JL Audio Subs - 10" or 12"

g3teg97

Super Moderator
I've been looking into some different subs and amps recently. My buddy just got a system in his Jeep. I think it's a couple 10s, but it sounds real good. I want to get something that sounds good, hits hard, looks clean, and won't screw up or screw anything else up.



I think I'm going to go with JL Audio for a couple reasons. First, I think they look the best in their sub and amp design by far than any other company out there. Secondly, I believe that they're one of the best in the business (Hopefully some of you guys can give me feedback on them :thumbup:).


What I Want:
Like I stated earlier, something clean, something that hits and something I can control the bass, etc. I'm really only looking for one sub either being a 10 inch or 12 - that doesn't matter to me. I don't want it really, really loud, but nor do I want something that is barely considered a sub.

Power / Rating Goals:
I actually don't really know what would be good for my Integra, seeing how I have never had a system in my car. I think 300 - 400 watts is a good number.

I don't know too much on this, except for the basics. For example, I don't know what omhs mean or voice coil. I hope this thread can answer my questions about this and hopefully at the same time, help out other people as well.
 

DailyDB8

>>>Honda Enthusiast<<<
you got a amp already to power the sub? cause imma recommend a mono-block amp... it will make any sub sound good :thumbup:
 

tisguy

New Member
2 10s sound clean, and it still has the potential to create an earthquake. in my experience 12s start to blur quicker at higher volumes
 


cabezzzdb8

BBS wanted
I recently added two 10s MTXs to my teg that I got for free with a Power Acoustics 5 channel amp to power all four inside speakers 100x4 and one 300 watt single channel for both subs, ive never been a fan of car sound systems but let me tell you it sounds awesome now, all inside spekers are Infinity Kappas that I had since I bought the car plus the Pioneer head and the stock tweeters, just awesome
 

ShinsenTuner

New and fresh.
I have two 12" subwoofers in mine and a four channel amp from pheonix gold... it hits really nice and never gets distorted... it's all about preference. If your just looking for decent bass just get like a single 12.
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
The voice coil is the small wire that attaches to the underside of the cone of the speaker. An electrical current is driven through the voice coil and a magnetic field is produced. This magnetic field causes the voice coil to react to the magnetic field from the magnent on the back speaker's frame, which makes the cone of the speaker move. By applying an audio wave to the voice coil, the cone reproduces the sound waves, corresponding music.

Ohms are electrical resistance and vary depending on how you wire your system and also depending on the Ohm rating of your subs. You will want to wire it to correspond with the Ohm rating from your amp. For example: My friend has 3 JL Audio 6ohm subs. He wired the dual voice coils in parallel/parallel to get a 1ohm impendance and has it running on an amp that can hold a 1ohm stable current. Running the amp at 1ohm makes it very powerful but it requires a badass amp(i.e.$$$) to handle a 1ohm stable load. But thats just an example. There are many ways to do it. If you match and wire your amps and subs correctly it will give the cleanest sound. And JL Audio makes very good subs. I would recommend them and I also like Audiobahn. You can check this out to see how different subs and different wiring affect the ohm ratings of your particular setup.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161

PS: DVC = Dual Voice Coil
 


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TegSox

Super Duper Moderator
Are you gonna be amping your interior speakers, g3teg97? You don't want/need your sub to have so much volume you drown them out. If your not, 200-250 watts rms is a good area to be in for your sub.

10 vs. 12 depends on personal taste really. I have a 10 now, I liked the sound of 12's more. Maybe it's just because it's all I've ever owned before this 10 were 12's. I like really low bass, not the higher end bass. 10's play higher end bass cleaner and tighter than 12's, but they can't create the killer low end bass like a 12.
 

g3teg97

Super Moderator
SilverDB8 said:
you got a amp already to power the sub? cause imma recommend a mono-block amp... it will make any sub sound good :thumbup:
I don't know what a mono-block amp is so I looked it up.

http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/1/113603.html said:
A stereo amp consists of two mono amplifiers on one chasis. A monoblock just separates the two channels into separate (mono) systems. The advantage is less cross talk between channels. The disadvantage is cost.
Does this mean less interferance between the channels? What exactly is the "channel"? Where the amp supplys power to the int. speakers, then have another "channel" for the subwoofers?

Is the mono-block amp give more power? Would this be overkill for a simple, clean setup like I really want?
 

g3teg97

Super Moderator
TegSox said:
Are you gonna be amping your interior speakers, g3teg97?
I honestly don't know. I'm not sure if I can / want to. Should I?

The Front Speakers
Infinity 6010cs
6-1/2" Component Speakers System

Technical Specification
* Sensitivity: 92 dB
* RMS Power Range : 2-90 Watts
* Peak Power Handling: 270 Watts
* Frequency response: 53-21000 Hz
* Diameter: 6.5 Inch


The rear speakers:
Infinity Reference 6012i
6-1/2" 2-Way 180W Car Speakers

Technical Specification
* Sensitivity: 92 dB
* RMS Power Range : 2-60 Watts
* Peak Power Handling: 180 Watts
* Frequency response: 53-21000 Hz
* Diameter: 6.5 Inch

TegSox said:
10 vs. 12 depends on personal taste really. I have a 10 now, I liked the sound of 12's more. Maybe it's just because it's all I've ever owned before this 10 were 12's. I like really low bass, not the higher end bass. 10's play higher end bass cleaner and tighter than 12's, but they can't create the killer low end bass like a 12.
What about a good 12" with a decent amp, depending of if I should power the interior speakers by an amp. What exactly would the difference be between low bass and high bass?
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
g3teg97 said:
What exactly would the difference be between low bass and high bass?
The speakers are rated for sound frequency in Hz. THe higher the Hz (or MHz) the higher pitched the sounds, like what comes out of the tweeters. 12" inch speakers will hit lower on the scale than a 10". A 12" will be able to hit deep, low pitched bass alot better. The human ears can only hear to about 20Hz. Anything lower than that you can still feel it though
 

speedin

The Transporter
Id go fro a SEALED BOX 12. A sealed sub will sound much cleaner and crisper. But it has a little less "thump." But it is WAY worth it. I ran a 1200watt Audiobahn 12 in a sealed box in my teg, and it was more loudness then I could stand to be in their for! lol. But I got a remote bass controler and then I could make it PERFECT! But the JL's run less wattage but get more of a "thump" to them. Also they do have a lifetime warrentee :D. So id say a 12 in a sealed box with the right amp paired to the sub and a remote bass controler and call it a day. Not to mention a sealed box takes up less room. My box was accually smaller than required but still hits like a MOTHER @#$^*(. I had to get it behind the strut tower bar. Here is a shot of how it was:

Still have this in my Spyder (glad I made the box small now! lol) and when the top is closed with the windows up my top will flex in and out with the bass.

Oh and get a cap!
 
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speedin

The Transporter
dc2GS-R said:
The speakers are rated for sound frequency in Hz. THe higher the Hz (or MHz) the higher pitched the sounds, like what comes out of the tweeters. 12" inch speakers will hit lower on the scale than a 10". A 12" will be able to hit deep, low pitched bass alot better. The human ears can only hear to about 20Hz. Anything lower than that you can still feel it though
Oh I can add to that too. Yea low bass is really the only type you want. Put it this way, if you get a amp that allows you to select the frequency. Turn the HPF (High Pass Frequency) on and you will hear the voices of the music and the thumpage will go away. Then turn the LPH (Low Pass Frequency) on and thump returns, and you will hear no music/voices. A large speaker is designed to covey the LPF not the HPF. Like dc2 said the tweeters are on the opposite sprectrum of a sub because they only convey the HPF
 
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