My 94 Sedan Build-Up - Lots of Pics = ) [ Updated Constantly... So Stay TUNED!!! ]
- Thread starter DailyDB8
- Start date
DailyDB8
>>>Honda Enthusiast<<<
haha yea i exaggerated when i said seconds... but it got sold quick tho. i probably woulda bought it if i looked at it long enough.
this is how i saw it... "oh shit a ukdm itr cluster... oh shit its only $250..... oh shit gt3teg spent $350 so i'll save $100.... OH SHIT... SAVE SAVE SAVE!... BUY BUY BUY!" :lol:
so how much is it gonna cost you to fix sensor?
this is how i saw it... "oh shit a ukdm itr cluster... oh shit its only $250..... oh shit gt3teg spent $350 so i'll save $100.... OH SHIT... SAVE SAVE SAVE!... BUY BUY BUY!" :lol:
so how much is it gonna cost you to fix sensor?
JDMxDB8
Raceline USA
I'm thinking of going Skunk2 as well. Heard nothing but good things about their cams.:thumbs upDailyDrivenDB8 said:most likely skunk2, been buying their products since i had my civic... haven't failed me yet. originally wanted the ctr intake cam but its hard to find someone selling the intake shaft only. so the skunk2 intake manifold... maybe the old style cause it looks OEM... or pro-series... but thats more bling. stage 1 cams for daily driven with a kick. and maybe the vtec solenoid that says... "SKUNK2 INSIDE"
DailyDB8
>>>Honda Enthusiast<<<
just installed the 98+ brake booster + mc yesterday. turned out there need to be some fabrication involved. turns out one of the fittings on the 98+ booster + mc had a 3/16 female fitting, and the 94-97 hardline was 3/8 or something. was stuck at pepboys for a good 2 hours.... stupid workers told me to "guess" the right size... i got pissed and opened every box and test fit it... rofl.
wasn't able to find the correct fitting with the correct threading.... so we bought a short hardline that had fittings on it... only to use the fitting. so what was supposed to be a 45 min job... turned in to a all nighter all most.
i didn't snap pics of the install, cause i had it done at a friends house with his help... but i'll snap some pics of the tools and parts. plus i didn't install my 3pt carbing yet, which i'll do in the next few minutes.
wasn't able to find the correct fitting with the correct threading.... so we bought a short hardline that had fittings on it... only to use the fitting. so what was supposed to be a 45 min job... turned in to a all nighter all most.
i didn't snap pics of the install, cause i had it done at a friends house with his help... but i'll snap some pics of the tools and parts. plus i didn't install my 3pt carbing yet, which i'll do in the next few minutes.
DailyDB8
>>>Honda Enthusiast<<<
UPDATE: 5/15/07
the carbing strut install was very simple and straight forward. didn't take longer than 20 mins. jack up the car, unbolt the suspension from the top of the engine bay, remove the stock strut bar, and some clips / harnesses in the way. the bar literally dropped in. there's already 2 pre-drilled holes on the firewall so it was all gravy baby. you'll jus need to reroute the throlle cable bracket.
but yea, in order for the carbing 3pt strut to fit on a 94-97 you MUST convert the 97-01 brake booster + mc to a 98-01 brake booster + mc. you'll also need to cut one of the hardlines and fit a 3/16 fitting and use a double flare tool to flare the hardline. the other hardline you'll need to bend it cause the new one is at a different angle, be careful not to damage the hardline.
here's the differences.
94-01
97-01 booster + mc
the reason why carbing state that it fits for 97-01 integras only. i had to find out the hard way... :???:
the larger size fitting on the 94-97 master cylinder compared to the 3/16 on the new one. btw the other fitting on the mc is 3/16... so wtf was honda thinking making 2 different size fittings on the same mc?... this made us stuck at pepboys for nearly 2 hours with dumbass workers.
the tool that you'll need to flare the hardline once you cut the hardline to remove the old fitting and replaced with a 3/16 fitting. this tool will flake the hardline so the fitting cant come off and it postions it on the master cylinder
after it was all done, and you can still use your stock strut bar! :twisted:
took it for a test drive and there's a noticable difference in handling and steering. better respsonse and handling in the corners. the rear end felt a bit unstable... like its causing me to turn more... is that called over steer? it might be because of rims / tires are a bit cambered. i'll need to install the front and rear camber kits and do an allignment. i wanna try out the comptech rear sway kit next 8)
the carbing strut install was very simple and straight forward. didn't take longer than 20 mins. jack up the car, unbolt the suspension from the top of the engine bay, remove the stock strut bar, and some clips / harnesses in the way. the bar literally dropped in. there's already 2 pre-drilled holes on the firewall so it was all gravy baby. you'll jus need to reroute the throlle cable bracket.
but yea, in order for the carbing 3pt strut to fit on a 94-97 you MUST convert the 97-01 brake booster + mc to a 98-01 brake booster + mc. you'll also need to cut one of the hardlines and fit a 3/16 fitting and use a double flare tool to flare the hardline. the other hardline you'll need to bend it cause the new one is at a different angle, be careful not to damage the hardline.
here's the differences.
94-01
97-01 booster + mc
the reason why carbing state that it fits for 97-01 integras only. i had to find out the hard way... :???:
the larger size fitting on the 94-97 master cylinder compared to the 3/16 on the new one. btw the other fitting on the mc is 3/16... so wtf was honda thinking making 2 different size fittings on the same mc?... this made us stuck at pepboys for nearly 2 hours with dumbass workers.
the tool that you'll need to flare the hardline once you cut the hardline to remove the old fitting and replaced with a 3/16 fitting. this tool will flake the hardline so the fitting cant come off and it postions it on the master cylinder
after it was all done, and you can still use your stock strut bar! :twisted:
took it for a test drive and there's a noticable difference in handling and steering. better respsonse and handling in the corners. the rear end felt a bit unstable... like its causing me to turn more... is that called over steer? it might be because of rims / tires are a bit cambered. i'll need to install the front and rear camber kits and do an allignment. i wanna try out the comptech rear sway kit next 8)
Last edited: