what did I just buy? sub.

Cripton805

New Member
My buddy just sold me a 12" Kicker Comp Sub and a Pioneer PRS-x720 amp.
The sub is in a ported box too. All for $120.

I want to run this on my stock deck "for theft" looks stock.

Would you guys say this is a good setup?
I might know about tegs, but I dnt care much for sound. Lmao

Im mainly wondering about the amp. He was making a big deal about it.
 

BeatBox

Real Good!
its a decent set up, im not a fan of Kicker but they do make some good stuff
they have the other subs that have the silver cone(center of subwoofer) and are cheap these with the black cone are the BETTER ones
the amp retails for like $500 when it fist came out, for what you paid not bad at all :) BUT it doesnt put out much power FTL

as far as running the stock deck, i would buy a cheap after market one to make it easier to hook the amplifier with.

you can always take the face of the deck and not worry about if ppl are gonna break into your car, damage to the vehicle would worry me more than the actual deck itself, plus if u buy a used one u dont have to worry about spending too much $$

Overall a good buy
 

Chi-Town-DC4

Specialist
Not bad.. You can hook it up to the stock deck using a line output converter that you get at best buy or walmart.. You tap into the rear speaker wires and it converts to rca jacks .., it will sound better with an after market tho..
Good find and good luck
 

dlo253

Active Member
^ yep...did that in another car. You can get one for like $20. Love of for keeping thieves away. And if the bass isn't enough.or too much.. you can always adjust the fader, so simple haha. If your not into sound that much it will be a fine setup I'm sure. You running stock speakers??
 

WAR 178

Premium User
Chi stated it right as above...the output of the stock deck wont do the aftermarket parts any justice. also upgrade the stock interior speakers as well. There are also ways of having the stock deck remain and add an aftermarket unit hidden for the ultimate stealth setup.
 

Chi-Town-DC4

Specialist
Yeah theres a couple ways to do that you can splice the aftermarket into the stock (only use one at a time or just have the factory hooked up by power acc and ground and the aftermarket hooked up to everything.. You can make it so the factory radio has to be on to turn the aftermarket on.. Theres alot of ways to do it.. If you have any questions you can give me a holler
 


Cripton805

New Member
A little update:

Today 'I' hooked everything up. It was easy. I don't really know why people pay for this. All I had was common knowledge going into this with just a couple articles here and there. I also just pretty much knew the obvious. Everything was also in pieces, like the wiring fuse, etc...Since I did it myself, i bought premium wire 4 gauge. The only thing I needed help on was the converter for the headunit RCA's. The power wire is cherry, that thing is crazy, i had never felt wire that is more premium than that. It is trully 4 gauge and I had to shove it in the fitting of the amp. Its braided as hell and flexible as hell and soft too.=)


Anyway, I ran into a problem with the Pioneer Amp. It would cut off as soon as I raised the volume really high and was a constant ON and OFF situation. My guess is that i need to install a cap because I dont think it gets enough power or it fluctuates AND/OR I was running it bridged and I didnt even try to bother running it not. This Pioneer amp has three 30 amp fuses. I had a Fosgate amp lying around for years that I decided to finally use.

Review... this thing bumps pretty hard. Any harder and I think it will crack my windshield further. Then again its in a small car, but Im pretty impressed to what this 1 sub can do. I have it on a STOCK deck and its on the lowest bass setting. I can still feel my chest beat pretty hard through every song. I might eventually get annoyed and swap in a 10". I feel like my panels are tearing off. Lmao

Thanks for the help guys!
 
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Cripton805

New Member
WAR 178 said:
Chi stated it right as above...the output of the stock deck wont do the aftermarket parts any justice. also upgrade the stock interior speakers as well. There are also ways of having the stock deck remain and add an aftermarket unit hidden for the ultimate stealth setup.
Click to expand...
I have infinity rear speaker and stock fronts. I have some German MB quarts that I bought awhile back and theyre just sitting. The legit ones from Germany, not the china things theyre making now. I hope they fit, but im pretty sure the window wont have clearance.

As far as deck, youre right. I already hit its limit. It still sounds ok, but I know I can def get more out of an aftermarket one. I cant even tune it right and the RCA converter is likely to be holding it back too.
 
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Chi-Town-DC4

Specialist
You need to turn the gain on the amp down never run it all the way up.. Put it at 50% the highest you should go is 75%
 

Chi-Town-DC4

Specialist
You need to turn the gain on the amp down never run it all the way up.. Put it at 50% the highest you should go is 75%
 

WAR 178

Premium User
I think the amp problem isnt the fact of a cap(no real sense in one!) Its the way you wired up the amp and the sub. You have to figure what type of sub you have ( i.e. the ohms) 2 or 4 is what im guessing. Now check the stats on the amp as well.
It may handle being bridged to mono but not be stable for long depending on the drain of the sub. You gotta play with what audio parts you have to get it right. Also an aftermarket deck gives you a TON of options regarding EQ tweeks and RCA hook up settings....

A 4 gauge is going to cause a quick drainn from the battery to get its power for the bass & amp. OVERKILL in a teggy. Go with a smaller amp(bridged to mono) and try and use a 6 or 8 gauge wire(plenty of power and no major drain)
G/L bro
 

Chi-Town-DC4

Specialist
The wire gauge doesn't effect drain its the amp if your running a 200 rms watt amp you don't need 4 gauge like war 178 said 6 - 8 will do Just fine 4 gauge i recommend for 800+ but like I said the gauge doesn't effect anything its the amp draw.. If your amp is cutting out you either need to turn down the gain oor turn down the eq settings also check the line output converter make sure that's not to high..
A cap isn't a bad idea considering the size of our batteries and output of our alternators it puts less strain on them making them last longer before we replace them
 

WAR 178

Premium User
all in all yes its mainly the amp as welll as the sub themselves causing the draw for power. I only state the gauge of the wire plays a factor on how fast the power/signal reaches the amp. Like a huge 1000 watt total 700rms amp with a 8g wire just wont perform (milkshake thru a straw)
Also where is the amp located? is it overheating?
also is the sub wired in series or parallel?
 
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