi on that turbo. The internal wastegate is set higher than that.

To near 300hp, you will want larger injectors and and upgraded fuel pump. The throttle body and intake manifold upgrades are money that could probably be better spent somewhere else. A new clutch will be a definite necessity.

 

[Brandon]

so pretty much before I install the kit and have it tuned... I need to get the s300, arp head studs, lower compression pistons, all of that stuff?
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Subaru legacy history

 

[corona88]

so pretty much before I install the kit and have it tuned... I need to get the s300, arp head studs, lower compression pistons, all of that stuff?

You dont have to get an s300, im getting an s100 because all I will be doing in daily driving. No track action for me so it does the job I need it to do.

 

[eaz_e]

Ok you don't have to get lower compression pistons, you honestly could be fine running 8psi on a tune with out lower compression pistons. How much WHP you would have I wouldnt know.. But I believe your injectors if they are the RC 310's that come in the kit are only good till about 210hp. I'd upgrade to some 440cc Injectors.. your looking to do 250whp then your bottom end should be fine. If your looking for 300whp then yes you will need to get low comp. piston, rods, sleeves..ect.. But just upgrade your injectors, fuel pump and to a 3inch DP you should be able to do 250whp. You will be safe at 250whp DD'ing it..

 

[Brandon]

Ok you don't have to get lower compression pistons, you honestly could be fine running 8psi on a tune with out lower compression pistons. How much WHP you would have I wouldnt know.. But I believe your injectors if they are the RC 310's that come in the kit are only good till about 210hp. I'd upgrade to some 440cc Injectors.. your looking to do 250whp then your bottom end should be fine. If your looking for 300whp then yes you will need to get low comp. piston, rods, sleeves..ect.. But just upgrade your injectors, fuel pump and to a 3inch DP you should be able to do 250whp. You will be safe at 250whp DD'ing it..

I already have 440cc injectors, and a 3in down pipe. I just need to get a fuel pump out of what you said
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California Mdecial Marijuana Dispensaries

 

[Brandon]

So with my turbo kit and what it consists of(440cc injectors, 3in DP, 18g turbo, front mount intercooler...) if I were to get my s300, skunk2 70mm throttlebody, skunk2 intake manifold, bigger fuel pump, and 3in exhaust(already have DP), I should be able to daily drive 250-275whp safely?
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SUZUKI BOULEVARD S50 SPECIFICATIONS

 

[dc2GS-R]

250whp is about maxing out 440cc injectors.

You can skip the manifold and throttle body, they are not necessary to hit 250-275whp. Spend the saved money on 550cc injectors, 255lph fuel pump, wideband o2 sensor and a clutch, if you haven't replaced it yet.