Q's about my GS-R.. newb to the GS-R

iNOhc

Super Registered User
i used to drive a DA9.. buh when i lived with my mom.. she towed it away :cry: .. her reason: blown head gasket and radiator :shock: .. so to piss her off i recently purchased a '94 GS-R :D .. it's my first V-TEC car.. okay and here are the questions..

1. the CV boot ripped... and ppl are telling me to replace both of em.. is that needed?..

2. and the GS-R has ROTA Group N's on it.. and i was wondering if the honda center caps would fit in them?...

3. since this is my FIRST V-TEC car.. i was wondering.. how hard V-TEC is spose to hit?!.. and how can i make it hit harder?.. like.. "neck breaking action" hard.. LOL!

4. any sugestions and comments are welcome.. i jus wanna tear up some honda haters..


THNX!!
 

Sirfallsalot243

New Member
iNOhc said:
i used to drive a DA9.. buh when i lived with my mom.. she towed it away :cry: .. her reason: blown head gasket and radiator :shock: .. so to piss her off i recently purchased a '94 GS-R :D .. it's my first V-TEC car.. okay and here are the questions..

1. the CV boot ripped... and ppl are telling me to replace both of em.. is that needed?..

2. and the GS-R has ROTA Group N's on it.. and i was wondering if the honda center caps would fit in them?...

3. since this is my FIRST V-TEC car.. i was wondering.. how hard V-TEC is spose to hit?!.. and how can i make it hit harder?.. like.. "neck breaking action" hard.. LOL!

4. any sugestions and comments are welcome.. i jus wanna tear up some honda haters..


THNX!!
Click to expand...
1. If the CV boot is ripped, just go ahead and replace the whole axle. Just the ripped one, replacing both isnt nessecary. It is also easier and (a lot of times) cheaper to replace the whole axle rather than just the CV boot, since changing a boot on our axles is a bitch and a half.

2. The Honda centercaps will probably not fit on the rotas. Im about 95% sure of this.

3. The B18C1 was designed to make the vtec changeover as smooth as possible. In a stock engine such as yours, VTEC is more "heard" than felt. Basic bolt ons like an intake, header, catback, cams, and a single stage intake manifold would make this changeover more pronounced, as well as providing more power through the entire RPM powerband. As it sits, your GSR has a two stage intake manifold, that acts as kind of a "two stage vtec." At 4400rpm, your vtec crossover begins, switching to the larger cam profiles. Then at 5750rpm, the butterflys open in your intake manifold, utilizing the shorter runners for better high end power. While you have been in VTEC since 4400rpm, the changeover at 5750 is the most pronounced. When modifying your engine, I would hold off on replacing the intake manifold until you have completed all other bolt ons, and have some form of aftermarket cams in there.
 

iNOhc

Super Registered User
Sirfallsalot243 said:
1. If the CV boot is ripped, just go ahead and replace the whole axle. Just the ripped one, replacing both isnt nessecary. It is also easier and (a lot of times) cheaper to replace the whole axle rather than just the CV boot, since changing a boot on our axles is a bitch and a half.

2. The Honda centercaps will probably not fit on the rotas. Im about 95% sure of this.

3. The B18C1 was designed to make the vtec changeover as smooth as possible. In a stock engine such as yours, VTEC is more "heard" than felt. Basic bolt ons like an intake, header, catback, cams, and a single stage intake manifold would make this changeover more pronounced, as well as providing more power through the entire RPM powerband. As it sits, your GSR has a two stage intake manifold, that acts as kind of a "two stage vtec." At 4400rpm, your vtec crossover begins, switching to the larger cam profiles. Then at 5750rpm, the butterflys open in your intake manifold, utilizing the shorter runners for better high end power. While you have been in VTEC since 4400rpm, the changeover at 5750 is the most pronounced. When modifying your engine, I would hold off on replacing the intake manifold until you have completed all other bolt ons, and have some form of aftermarket cams in there.
Click to expand...
thanks!!!!.. oh i forgot to mention.. the GS-R has Apexi Street Exhaust and AEM short ram intake...
 

graveyardhippie

New Member
and just fyi, i use autozone b/c of lifetime warranty, and they usually are about 75 bux for an axle.... but if you ever get really beefy power,say 500whp, they wont hold up.
 


iNOhc

Super Registered User
yea i've heard bout the autozone axels.. okay now i have a new question.. is it gonna be a hard job?...
 

Sirfallsalot243

New Member
Changing an axle isnt that difficult, but its time consuming and physically laborous if you dont have an air compressor. Heres the berif run through:

1. Jack up car and remove wheel
2. Remove the axle bolt. This is the big friggin bolt sitting right there, you cant miss it. I think its like 22-23mm. You will need at LEAST a breaker bar, if not a pipe to get it off. Ive had trouble getting them off with impact guns.
3. Remove the bolts around the knuckle, and hammer the lower control arm out. Hit it down, and it should drop out if you removed the bolt holding it on.
4. Pull the axle out and around the knuckle.
5. Pop the axle out of the transmission using a flathead screwdriver or small crowbar. Dont be shy, it needs a good "pop" to get it out.
6. Reinstall new axle, and put everything back together. Be sure to torque that axle bolt down hard.
 

iNOhc

Super Registered User
good stuff.. will do!

thankz
 


8urcivic

ONLY couches pull out!!!!
Sirfallsalot243 said:
.
Basic bolt ons like an intake, header, catback, cams, and a single stage intake manifold .
Click to expand...
when did cams become basic bolt ons?
 

graveyardhippie

New Member
Sirfallsalot243 said:
Changing an axle isnt that difficult, but its time consuming and physically laborous if you dont have an air compressor. Heres the berif run through:

1. Jack up car and remove wheel
2. Remove the axle bolt. This is the big friggin bolt sitting right there, you cant miss it. I think its like 22-23mm. You will need at LEAST a breaker bar, if not a pipe to get it off. Ive had trouble getting them off with impact guns.
3. Remove the bolts around the knuckle, and hammer the lower control arm out. Hit it down, and it should drop out if you removed the bolt holding it on.
4. Pull the axle out and around the knuckle.
5. Pop the axle out of the transmission using a flathead screwdriver or small crowbar. Dont be shy, it needs a good "pop" to get it out.
6. Reinstall new axle, and put everything back together. Be sure to torque that axle bolt down hard.
Click to expand...

i use a pitman arm puller for part 3 so i dont mushroom the bolt
 
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