Safe Nitrous on a B18B? (stock internals)

[LSiNtegraDB7]

Makes sense haha. I was doing some googling and reading in the Nitrous 101 section, and it said wet kits are more difficult and harder to install. With wet it said you need an intake designed for wet flow, I'd have to buy this right? I've learned more about it though. Says with a dry kit you can spray past the MAF sensor, which would sense the colder denser air, then give more fuel. Wouldn't this be the easiest way? A dry kit sprayed past the MAF? Would you really have to do much tuning using this method?

Types of nitrous systems

There are three types of nitrous systems: "Dry", "Wet Single-Point", and "Wet Multi-Point". A nitrous system is primarily concerned with introducing fuel and nitrous into the engine's cylinders, and combining them for most efficient combustion.

"Dry" nitrous system

In a "Dry" nitrous system, extra fuel required is introduced through the fuel injectors, keeping the upper intake dry of fuel. This property is what gives the "Dry" system its name. Fuel flow can be increased either by increasing the pressure in the fuel injection system, or by modifying the vehicles' computer to increase the time the fuel injectors remain open during the engine cycle. This is typically done by spraying nitrous past the MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow), which then sends a signal to the vehicles computer telling it that it sees colder denser air, and that more fuel is needed. This is typically not an exact method of adding fuel. Once additional fuel has been introduced, it can burn with the extra oxygen provided by the Nitrous, providing additional power.

"Wet Single-Point" nitrous system

A "Wet Single-Point" nitrous system introduces the fuel and nitrous together, causing the upper intake to become wet with fuel, usually in a spray-bar plate. However, the intake must be designed for wet flow (for example, carburetors also require a wet flow intake), as distribution problems or intake backfires may result. Dry-flow intakes are designed to contain only air, which will travel through smaller pipes and tighter turns with less pressure, whereas Wet-flow intakes are designed to contain a mixture of fuel and air. "Wet" nitrous systems tend to produce more power than "Dry" systems, but are correspondingly more expensive and difficult to install.

 

[speedin]

Makes sense haha. I was doing some googling and reading in the Nitrous 101 section, and it said wet kits are more difficult and harder to install. With wet it said you need an intake designed for wet flow, I'd have to buy this right? I've learned more about it though. Says with a dry kit you can spray past the MAF sensor, which would sense the colder denser air, then give more fuel. Wouldn't this be the easiest way? A dry kit sprayed past the MAF? Would you really have to do much tuning using this method?

Yes and no.. The ECU can only compensate so much, that limits you. Also it would be a rough sudden adjustment and it would have to calculate everytime. But it does work, dont get me wrong. I just wouldnt say it works better than a wet kit. As for a intake, just a ebay smooth tube will work. I used a ebay intake pipe, ran into my stock airbox and a icebox set-up (I have a write-up on how to do this on the site here somewhere) its easy. A wet kit does take more to install, but you can simply splice into your fuel line with the required hardware in the ZEX kit. Just splice in after the fuel filter and before the fuel rail. There are other ways to splice but thats the simplest.

EDIT, looks like you already have an intake, so your fine on the intake.

 

[LSiNtegraDB7]

Alright, I'm understanding more and more with each post haha. I downloaded the instructions from the NOS website on the dry kit, and it says it was designed for use with stock engine settings, thats why I was thinking it wouldnt need to be tuned. Just said to use premium fuel. And yeah, I see how the wet kit works better. Just trying to find a reliable/safe setup, not too expensive, with not insanely difficult installation. Haha. But it seems the Wet kit isn't much harder, while it provides better performance, with the same reliability. Only thing would be the tuning, which I'm going to do alot of searching to fully understand all of this. Just the fact at how I would need a setup that can switch back and forth between maps and all, so Im not slow as hell when not spraying. Thats the only thing I like about the dry kit, not having to do that. Plus the problem like I said is the fact that Im still very noobish when it comes to cars, trying to learn all I can, and getting my cousin to help with everything I decide to do. He's never done anything with nitrous, so I want to learn it all before I ask his help (he tends to do it the way he would think it would work, not the way it should be done, so I would like to know what properly needs to be done so I can stop him everyonce in a while haha) Thanks again for all the help. I'm learning a ton, and no where near done yet haha.

 

[speedin]

Your missing the deal on the switching maps bit.. If you get tuned you would switch maps on BOTH dry and wet. You would need a piggyback ECU like Hondata or Kpro. Then split your N2O activation wire and run it to a lead on the piggyback ecu, once the ecu sees signal on that port it will automatically know to activate the N2O map (the one a tuner made). This is the best way to run nitrous, but you dont HAVE to do it.....

You can run both dry and wet w/o a tune. But you wont see as much power. Wet is better because its adding extra fuel, more fuel than the dry can (through ecu adjustments through the maf). So you can run a bigger shot. remember dry 25 is max, wet 75 is max. Because the wet is adding fuel so it can take in more nitrous.


Oh and yea forgot to mention use premium gas for dry and wet.

 

[LSiNtegraDB7]

Ohh, ok. I understand it now. If i decide to get nitrous, I'll save up enough to get hondata or something similar so I can install everything properly with a tune and all of that. I'm assuming its also probably safer running with a tune, correct?

 

[speedin]

Ohh, ok. I understand it now. If i decide to get nitrous, I'll save up enough to get hondata or something similar so I can install everything properly with a tune and all of that. I'm assuming its also probably safer running with a tune, correct?

Now you got it :thumbs up

 

[Carino]

does this apply for a b18a1 too? lol

 

[mteg]

If all your planning on doing is running nitrous, and not doing any interanls you don't need hondata, chrome, etc... You can tune the nitrous by changing jet size. FPR, fuel pump, rail, injectors are not needed. Run a 75hp nitrous express kit (I'm partial to them) and the motor will be fine. You also don't need to worry about retarding the ignition, as the computer is going to automatically do this. Unless you plan on running hondata or going with a oldskool apexi igntion/timing controller, the only way to retard igniton is by playing with your distributer which is going to make your car sluggish the 98% time your not spraying. If money is tight, get the NX mainline kit, header, intake, exhaust, and call it a day. If you want to fine tune, spend the money at the dyno and buy a few more jets-easiest way to tune (changing the amount of fuel/nitrous mixture). From this setup you can add more. I'm guessing with $1000 you could easily hit 160-170whp (more than a jrsc) and yet still be able to drive around getting good gas mileage when not in use.

 

[GrimLS]

Wow, thanks speedin' really informative! Helps me out too. xD

 

[mteg]

Holy old thread...Well I havent sprayed in a couple years since redoing the head...no problems at all from 75 wet shot.

 

[ZaWn]

I have a ZEX wet nitrous kit and I'm running 65shots on my B18B. You might have to retard your timing if you are doing 75shots. Other than that, stock internals with a few bolt-ons should be fine.

-Z-

 

[mteg]

I have a ZEX wet nitrous kit and I'm running 65shots on my B18B. You might have to retard your timing if you are doing 75shots. Other than that, stock internals with a few bolt-ons should be fine.

-Z-

I never once messed with the ignition timing, and I ran a 75 shot (actually the n2o jet was for 75, but the fuel one was for a 50 as I was running rich on the dyno). I think anything over 75 maybe 1-2 degrees. Only thing I did was run colder plugs.

 

[ZaWn]

I never once messed with the ignition timing, and I ran a 75 shot (actually the n2o jet was for 75, but the fuel one was for a 50 as I was running rich on the dyno). I think anything over 75 maybe 1-2 degrees. Only thing I did was run colder plugs.

Haha. I'm running 65n2o jet and the fuel is for the 55shot. I was running an A/F ratio of 10> prior to changing the jets. I guess the nitrous company prefers people running rich rather than lean cause they'll probably gonna get sued by people who blow up their motors from running too lean. I also switched to copper plugs that were colder as advised by a performance shop.

-Z-

 

[mteg]

Haha. I'm running 65n2o jet and the fuel is for the 55shot. I was running an A/F ratio of 10> prior to changing the jets. I guess the nitrous company prefers people running rich rather than lean cause they'll probably gonna get sued by people who blow up their motors from running too lean. I also switched to copper plugs that were colder as advised by a performance shop.

-Z-

No, it's a standard mixture that they set up-if car was tuned for optimum fuel ratio. Most manufacturers actually make the car run rich at WOT as to prolong engine life. If you took a bone stock integra and threw on a dyno, my guess is you would be in the 11/1 ratio at best, probably 10.5/1, 10/1 in some spots on the dyno. I made best numbers with nitrous closer to 12.5 to 13/1...which is completely safe. Just changing to a smaller fuel jet netted me a a good 15+ whp