Retrofit a g3

R13

The other asshole
NemesisCBR said:
Using silicone is a terrible idea and I prefer to stay away from it. Reusing the oem is perfectly fine as long as it gets a good seal. If not then use some aftermarket butyl.
Click to expand...
Oem got a good seal, I water tested it to make sure, :thumbs up

Sent from my Toaster
 

DC Guardian

Uniqueness defines
I was thinking of putting lamin-x on *brand new* lens to protect, but scientifically speaking, any additional layers after the lens would decrease output and distort the cut off. The lens itself already affects the output. -sigh- although i woudnt mind spending $40 a year replacing lens to keep it crystal looking.

Sent from my DC4
 


XslickwhitetegX

UKDM EXPERT
No need for film to keep your lens looking new, just use a sealant on your lights. I used Wolfgang Plastik Surface Sealant. Works great! Haven't had to clean my lights yet, it will be a year aug 5 sense I had my retroo done.
 

DC Guardian

Uniqueness defines
Hmm, ill look into that. Im not urged enough to buy via online though. Just in local auto stores, tbanks for the idea though!

Question though, how does sealant compare with non-oil/petroleum based wax?

Sent from my DC4
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
I havent decided on a sealant type to use. I want to test a few but funding doesnt allow me to spend money on it at the moment. I was going to do the spar varnish and mineral spirits method but california doesnt sell the oil based spar varnish anymore because of vac's. Gay.
 


Ganyon

Active Member
So, do these still get adjusted like before or is there some other way. I need to adjust these bastards.
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
Standard. Do your best to adjust by mounts and then use the vertical and horizontal adjustment screws.
 

Ganyon

Active Member
Thanks. I'll try it when it warms up. It seems that the passenger side points down a little, but the projector itself is loose. Like loose enough where I can move it with one finger.
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
That may or may not mean something. Theres going to be some amount of play as theres only 2 threaded screws and a ball joint that it pivots on holding the bracket. I can move my projector with just a push also but again this doesnt mean it is or isnt the same thing. If i move mine, it goes back when i release it. Doesnt make it "loose". If it is freely moving then it may have come off the thread. Have you used the adjustment screws yet?
 

Ganyon

Active Member
I haven't done anything yet. All I've done is looked at it. I turned the lights on and if I push down slightly on the bulb the projecter will move up and the cutoff line will be straight again. When I let off, it kinda just falls back down. The driver side is fine and it has the slight play like you were explaining.
 

Ganyon

Active Member
Nahh. What I'm trying to say is that when I touch the projector it seems like it goes to where its supposed to be, but when I let off, it just falls down. I'm going to try to adjust it, it could just be out of wack from shipping, but when I was walking with the whole headlight when I first got them, you could hear the projector moving around in the housing.
 

NemesisCBR

Boredest Member
I understood that part. What i was asking is if you installed it, noted that it was straight and then later saw it was no longer in the same position. But anyway, you seem certain its not the same condition as the driver side and its loose. This is not uncommon for a couple of reasons. People sometimes adjust the horizontal/vertical screws too much and the bracket becomes unthreaded. The other reason is that they become unthreaded because of age/wear and being made of plastic, so they just pop off. The only way to know and resolve it? Get inside.
 
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