themiller13
New Member
Christmas came early as package after package came in the mail this week.
I picked up:
2 red lettered key blanks
The hatch and driver's door locking mechanisms.
The shifter dust seal
Gaskets for the oil pan, intake mani, exhaust mani, valve cover, sparkplug ring, both VTEC solenoid, distributor seal, thermo, and PCV box
Axel nuts
Hard race shifter bushings and motor mounts
A cam seal
Both axels
A fuel filter
Spark Plugs
Axel, front and rear main seals
Throw out bearing
Gates timing kit
Water pump
A bunch of new hardware for the mounts and manifolds.
Next pay check will cover the clutch and I'm hoping that will be it before I get it on the road. *Finger's crossed*
In the past few days I've replaced some of the gasketing on the upper part of the block. The Intake manifold had probably been on the car since it rolled off of the production line. It was cracked and pretty destroyed. Which I'm hoping explains why Cylinders 1 & 2 showed lean when I pulled the spark plugs. I'm going to smoke test everything when I get it back together. The Gasket was also trashed where the Coolant routes through the Intake Flange which explains the leak on that side of the block.
When the valve cover first came off the first thing that i noticed was how clean everything looked. Upon further looking it appears that someone has taken some sort of porting tool and ground off some of the corners so that oil will flow better. I forget what the actual term for this is.
It's also a nice surprise to find that the Valve Cover at some time really nice looking Metallic Blue paint under all of the grime dirt and oil that I've been cleaning off of the cover. It means that some one some where cared about the thing. I doubt it was the PO because of all of his "quality" work. I'm hopeful that the same person who oil ported the head, did the valve cover and all other internal work if there is any. The oil pan gasket is coming off on Monday so I'll get a better look at the insides to see if anything is noticeably different. The Cams didn't show any markings worth noting, The Valves from the topside looked to be in good condition. I'm anxious to find out whats under the oil pan. The PO said it revved out to 8500. So IDK what the means for internal work vs tune but we'll see. I plan to keep it at the stock redline when I switch to NepTune untill I balance the crank and build the motor.
In opening everything up I found the clutch did in fact wind up to be an ACT stage 4 6-puck clutch. With very very low life on it. Less than 1/32 of an inch between the Dowel that holds the puck down and the surface of the puck. So now I'm looking to replace it with something else. The fly wheel is in good condition and my techs told me that I can turn the surface of the Flywheel instead of buying a new one. My wallet thanked them for that. I'm split over the Competition Clutch Stage 2 or the Exedy stage 1, or something else in that price range. I haven't read to much around because I can't buy it for another week.
Hopefully once all of this is done and installed I can get to tuning the thing and getting it painted and tinted (in that order). The part out i"m hoping will turn a fast profit because I'm running out of time to be selling things. And working on this between work and school is quite challenging. I'm learning alot as I go through this all but only have at most 4 hours to work on it at any given time, sometimes my visits only last 30 minutes, really creates a fun challenge. I look forward to reading back through all of this to see how fast and far the car will have come since I've gotten it.
I had a really hard and long laugh at the suspension today as well. While walking under the car the shop manager points up to the left rear spring and goes. That sum' b*itch broke. And I was insistent on the spring being fine untill I looked at it. Not only was it not fine, but the spring had cracked twice. effectively lowering the ride height on that corner another 1-2 inches. I didn't get the chance to shoot a photo but I will the next time I'm up there.
On top of all of that I also fixed the Power steering deletion, removed a good deal of A/c components (cooler, condenser, lines...) fixed the rear hatch lock, found out I still need to fix the driver's door lock.
The driver's door might need to be re hinged. I haven't taken the time to figure it out because it's not a pressing issue but the door doesn't sit 100% flush to the body and if lifted up from the opposite side, the hinge has some vertical play in it. So that will need to be addressed at some point.
I picked up:
2 red lettered key blanks
The hatch and driver's door locking mechanisms.
The shifter dust seal
Gaskets for the oil pan, intake mani, exhaust mani, valve cover, sparkplug ring, both VTEC solenoid, distributor seal, thermo, and PCV box
Axel nuts
Hard race shifter bushings and motor mounts
A cam seal
Both axels
A fuel filter
Spark Plugs
Axel, front and rear main seals
Throw out bearing
Gates timing kit
Water pump
A bunch of new hardware for the mounts and manifolds.
Next pay check will cover the clutch and I'm hoping that will be it before I get it on the road. *Finger's crossed*
In the past few days I've replaced some of the gasketing on the upper part of the block. The Intake manifold had probably been on the car since it rolled off of the production line. It was cracked and pretty destroyed. Which I'm hoping explains why Cylinders 1 & 2 showed lean when I pulled the spark plugs. I'm going to smoke test everything when I get it back together. The Gasket was also trashed where the Coolant routes through the Intake Flange which explains the leak on that side of the block.
When the valve cover first came off the first thing that i noticed was how clean everything looked. Upon further looking it appears that someone has taken some sort of porting tool and ground off some of the corners so that oil will flow better. I forget what the actual term for this is.
It's also a nice surprise to find that the Valve Cover at some time really nice looking Metallic Blue paint under all of the grime dirt and oil that I've been cleaning off of the cover. It means that some one some where cared about the thing. I doubt it was the PO because of all of his "quality" work. I'm hopeful that the same person who oil ported the head, did the valve cover and all other internal work if there is any. The oil pan gasket is coming off on Monday so I'll get a better look at the insides to see if anything is noticeably different. The Cams didn't show any markings worth noting, The Valves from the topside looked to be in good condition. I'm anxious to find out whats under the oil pan. The PO said it revved out to 8500. So IDK what the means for internal work vs tune but we'll see. I plan to keep it at the stock redline when I switch to NepTune untill I balance the crank and build the motor.
In opening everything up I found the clutch did in fact wind up to be an ACT stage 4 6-puck clutch. With very very low life on it. Less than 1/32 of an inch between the Dowel that holds the puck down and the surface of the puck. So now I'm looking to replace it with something else. The fly wheel is in good condition and my techs told me that I can turn the surface of the Flywheel instead of buying a new one. My wallet thanked them for that. I'm split over the Competition Clutch Stage 2 or the Exedy stage 1, or something else in that price range. I haven't read to much around because I can't buy it for another week.
Hopefully once all of this is done and installed I can get to tuning the thing and getting it painted and tinted (in that order). The part out i"m hoping will turn a fast profit because I'm running out of time to be selling things. And working on this between work and school is quite challenging. I'm learning alot as I go through this all but only have at most 4 hours to work on it at any given time, sometimes my visits only last 30 minutes, really creates a fun challenge. I look forward to reading back through all of this to see how fast and far the car will have come since I've gotten it.
I had a really hard and long laugh at the suspension today as well. While walking under the car the shop manager points up to the left rear spring and goes. That sum' b*itch broke. And I was insistent on the spring being fine untill I looked at it. Not only was it not fine, but the spring had cracked twice. effectively lowering the ride height on that corner another 1-2 inches. I didn't get the chance to shoot a photo but I will the next time I'm up there.
On top of all of that I also fixed the Power steering deletion, removed a good deal of A/c components (cooler, condenser, lines...) fixed the rear hatch lock, found out I still need to fix the driver's door lock.
The driver's door might need to be re hinged. I haven't taken the time to figure it out because it's not a pressing issue but the door doesn't sit 100% flush to the body and if lifted up from the opposite side, the hinge has some vertical play in it. So that will need to be addressed at some point.
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