Good to know and I'm in the same boat. If I do switch back to the LS OBD2 ECU from my OBD1 B16 Auto ECU will I get CEL light because of VTEC engagment?
To be honest, I'm not sure. I don't have much experience with vtec swaps. Not sure how the non-vtec comp would react when vtec hits. Sorry
Thanks for the info man, really helped. You said you had to change your stock injectors?
My cousin was trying to talk me out of it and he also said that I wouldn't need it for turbo because they can just tune my obd2 ecu, which I thought they couldnt? Also he said I'd always have a CEL?
No problem man.
Yes, along with the comp swap, I also have to swap out my 725cc injectors back to the stock ones. Then allow my comp to go through it's readiness checks/emmissions checks before I take it to get tested. In my case, I gotta be careful not to go into boost after I swap out because my obd2 comp will throw codes. Go to emissions with CEL codes in MD and you will automatically fail. I went and bought my own code scanner that I can use to check my emissions status and CEL codes at any point to make sure I'm good. It will also check to make sure the comp has gone through all of it's checks. Again, in MD if you go get tested for emissions and your readiness checks haven't completed they will not pass you. You'll have to drive around enough for all checks to complete then go back. The scanner I got can also erase whatever CEL codes are stored in your computer. Only issue there is that once you clear the CEL codes, the readiness checks need to be performed again.
This is the scanner I have. It's made by Equus. Model 3110 I believe.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_7dcqqhSJzS0/Sq5NPLciqLI/AAAAAAAAAGU/c_BZ2cv7V8g/s800/Equus-3100-Innova-CanOBD2.jpg
You're cousin is right, but wrong. Technically, you can use piggyback systems (i.e. A'pexi VAFC2) to "trick" obd2 comps into thinking they are reading certain readings, that way they adjust the ratios to accomplish what you want. You can also adjust vtec engagement points. However, this is a rather poor way to "tune" safely and thoroughly. Especially if you plan to boost. If you plan to boost eventually, I would
highly suggest converting to obd1 and investing in a stand alone engine management system like Hondata, Chrome, etc. They allow for much greater flexibility when updating parameters, tuning forced induction, data logging, engine protection settings, etc.
I went with Hondata S300 and it's perfect for my needs.
Most cars produced after 1996 have obdII comps due to new government regulations on emissions. When you go to get you emissions done, they will determine that due to the year of your car, they should be able to simply plug into your obdii port and read the computer. If they can't, 99% of the time they will fail you. You then have several options. In MD, if you spend up to $450 on emission related repairs and it still doesn't fix the problem, you can get a two year extension. However, you will need receipts as proof. If you're lucky, you may get someone cool at the emissions station who doesn't care and will pass you anyway but don't count on it. Best bet is just to swap back and pass, then swap again.
All this being said, I wouldn't make the deal. Doesn't sound like it's getting you anywhere at the point you're at. If you don't like the hood, sell it and throw the oem one back on. Keep the cash to work toward your longterm goals, whether it's an LS/vtec swap or boost, etc.
Sorry so lengthy, but hope it helps....
