So exactly how to i go about doing this. Would this fall under the, " sponsor on this site has these parts catagory." Like you were saying earlier? increasing the bore of the cylinders, increasing the compression ratio by using taller domed pistons, by increasing the stroke (expensive), and by getting aftermarket camshafts and valvetrain and having it tuned.
I dont mean to sound like an idiot man i just wanna get a better idea of what i need to do and how i need to go about doing it. Im really not slow, im just learning slow i guess.
A machine shop must bore the block to accept larger pistons. If you want to put ITR pistons on your LS rods, the rods need to be milled to provide proper clearance. Im not sure if CTR pistons will fit without milling, but they will bump you compression even higher. The shop will have to press the old piston pins out, and press the new ones in after the milling (if they have to).
When I had my block machined, I bought pistons and the machine shop bored out the block to match the pistons. It was 82mm, but the shop wanted to get the tolerances right before they arbitrarily bored the block to 82mm, as the pistons could have been slightly smaller/larger than 82.00mm. I looked for the topic with the pistons I am talking about, and cant seem to find them. I got my pistons off of Ebay. Im sure you can find many of the parts you want there, but TunerSports is the ClubIntegra's sales website. Im sure you can PM JayJay and he could get you almost anything you want.
If you want a basic rundown on building up a LS... I can give you the basics. Im not going to spoon feed you. I did mine myself, I have a build thread on here. These are things you want to upgrade/machine work should you go with a B18B1 motor.
Block:
Deck (mill the top of the block if it is uneven/warped)
Pistons: ITR or CTR style pistons. (I used RSmachine cast pistons in 82mm) You can get forged pistons for increased strength, but they are SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive. ($180 v. $500)
-Sizes:81mm (stock) up to 84mm (The size of the pistons in a B20)
Rods: Mill stock rods to fit pistons. You can increase the strength by having them shot-peened, or upgrade to forged rods, but again, this is at your discretion.
Cylinders: Bore to match pistons, hone.
ARP Rod bolts for superior strength over OEM
Head:
Resurface (if the head has any warpage)
Valve job (basic or 3 angle)
Port and polish for better flow
Valvetrain
Camshafts: Crower (402,403,404), Brian Crower, JG (301,303), Crane.
Springs/retainers Upgraded to match the camshafts. OEM are not suitable in the more aggressive cams because of the possibility of valve float.
ARP head studs
I'm sure I am missing something but this is a basic run down if you want to squeeze the most out of your engine. If I had the chance to go back when I was rebuilding my engine, I would first have just changed my mind and gone with a B18C1, but if that wasn't possible, I would have bored out the cylinders to 84mm.
Just giving my 2 cents. May shot peen the connecting rods, get forge piston head or forged conecting rods, balance the crankshaft, knife edge the counterweights. ARP studs and bolts. This will make for a strong bottom end.
This maybe contraversial by saying use oem bearings (journal, connecting rod) they are made for longevity. Usually with performance bearing, they are made only for few races or some time period where one would need to go back into the engine.
The crank doesn't necessarily need to be balanced. It wont hurt, but Honda makes sure their cranks are pretty well balanced from the factory. The weak link in the LS bottom end is the rod bolts. They are the first to fail. Also, he may not be able to use the proper color-coded bearings if the crank has any uneven wear and needs to be cut/polished.
