Poor Man's Type-R...

s1mpsons

New Member
Hi Everyone,

I am new to clubintegra. I joined because I am looking for one of two things.

1. 98-01 ITR

2. Poor man's Type-R

Now, before anyone says "if you have the money to buy the ITR, but it!" let me just say I want this car to be a track star. And anyone who has been to the track knows you have to be pretty much willing to wreck the car to be able to get the fastest time out of it. Now I am not reckless and I would never intentionally wreck my track car, but it IS a risk. The few times I have tracked my STI, I felt I couldn't go all out. I maybe went 85%. Also, tracking a heavy car like an STI kills wear items like no other. After a day at the track I need new tires, brake pads and rotors. These parts wear much slower and are much more expensive than for cars like integras, miatas, and other small cars. Because of all this, I think a poor man's type-R is best for me.

So I ask you, the clubintergra community, what needs to be done to make a base intergra (is 94 the lightest year?) mechanically equal too or better than an ITR. I am really counting on you suspension and engine gurus to fill me in on key ITR changes over the base integra's platform. Here's what I was thinking:

Motor choices:
Type-R or ????

Transmission:
Type-R or Non-Type-R + LSD

Suspension:
I'm think Koni/GC setup, cheap and effective.

Weight reduction:
-rear seats
-carpeting
-trunk panels and carpeting
-door panels
-2 Recaro (JDM??) Type-R seats

Thanks for your help!

-Jake
 
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DailyDB8

>>>Honda Enthusiast<<<
94 RS 2dr, would be the best poor mans type r. why a 94? cause OBD1 kicks ass, less o2 sensors and less limitations. this is only in the 94-96 models. why a RS? its the lightest model integra.

as far as motor wise, of course everyone is gonna tell you to get a k20... but that shit is VERY expensive, but lots of potnetial and power that is still untapped... and thats jus all motor. imagine forced induction. then there's aways your LS vtec.... b20 vtec... b18c5 is sorta old news and overated. its a nice stock motor and all.... but for the price you can build a better one.

suspension wise... type r has 5 lug 5x114 [ something like that instead of the stock 4x100 ] with bigger rotors and better grip calipers... but for the money in the 5 lug conversion.... you might as well get a big brake kit or something, or upgrade the caliper and rotor with the 4x100. and STAY AWAY FROM ROTAS wheels and other immatations.

as far as what kind of suspension... it really depends on the driver. each one has their own preference. but a full coilover setup is good. makes the ride feel stiffer and solid. then there's upgrading your sway bars... strut bars... monkey bars... lol.

btw whats your budget?
 
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s1mpsons

New Member
94 RS 2dr, would be the best poor mans type r. why a 94? cause OBD1 kicks ass, less o2 sensors and less limitations. this is only in the 94-96 models. why a RS? its the lightest model integra.
At least I got that right. Haha. Question tho, is a OBD2 motor (like a type r) compatible with a OBD1 car?

as far as motor wise, of course everyone is gonna tell you to get a k20... but that shit is VERY expensive, but lots of potnetial and power that is still untapped... and thats jus all motor. imagine forced induction. then there's aways your LS vtec.... b20 vtec... b18c5 is sorta old news and overated. its a nice stock motor and all.... but for the price you can build a better one.
I am not looking to build a motor, really. I like the idea of a stock motor, especially the Type-R motor. Capable and reliable. However, if a LS/VTEC offers better performance, reliability, for less money, then I am interested. Is this the case? Price comparison?
Also, what transmission is best? I definitely need a LSD. What options are there other then the Type-R? If I use something else, are there any differences in gear ratios or reliability?

suspension wise... type r has 5 lug 5x114 [ something like that instead of the stock 4x100 ] with bigger rotors and better grip calipers... but for the money in the 5 lug conversion.... you might as well get a big brake kit or something, or upgrade the caliper and rotor with the 4x100....as far as what kind of suspension... it really depends on the driver. each one has their own preference. but a full coilover setup is good. makes the ride feel stiffer and solid. then there's upgrading your sway bars... strut bars... monkey bars... lol.
My STI is 04 with 5x100 and 05+ is 5x114.3. 5x114.3 is far superior!!! I think for a track application, 5x114.3 is appropriate. How much will a 5 lug conversion (w/ OEM ITR brakes) run me? Seems like this could be a big ticket item. Does it require axles? Suspension arms? etc...? Has anyone done such a build (RS/Type-R Time Attack Car) on these boards who I can PM?

btw whats your budget?
I am not really limited by funds, per say, just the fact that I wouldn't want to crash a car worth more than $5000.
 

s1mpsons

New Member
Should I also have my eye out for an older LS. Then just do serious weight reduction, VTEC head, LSD, and suspension (gc/koni + 5 lug)?
 


99jdmgsr

New Member
i would lok for a integra rs cuz it has no sunroof no ac no power locks.. get that gut the shit out of it.. and i would do a lsvtec with turbo.. and 5 lug conversion.................
 

s1mpsons

New Member
i would lok for a integra rs cuz it has no sunroof no ac no power locks.. get that gut the shit out of it.. and i would do a lsvtec with turbo.. and 5 lug conversion.................
No turbo tho.

How much is a good condition ls/vtec?
 

JimmyRos.

07 BMW 328Xi
No turbo tho.

How much is a good condition ls/vtec?
the quality of a ls/vtec build corresponds to the effort of tuning. i mean you can probably find some cheaper than others but may not last as long. this topic isnt really something i've looked into considering i alrdy have VTEC! :lol: but g/l finding out your plans.
 


s1mpsons

New Member
OK, scratch the LS/VTEC. I'd actually rather keep a non hybrid motor in the car and not have to worry about tuning.
 

JimmyRos.

07 BMW 328Xi
then K20 it is! it'll cost a pretty penny but you'll cut down on labor cost if you do it yourself. there's "Josh" (actual username) on this site that has done it.

im pretty sure you'll love it considering it will take an ITR.
 

K. Legaspi

You Buggin' Out
If you want a poor mans Type-R then I'd suggest, as everyone has said, an RS. No Sun Roof, ABS, etc.

For the motor, GSR Block with a B16 Head. (Please Correct if Wrong).

Suspension: 5 or 4x114 Lug Pattern. And I know from your other thread that you're a circuit track nut so, If I were you I'd get PIC Coilovers with a 10k Front 12K Rear Spring Rates. But that's just me. Get an ITR 22mm or 23 mm Sway Bar with new bushings and stuff.

But those are what I think you should do for a Poor Man's Type-R
 

99jdmgsr

New Member
actually i dont like the lsvtec i drove one and it feels kinda like a reguler ls till vtec kicks in than its fast but i wouldent want it i would go with the k20a
 

JimmyRos.

07 BMW 328Xi
just to clear things up. if you werent aware. the b16 has the the same head casting as the ITR but both have two completely different stock internals.
 

s1mpsons

New Member
How close would a B18 GSR motor with a B16 head be to a Type R? What would still be different (motor-wise)?

Also, what's the best lsd alternative to a type-r trans? GSR trans with a quaiff? 1.5 way?
 

JDMxDB8

Raceline USA
How close would a B18 GSR motor with a B16 head be to a Type R? What would still be different (motor-wise)?

Also, what's the best lsd alternative to a type-r trans? GSR trans with a quaiff? 1.5 way?
The crank, cams, pistons, rods, valves, etc. ITR internals exceed the GSR's.
 

Kamikaze™

Blk Dude™
I'd say for tracking and getting best times without very long straights would be a b16 tranny with a LSD. That way you get short gears, and you get the LSD to get you around corners and off the start line a little better than the stock differential. As far as the weight issue I'm with the 2nd poster, go with a 94 2-door RS. If money isn't a big concern without spending too much, I would say a B20-Vtec would be a better bet than any other non vtec bottom end with a vtec head. I've seen threads on other forums of them getting close to 300whp N/A... Just my .02
 
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