Mirrorimg's build thread

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
So I have a little update. I wanted to get my wheel bearing done today, so I pulled out my breaker bar, and had no luck what-so-ever. I decided that since I still needed to get my A/C recharged, they could loosen the nut for me so I could get to work on it at home.

The guy said that since they would not be performing the work, and tightening the nut to spec afterwards, he could not loosen it for liability issues. Nothing wrong with that. I went out and got a 4ft pipe from home depot ($18) while my car was in the shop, awaiting the call to pick it up. My family wanted to go out to eat, so we stopped by to let the guys know to lock the key in the car and I would get it after dinner.

When I got there, they had it running in the bay with the hood popped, just finishing up. The tech asked me if I knew my belt was off, because when he checked the air temp, it wasnt blowing cold. I knew it was off (I never put it on after my engine rebuild). He then went ahead and complimented my car. I was so stoked ;) He mentioned he has seen and worked on many hondas over the years, but this one was done right and looks amazing. I was sure as hell grinning ear to ear.

When I got home after dinner I pulled the pole out, put the socket on, and crack, the nut snapped free from its death grip. I will be able to bring the hub in to get the bearing pressed in and out tomorrow.



As I have said, I picked up a couple things, and here are my pictures :) I need to snap one of the sunroof button, sucker looks awesome.
The climate control with missing speed control module. Had to use mine.



And my eBay blach shift knob. I put in the center console today, so she looks complete. Theres a few more things I need to put in, like the kick panels,clock, and some plastic covers.
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Heres the Sunroof button, and an inline fuse terminal (XScorpion) with a bit of 4ga wire on it. I got it to update my alternator wire, but the wire and fuses I purchased from KnuKonceptz hasn't arrived.

I paid via paypal on the 18th, and havent seen any packages. I emailed them yesterday, logged into their website to see they did not have any record of my purchase in my recent transactions log. I am severely disappointed. I am waiting on a response to see what I will do next. If they cant ship and it get delivered next week, I am asking for a refund.


 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
I snapped the slider on the heat control because I didnt put the cable into the little snap that holds it at the heater lever.

the heater valve was fully opened when the slider was 3/4 of the way there, and I kept pushing. I dont know if there is a way to get the slider knob out, but Im not getting rid of this one in case I can or if I ever need to use it for parts.
 


mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Samurai_Blue said:
damn dude! you should have hollad! i had one for ya
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lol. I will give you a call when I incredible hulk the next climate control ;)

I was bidding on a few at the same time. This one was just the part you see, no vents or surround. It was $30 shipped. Not too bad. Another I was bidding on went for about $50 shipped, and a type r climate control went for $65ish. I woulda loved to get the type r one, but it would have sat on the shelf until I sourced other parts, or got a black dash.

I did scout some DB8-R interior parts. A window control was going for $90... lol.
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
damn.... i would have given you mine for $10 and shipping lol . Im gonna convert mine to amber for like 20$.
 


mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Samurai_Blue said:
damn.... i would have given you mine for $10 and shipping lol . Im gonna convert mine to amber for like 20$.
Click to expand...
Let me know how that goes. I need to take this one out and switch 2 of the bulbs because they are blown. From my conversation with another member, there are LEDs inside that I believe light up the little slit green, while the larger bulbs illuminate the faces of the buttons and the numbers/temperature display.
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
DID SOME WORK TODAY!
Finally fixed my wheel bearing. Shit sounds smooth now, no whirring, defeating the purpose of my dynamat.

This is the story of how it went:

I woke up bright and early at 10AM. I didnt get out of bed until 11AM. I went downstairs, took some allergy medicine, my previous days medicine was wearing off, and I needed another dosage. It wasnt for a few hours that I was at full strength. I ate my grilled ham and cheese and opened the garage. Ahhh, time to get to work.

I had broken my axle nut free the previous night, with my 4 ft pole I purchased at home depot. It was a cinch. I loosened my lug nuts, jacked the front end up, and unbolted my caliper. I did not remove the brake line, as I didnt want to have to bleed the system, so I set in on a box. Took off my rotor, and popped the ball joints free.





I took the whole knuckle with hub assembly to a shop, merchants tire, where I had my AC serviced and where I normally go for flats. The guy the other day told me they could help me out, but the tech told me it would be $95. ABSURD! The worker with the tech said it wasnt a in an out job, that it would take an hour to press the hub out. Bull shit, I wasnt born yesterday. I obviously have the technical know-how to get the knuckle off of my car and tot he shop, you dont think I know how a damned press works? I told them I would come back if I didnt find a better deal. I called another shop, they said $125. WTF!? I went home to do some more disassembly myself.

I hammered the hub out, then pounded on the wheel bearing until it came out. I removed the l lower ball joint because it was shot. I took it back and renegotiated. This is the conversation I had:

Me: "Id like to renegotiate the price with you" (sets the bare knuckle on the counter)
Tech: (chuckles) "Well if you got it out why didnt you put the new one in?"
Me: "Well I would rather have the new one pressed in properly instead of me beating it in with a hammer"
Tech: "I understand, How much cash do you have on you?"
Me: "I have $40, but Id like to get it done for $30"
Tech: "Man you;re busting my balls. Tell you what, you give the guy $20 and we're good."
Me: "Sounds good to me"

So what was originally $95, cost me 1.5 hours and $20. I like that deal.

Heres the ball joint boot damage. This is what keyed me in on getting a replacement, little did I know it would be a $50 ball joint replacement...

And my tools to get it out

Heres the old bearing and hub. I had more work to do on the hub, because a portion of the wheel bearing stayed on it. More on this later.

And the new bearing in


On the way home I picked up a ball joint press tool.


I dont have any assembly pics with it, as I had my dad helping. The first ball joint was a sham. The fitting I used ended up crushing the threaded portion after a couple turns. I didnt realize I had to put on an added spacer after a couple turns. $25 into the trash. Should have realized there was an issue when we put the 4ft extension to make most of the turns...

The second one went in nicely.



While my father was picking up a second ball joint, I had to slowely hammer/pry off the inner bearing race stuck on the hub. That was a complete pain in the ass... :(

And here she is all put together. Or is she?


Nope, I forgot to put the damn dust shield back on.


I ended up notching the dust shield to slide it around the hub, but ended up taking the hub out anyways because I forgot the lock ring to keep the hub from falling out :oops:

There was a bit of play in the hub, and it scared me a bit, but after putting the axle nut on and tightening it down, she was smooth as a whistle. Took her for a spin, and no more whirring noise!!!! Now my sound deadening can actually be useful.
 
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mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Always do :)

As of now, all of my regular maintenance is done. I don't have any other pending things to do maintenance wise, except hooking my AC belt back up, and oil changes when I need to.

I dont have a real game plan going forward. I am picking up a P8R head, the best flowing non-vtec head, tomorrow. It will be the part I will be spending money on with the expectation of bolting it to my block in a few months. Some aggressive cams, cheap cam gears, and supporting valve train. MAYBE a port and polish, I will have to get an estimate on that.

Until then, I will be doing some other things, like finishing the sound deadening on my roof, redoing my headliner because it is sagging, and keeping her clean and waxed as often as possible. :)
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Like I said in my last post, I was picking up a B20 P8R head, which is a beefed up LS head with better flow characteristics than P75's and PR4's. It has oversized intake valves (33mm), the size of VTEC intake valves, and an 84mm combustion chamber.

I got it for $160, and I have already disassembled most of it. Took the cam caps off, the cams out, and the rockers. I will probably pop the springs and retainers out tomorrow, and drop it off to get hot tanked the day after.

This is going to be a long project, as I am not ready to dump $1000 into the head right now. As money comes in, and I put some aside for it, I will purchase parts.

What is my shopping list, you ask?
Crower 403 or Brian Crower BC0022 Cams.
Crower or Brian Crower springs and retainers
Adjustable Cam Gears
Possibly a port and polish. Not sure how much it will run me, I would expect it to be about $300.
New OEM valve seals
Have the valve guides checked for wear and replaced if necessary

And now for the pictures.








And her sister sitting off to the side
 
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