Muckman
Not a M0derator
Re: the blockgaurd - Its not needed for <350hp. Some push 400 on stock sleeves. If you are still worried about strength then the only block guard I would even consider is this place http://www.cylindersupportsystem.comsupertech block guard not needed for 300hp
arp main and head studs no main studs
ACL race bearings size may not work
bottom end gasket kit good
top end gasket kit good
wiseco pistons and manley h beam rods good. what compression and bore?
gates kevlar racing timing belt Prefer oem
Eagle forged crank shaft totally unnecessary for what your doing
ATI Street Super Damper Crank Pulley unnecessary
Hondata S300 P72 P28 Engine Management System ECU great
However if you want to get serious then the best option is to resleeve which is around $1,000 but completely unnecessary for your power level.
Re: main studs - Again not neesed for your power level and main studs increase clamping force on the main caps which in turns distorts the bores. To install main studs correctly you need to line hone the mains. Thats pricey and it moves the crank center line. Just stick to head studs.
Re: the bearings - Those ACL std size bearings are around an OEM green in thickness. They may or may not give you the right clearance. You either can use your old bearings to measure and calculate the new bearing size or just take a chance and order the ACLs. But understand you may need to order different size bearings. However I feel the quality of ACLs is fine.
Re: Pistons - What compression are you aiming for? And what fuel do you plan on running? Youll want to keep a minimum bore if sticking with stock sleeves 81.5mm. And those rods are fine.
Re: Eagle cranks - very expensive and no better than OEM crank. Only use Eagles if you are building a stroker setup.