Replacing the clutch...

jonnyblazex

New Member
I just picked up my first integra last week, a 92' LS, hatchback model. The clutch is real bad, I tried adjusting the cable, and got it to be able to move at least, but slips if you over feather the gas pedal. I have the clutch kit ordered, and is on the way and hope it gets here by this weekend. I am going to drop the trans this weekend, and was just wondering if anyone on here had any tips / anything to look for, or replace while im down there. Is there anything that is a real pain while taking out the transmission? I purchased a Haynes repair manual for the car, and plan to follow it along the way. In the manual it says you need a lift or hoist to support the engine while the transmission is removed, is this correct? Is there any way around this? I have all the tools needed, and floor jack, jack stands, and wood blocks if needed. I would just like a little input from some people who have done this job fist hand. Thanks a lot, and glad to be a part of the forum!
 

Prozon

Kris
Replace the throwout and pilot bearings. If you're not replacing the flywheel with the new clutch then make sure it's in good condition and get it resurfaced if needed.

I believe to be able to remove the transmission without the engine you have to drop it out of the bottom. Jacking it up and putting jack stands under the car just behind the engine bay should be helpful. I just finished rebuilding my transmission and I just pulled it all out of the top. (Engine included.)

And I highly suggest buying a factory service manual or downloading one online.
I bought a Haynes manual when I got the car and compared to the factory service manual it is absolutely useless.

Good luck.
 

jonnyblazex

New Member
I wish I would have known about the factory service manual, I didnt think it would be available. I agree, the Haynes manual sucks, and it cost 25 bucks. Do you have a link to where I could download a factory service manual? I did a little work on the car today, but wont be able to work on it any more until this weekend. I got the front axle nuts "unstacked" and got them broke free. I was messing with the parking brake, and cant get it to lock the rear wheels, like its not even tight enough to stop the wheel from spinning if I put a 3/8 drive socket wrench on the lug nut, to tighten/loosen the nut, and it will spin. I checked out the rear brake pads, and they look good, and the rear brakes work when applying the pedal. I dont want to jack up the front end until I can get this parking brake issue fixed, because I dont want to risk the car rolling backward, and falling off the stands and killing me. I read the manual (didnt have it with me when I was working on the car) and it says to remove the consol on the back side of the parking brake lever. I had the ash tray removed when I was there, and seen the nut the manual was refering to. It connects to the bar that the two cables connect to. One thing I noticed, was that the bar was not straight, the left cable was further forward, and the right was further back. Is this normal? The cables actuate on the rear calipers when the lever is applied, but dosent seem to be tight enough. The manual says the laver should have 6-10 clicks, and I know for a fact is has more than that, so I will try tightening it this weekend, and hopefully that fixes it. If anyone else has any suggestions or ideas, please let me know. Thanks again!
 

jesusfreeke

Member
Though you could technically get away without resurfacing the flywheel (and by technically, I mean the car will still move) I would not recommend it. Just looking at it is not going to tell you anything even if it is still shiny, which I highly doubt. If the clutch is as toast as you make it sound, and with the driving while toast as you stated "I got it to be able to move at least" It is sure to have been overly heated. You should be able to take it to O'rielly's or some other parts store or shop to have it turned/resurfaced. Just because someone else puts on here "I didnt do it and mine is fine" doesnt mean it was done right and it may limit your vehicles performance, and definitely the lifespan of your new clutch. To sum it up, take your time, do it right the first time, dont cut corners, and you will have a successful repair that will last
 


hidenplanvew

New Member
you can hold up the engine with a jackstand and block of wood under the engine on the oilpan... The hardest part is replacing the trans and trying to get the splines on the trans to line up to the splines on the clutch disk and make sure you have a buddy help you when putting the trans back into the car. I did it by myself in my D16z6 and it sucks but can be done be ready for pain and sweat haha... Hope you have done this before and get the flywheel re surfaced just think of it as making the flywheel lighter so you can go faster or something like that haha
 

91lsvtecDA9

New Member
theres no need to support the engine when removing the transmission. there is 3 engine mounts holding the engine to the frame. trust me, i've done it before. plus if u support the engine it'll be hard to remove the transmission. u need to let the engine sit on the mounts to remove the transmission and to align it back when re-installing it. U'll need a hammer and punch to remove the shift linkage from the transmission. dont damage it.u'll need a 12 point 10mm socket to remove the pressure plate bolts im pretty sure its a 12point 10mm. a 12 point 17 to remove the flywheel is u do. put some wooden blocks behind the rear wheels or bricks to keep it from rolling if u dont solve the ebrake issue.when u remove the trans, check the axle and halfshaft seals on the transmission for wear and leaks.
 

Prozon

Kris
Three engine mounts, two of which are bolted to the transmission as well, its easier just to leave it on a block. And the shift linkage unbolts, you don't need to hammer out the pin.
 

Prozon

Kris
Scratch that. I completely forgot that the stock linkage you do have to remove the roll pin. I rebuilt my shift linkage so it now bolts on lol. Sorry about that.
 

jonnyblazex

New Member
Update on the progress :::::: I have gotten the transmission removed, clutch and flywheel removed. The flywheel was blue and glazed all the way around, and I didnt hesitate to drop it off at the machine shop. I should get it back by wedensday. I did f' up on the shift linkage in the front. I stared hitting the roll pin, then hit a little harder, and my punch got stuck. Next i proceeded to break the tip of the punch off in the pin, the tried hitting it a little more to really hopeng to get it out, and now she is deffinatly not budging. I was cussing and swearing and feeling like an idiot about it, but I managed to un bolt the rear of the linkage, and bring the whole rod out with the transmission. Is it a big deal that the pin is stuck in there? I dont know what I am going to do to get it out, but hopefully it wont be a problem. The other thing I noticed was that there was anti freeze around the oil pan gasket. I was planning to change out the oil pan gasket while I am down there anyway, but was wondering why it was there, or other things to look for? Im thinking possibly it was spilled, and ran down there. Do you have to remove the elbow shaped exhaust piece coming from the header to get the oil pan off? Thanks a lot guys for all the advice so far, and I found it very helpful. The Haynes manual for this car really sucks at certain times.... I hope to get this thing on the road soon, and will be working on it again this weekend!
 

Prozon

Kris
The downpipe should be removed to remove the oil pan, if anything just to make it easier to access. If I were you i'd try to knock out the roll pin the other way, or drill it out and put a bolt through the hole.
 

jonnyblazex

New Member
I remembered a question I forgot to ask. I went to drain the transaxle oil, and accidently took out the wrong cap bolt - the 1/2 inch drive one on the smaller part coming off the transmission closest to the right side. A little oil came out, and at first I thought the trans was that low - but then I found the correct 3/8 cap, removed that, and at least 2 quarts came out. My question is - am I supposed to fill the outer portion of the tranny as well, as it looks like there is an upper and lower cap/bolt? Or do I just fill the transaxle like you normally would, and no oil goes into the other part? Sorry guys, I looked in my manual and couldnt find anything about it. I have worked for a number of years on motorcycles and atv's and am pretty good at working on them, but not a whole lot on these cars. Its a whole new world. Please bare with me, and I will try my best to get the hang of it. Thanks!
 

Prozon

Kris
As far as i'm aware there's only one spot to fill from. I sure hope so because after my rebuild I only filled it in one spot lol.
 

jonnyblazex

New Member
Ok guys, I had the flywheel re-surfaced, got it and the clutch kit installed, and transmission installed. I went to take the car for a spin, and realized right off the bat one problem - If I hold the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, it makes a strange sound, like a squeaking sound, and am unable to put the car in gear. If I let the peddal off the floor about 1/4 to 1/2 inch, the sound stops, and slides right into gear like it should. Is it possible for it to release too far? Thats what it seems like its doing. I adjusted the pedal when I first got the car, and before I installed the new clutch components. In the manual it tells you that the pedal should be 7 inches from the floor. I measured it, and it was around 6 when I first checked it, so I adjusted the pedal to sit at 7 like the manual tells. Is this not necessary, and could the clutch pedal being too high cause a problem when pushing the pedal all the way to the floor? I know the cable is not too tight the way it is now, there is at lease 1/4 inch play at the end where it connects to the arm. I was able to take the car for a drive by not pushing the pedal all the way down, and got it up to speeds and everything seemed fine on the short drive. Please let me know if anyone has any ideas. The car is at the farm, so I wont be able to go there and do any work on it for a few days, and was hopeing for some more great input. Thanks!
 
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