Oil in the cylinder or valves off?

[enoch723]

So I did the adjustment today what I would consider perfectly to spec. I rotated the crank till it was at tdc and would adjust and turn it and adjust the next ones.. so on and so forth. I triple checked all of them to make sure and I still am not getting any kind of combustion fro number 4. No matter what, when I pull the number 4 spark plug wire off it sounds exactly the same.

 

[Muckman]

What was the order you adjusted the valves in?

 

[enoch723]

Starting at tdc and whatever ones came along that were closed.

 

[Muckman]

You're very vague which is not confidence inspiring. The order should be 1,3,4,2
With the cam lobes facing away from the rockers. Rockers shouldn't be depressed at all.

If you had a $20 compression tester you could easily confirm if you had your valve lash correctly.
Too tight and the valve will not fully close, making very low compression and running on 3 cylinders like you are describing.

 

[Nick_C78]

What kind of feeler gauge are you using and does it read in mm or inches? Make sure you aren't mixing up the two... lol

But yeah man, compression test that sucker.

 

[enoch723]

Yeah I made sure the lobes were pointed up and away from the valves. I didnt keep track of what order but Im fairly sure I actually started at 3 and it went 3,4,2,1. Should it make that much of a difference that it wont fire at all? The valve lash shoould still be the same shouldnt it?

 

[enoch723]

What kind of feeler gauge are you using and does it read in mm or inches? Make sure you aren't mixing up the two... lol

But yeah man, compression test that sucker.

I just checked to be sure and its in mm

 

[Nick_C78]

I thought you said you started at TDC...why did you start at 3 then?

 

[enoch723]

Good point. Lol. like I said, I didnt keep track of the order but 3421 sounds how I did it cause I checked so many times. I know I started at tdc though

 

[enoch723]

So I was able to do a compression test today while the weather cleared up a little.

------1---- 2----3 ---4
-dry 145 155 45 0
wet 150 155 85 0

So The main reason I bring it up is I found the problem. When I was doing the wet test for cylinder 4 I used an old piece of fuel injector hose to let the oil down. Because of how round the hose was I would have to blow in the hose so the oil would actually get into the cylinder. When I pulled the hose out there was milk on it. Safe to say the head gasket blew?

The is no oil on the dipstick though at all. Good clean oil

My other question is do you guys think Its worth changing the head gasket? I am worried mainly about the piston rings. Cylinder 3 didnt have any milk in it that I could tell anyways

 

[Muckman]

A blown head gasket would not cause ZERO compression in a cylinder unless there was a gapping hole in it, in which case youd know before this fiasco started. I'd say this is from the valve adjustment you did. Its acting like the valves are always open on #4 or you have a bent valve.

Did you do the valve job like this?
[YOUTUBE="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-G_Nq2orpfo"]Integra B18 valve adjustment[/YOUTUBE]

Order: 1,3,2,4

 

[enoch723]

Yes. I realize I should have some kind of compression and planned on redoing the valves at the .007 like it was supposed to have and redoing the test to see if it gets some kind of compression then.

My main concern was the milk in the cylinder.. I didnt see any on the dipstick and I didnt see any in cylinder 3. But there was quite a lot in cylinder 4.

 

[Muckman]

Milk sounds like head gasket. But if all the compression was going out the head gasket your see major overflow into the radiator. Did you do a compression test before you started all this?

 

[enoch723]

No I didnt. I think what happened was because I put the valves at the standard for a brown top it was just slowly building pressure. The standard was .004 intake and .005 exhaust. But I have zc cams which are more lift and duration. Valve lash for zc cams is .007 intake and exhaust. Not a big difference between the two but enough for it to probably blow through the cylinders and possibly bend a valve. Bent valve would explain no compression and the milk would explain why number 4 isnt firing.

What Im going to do is try to push the valves close if I can and try to do another compression test. If it even moves then obviously they are getting stuck open.

 

[Muckman]

The cams for sake of this discussion do not impact your valve lash. Valve lash is set when the cam lobes are away from the rocker. Think of it lash as your cam "idle" clearance when its not pushing the valve open. Therefore the cam profile is irrelevant.

And no stock cams would not have bent valves. No factory cam has enough lift and duration to push valves together. Not even close. The exception would be if you had the cam gears cocked and they were not aligned parrellel to each other.

Bad head gasket could explain the milky residue in the #4 cylinder.
But not the zero compression. - Unless there was a giant hole in the head gasket to #3.

Buy or borrow a leak down tester. They are $75 from SummitRacing.
Pull the cams out so all valves are completely shut and pressure test each cylinder.
This will eliminate the valve lash from the equation.
It will show you if you have a bent valve (youll hear air coming from the intake or exhaust port)
Or if you have a bad head gasket youll see air bubbles in your radiator fill cap.

There are very few things that would cause zero compression. Open vales is the only realistic answer. Its either bent and stuck open or the lash is too tight causing the valve to never close. Figure it out!